The neighborhoods of Alexandria lying west and north of the central square reward back-street investigation. Dilapidated Al-Goumrouk and breezy Al-Anfushi are crowded with old mosques, Coptic churches, and finely decorated 19th-century buildings. The Islamic Fort Qaytbay commands the ancient island of Pharos, now the tip of the peninsula separating the eastern and western harbors. The fort symbolizes “the big one that got away"; it was built in the 15th century by the Mamluk Sultan Qaytbay over parts of the old Lighthouse of Pharos. Inside, a naval museum features an exhibition of artifacts salvaged from the sunken French fleet that was destroyed by Nelson at the Battle of the Nile. Notice the small mosque in the center of the tower; the entire fortress is aligned so that its mihrab will face Mecca. (Fort open Sat.-Thurs. 9am-4pm, Fri. 9am-noon and 2-4pm; during Ramadan 10am-2:30pm. Admission LE6, students LE3. Camera privileges LE10.)

To reach the fort, take tram #15 west from Raml Station and get off when it makes a sharp left turn. You’ll find yourself in the middle of an open-air fish market, and Io, it stinketh. At the point where the tram turned left, you should turn right on the road between the Kuwait Airlines sign and the mosque; the fort is at the end of this road. Also accessible by bus #260 to Abu Qir or minibus #707 from Raml Station Sq. (these buses take you to the end of the street, not all the way to the Fort).