Sights

Very little remains of ancient Alexandria, as the modern city was built directly atop the old one. The excellent Greco-Roman Museum (tel. 482 5820) gives visitors an introduction to ancient Alexandria and its Hellenistic civilization. The cult of Serapis is well exhibited: look for handsome sculptures of Zeus and Apis and for the Greek youth Harpocrates, with his finger in his ear. The museum’s courtyard contains an intriguing crocodile temple attributed to the cult of Phepheros, as well as a mummified crocodile and other assorted relics from Egypt’s Greco-Roman past. To reach the museum walk south from the corniche along Sana Zaghloul St., rum left on Al-Hurriya St., and walk until the sign for the museum directs you to the left again. (Open Sat.-Thurs. 9am-ipm, Fri. 9am-noou and 2-4pm, during Ramadan and on holidays 9am-3pm. Admission LE8. students LE4, camera privileges LEIO.)

From the museum it’s an easy meander to the three major ancient sites, all of which lie within a few km of downtown. Just north of Misr Station is the beautifully preserved, white marble Roman Amphitheater, the only one of its kind ever found in Egypt. Behind the 13-tiered theater struggle the ruins of a Roman bath (to the left) and of a Roman villa and cistern (to the right). Self styled guides may offer to sneak you in for a fee, but it’s not worth it since almost everything of interest is visible from the theater. Walk down Nabi Danial St. from Sa’ad Zaghloul Sq. and take the second left after AI-Hurriya St.; the entrance will be on your left. (Open daily 9am-4pm, during Ramadan 10am-3pm. Admission LE3, students LEI.50.)