At Bashendi, 5km farther east (and 40km from Mut), the accomplishments of a “model village” have prompted cities everywhere to ask their village spawn, “Why can’t you be more like Bashendi?” The village actually lies on top of a recently discovered ancient temple, but excavation is improbable for the near future. The large stone Tomb of Ketenus contains four rooms, including one decorated with scenes of its 2nd-century Roman owner mingling with the gods Min and Seth. (The key is held by a villager whom locals will hunt down upon request. Admission LE8, students LE4.) Next door, the prominent Tomb of Bash Endi, the base of which is Roman but whose domed roof is distinctly Islamic, commemorates the village’s beloved namesake. You might join locals who decorate the inside of the holy man’s tomb with henna in hopes of finding missing objects and links. The village leaders will inevitably direct you to the Bashendi carpet works, where local youths are trained to weave. If the guard isn’t around to open the tombs, you may be invited in by a hospitable villager. Around these sights are a number of hot and cold springs to which locals can direct you.

Despite its assortment of natural pyramids, the strip of desert along the road to Kharga has unusually little to inspire the muse. The rest house, at the midway point, doesn’t even offer food. Crescent-shaped sand dunes creep across the road just outside Kharga, necessitating occasional detours.