Sights Don’t linger in mangy Mut. The only sight is the Dakhia Ethnographic Museum, whose exhibits explain traditional oasis culture through a reconstruction of a typical Dakhlan family dwelling. Expressive clay figurines created by the artist Mabruk recreate scenes of village life, including the’preparation of a bride for marriage and the celebration of a pilgrim’s return from the hajj. The museum is located next to Hotel Dar al-Wafden in eastern Mut. Visits can be arranged through the tourist offiee or by contacting Ibrahim Kamel Abdallah, the museum’s curator. Reach him at the Ministry of Culture office (tel. 94 13 11), the multi-story building on New Valley St. north of Hamdy Restaurant (he’s usually there between 8am-2pm and 6-9pm), or at home (tel. 94 17 69). The admission fee is LEI.

Use the capital as a base for travel to the outlying villages. The most edifying day-trip is to the western village of Al-Qasr, 32km northwest of Mut on the main highway. The charming contemporary town was built in and around the substantial remains of Dakhla’s medieval Islamic capital. Its mud buildings remain cool in summer and warm in winter. The old village of Al-Qasr lies slightly to the north (400m) of the main road through the new village. At the western edge of town on the main road is a large map of Al-Qasr, visible from the road. Underneath the map is a small exhibit on traditional Dakhlan culture. Within the old village itself, occasional arrows direct you to the main sights.