This Rosetta Stone enabled Jean-Francois Champollion to unlock the mystery of the hieroglyphics, A cast of the stone (the original resides in London) describes-in Demotic (the common language), ancient Greek (the royal language), and hieroglyphics (the holy language)-the coronation and numerous titles of Pharaoh Ptolemy V. Recent excavations in this and surrounding areas have revealed Rashid (pharaonically named “Bulubatin") to be a site rich with pharaonic history. The cheapest way to get here is by the grcen-and-white local taxis (LE1-2). When tourism is down, as in summer 1993, it is risk}’ to take transport out and expect to find something coming back. A taxi will take you, wait for you to look around, and bring you back for LE5. On the other hand, the romantic way to get here is to find a willing fisherman and go by private boat (20min,, LE2 per person round-trip). You’ll see some beautiful scenery on the way.

To visit the peaceful Mosque of Abu Mandur perched on the bank of the river, catch one of the southbound taxi boats at the main dock just across from the cannon in Al-Hurriya Sq, (round-tripLE2 per person). A sandy hill near the mosque and offers a nice view of the countryside.