Tlie Mosque of Abu al-Abbas, with its four domes and tall minarets, is located about lkm south of the fort along the comiche and is Alexandria’s most prominent and elaborate sample of Islamic architecture. The holy Abu al-Abbas came from Andalucia, Spain, and settled in the Delta. His tomb rests in the back of the mosque. Legend professes that he rose from his tomb to catch bombs falling on Alexandria during World War II raids. Until the arrival of feminism in this part of town, women are permitted to enter the back room of the mosque only. With the coffin surrounded by a glowing green neon-lithic lamp, this might actually be the most intriguing sight. (Open 5am-10pm, excepting prayer times. Dress modestly.)

Another central Alexandrian magnet, the Fine Arts Museum, at 18 Menasha St. (tel. 493 6616), contains a small but interesting collection of modem Egyptian art as well as Alexandria’s public library. From Misr Station walk east on Mahmoud Bey Salama St., which runs along the southern side of the railroad tracks. The museum is on the right at the first major intersection (about lkm; Open Sat.-Thurs. 9am-lpm and 5-8pm. Free.)

Those who plan to spend more than a day or two in Alexandria should journey at least once to the eastern beaches. This district’s highlight is Montaza Palace and Gardens (tel. 86 00 79 or 86 00 56). Formerly King Farouk’s decadent summer retreat, the huge complex includes gardens as well as beaches. The palace and its museum have been closed to the public, but the gardens and groves are open and have become a favorite picnic spot for Alexandrians. Ice cream stores, a juice place, a Pizza Hut, Chicken Tikka (a spin-off of Tikka Grill), and a supermarket lie just inside the garden gates. (Admission to the gardens LE2. Semi-private beach west of the palace I.E6.) Catch minibus #220 or 221 on the corniche or at Orabi Sq., or bus #238 from Al-Manshiya Sq. (50pt.) third-class trains to Abu Qir, departing every hour from either Misr or Sidi Gaber Station, all stop at Montaza (45pt).