In recent years the national government has been working overtime to make up for long years of neglect. The new road, completed in 1985, has led to an increased number of well-stocked stores and a growing stream of tourists. Universal education, a new quarry, a new desalination plant, and modern agricultural projects are altering Siwan daily life.

Regardless of other changes, the sexual conservatism of Siwa pervades every aspect of life; for example, only male donkeys are used in order to prevent the corruption of the population who might otherwise witness donkey lust. Foreign visitors should dress modestly. Men should not wear shorts in town; women shouldn’t bare their arms or legs. A sign explaining these dress codes is posted in town in English. Women should also avoid wandering into less populated areas alone, especially in the afternoon (when most Siwans take a siesta) and in the evenings.

Those planning to spend more than a day in Siwa should make an effort to glance at a copy of the late Ahmed Fakhry’s superb 200-page guide to Siwa. The author, a renowned Egyptologist, conveys his love for the oasis through fastidious descriptions of its history, culture, and geography. Published by the American University in Cairo, Fakhry’s The Oases of Egypt: Volume I, Siwa is available at the AUC Bookstore in Cairo and several shops in Siwa itself (LE30). Mr. Mahdi, the local tourist guru, keeps two copies on hand in the tourist office.