The small Sohag Restaurant, a sidekick of Abdou’s, extravagantly beflied and inferior to its neighboring eatery, still serves as a good abwa. Enterprising throats can enjoy a menagerie of cheap, exotic drinks (e.g., louisa, a sweet mint beverage) for under LEI. (Open daily 8am-lam). Opposite, the Amun and Amon Restaurants, dicing with plagiaristic death, offer the same food at the same times for the same prices in slightly grubbier, fanless circumstances. The cheapest eats in town can be found at Restaurant Almeni, where most dishes are less than LEI. The local stores are also well stocked with canned goods, cold soda and mineral water, and fresh and dried dates and figs (in season).

Because Siwans tend to be more reserved than residents of most Egyptian towns, the traveler will be lucky to receive an invitation to eat or stay with a local family. Invitations are usually offered by children, but sometimes by men. Sometimes the Siwans will hope to sell you homemade handicrafts (you can get great deals on native silverwork and Siwan designer headcoverings), and sometimes they’re just eager to help you use up those last few exposures on your roll of film. Women will be allowed to enter a home much more readily than men. As always, exercise caution before accepting hospitality.