In addition to Shali, a second acropolis rises lkm to the northeast of ancient Siwa. During the bombing of Siwa town by the Italians in World War II, its caves and ancient tombs sheltered the Siwans and the Egyptian, British, Australian, and New Zealand armed forces from the modern marauders. During this period the local people rediscovered several Ptolemaic-era tombs that Romans had robbed and then reused. Called the Tombs of Gabal al-Mawta (Hill of the Dead), they merit a visit by every traveler to Siwa. The random human bones and mummy wrappings that litter the sight belonged to the Romans and, sadly, the niches damaging the ancient frescoes are also their doing.

A custodian is on hand to unlock the tombs Sunday through Thursday from 9am to lpm, but it is best to confirm the custodian’s whereabouts with Mr. Hweiti or your muleteer. Bring a flashlight (or buy one from one of the stores along the road from the town square to the mountain for LE2.5O-3), and be sure not to miss the Tomb of Si-Amon (literally, Man of Araon, the prominent pharaonic deity). Although damaged by Allied and Egyptian soldiers during the war, it boasts a beautifully painted ceiling depicting the six stages of the sun’s journey across the sky.

Marred murals on the walls show the Hellenized portrayal of the bearded nobleman Si-Amon and his sons worshiping Egyptian deities. The Tomb of N iperpathot housed the body of a nobleman of the 26th and last pharaonic dynasty. It is the oldest tomb in Siwa, but the real attraction is the once-mummified skull, complete with hair, gaping from a rusty can in one of the niches. The Tomb of Mesu-lsis is 20m to the east of Si-Amon, and has ancient frescoes depicting the gods Isis and Osiris in action. The acropolis commands exhilarating views of Siwa town and the oasis; the summit, now a military lookout post, is off-limits. LE1-2 baksheesh is appropriate.