Adventurers may want to take the road from Baris to Luxor-it’s not paved all the way, but reportedly will be soon. No public transportation travels this road, and a police permit is required for private cars. Consult the tourist office for information.

The 240km road to Assyut passes through endless miles of monotonous desert that do little to inspire consciousness. The town of Kliarga is surrounded by a moonscape of rock outcroppings. As you leave, it becomes evident that the oasis tangos in the middle of a 200-sq.-km depression. For those raised on Hollywood imagery, the Sahara here is a let-down: none of your cactus-and-tumbleweed scenery, not even any of those awesome, towering sand dunes. Imagine five million disused dirt lots placed end-to-end. The Al-Obbur Rest House, replete with water and refreshments, is halfway to Assyut.