Hotel Ageba, Alexandria St. (tel. 93 23 34), on the west side, about 10 blocks from the Corniche. Striking lobby; rooms less so. All rooms have bath. Singles LE15. Doubles LE30.

New Lido (tel. 93 45 15), on the corniche 1 km west of Alexandria St., 1 block past the mosque. Rents 4-room flats (including kitchen, bath, and balcony) that accommodate 4 comfortably, 5-6 if yon don’t breathe, LE69 per night. The bungalows farther down the beach, with fridge and private bath, are designed for 2, for LE37 per night. Mixed gender groups should provide marriage certificates. Reservations recommended. Closed in winter.

El Dest Hotel (tel. 93 21 05), on the corner of Alexandria and Alma Rum St., just across from the Ghazala Hotel. Not exceedingly cozy, but centrally located. Clean beds, scary bathrooms. Singles LE7. Doubles LE12.

Campers have two options. You can receive permission to camp for free on the beach by the bay from the City Council (see Practical Information; the law against camping without a permit is strialy enforced) or you can take an intercity Peugeot taxi to Disney Beach (also called “Bagoush Village,” 48km west of Marsa Matrouh) and set up camp there. Disney Beach is convenient to Libya, home of the dethpica-ble Qaddaffy Duck. Call (03) 93 66 60/1/2 for information and rates.