Every October Siwans gather for a huge feast at the rocks of Dakrur. A “chief of the feast” oversees the distribution of food to the small groups spread over the plain, and none may begin to eat until the chief climbs to the top of the rock and hollers “Bismallah!” (In the name of God). Tourists are invited to attend; it’s an experience not to be missed.

Siwa is also the place to purchase exquisite handicrafts, including intricately embroidered clothing and veils, margunahs (large decorated baskets that weave elegance into every Siwan household), and heavy silver alloy jewelry. Several stores have sprung up around the town square: Hassan’s Handicrafts, next to the phone office; Siwa Crafts, to the left of Abdou Restaurant; Fatnas Bazaar, near the police station; and Sharif s, halfway up Gabal al-Mawta. Don’t try to bargain in craft shops because the women set the prices and aren’t there to haggle. Many crafts are changing to accommodate tourist demands-the baskets and shawls are the most authentic. It’s also quite likely that precocious children will drag you into a private home to view their own family’s selection of handiwork.