Practical Information

A number of regulations govern travelers to the Sinai. Unguided travel is restricted to main roads and settlements, but you can visit parts of the desert interior with a Bedouin guide. Sleeping on the beach is prohibited in some areas (notably Na’ama Bay), and the police often harass sleeping backpackers. Since these areas are not always marked, ask around before settling down for the night. Nude sunbathing is illegal, as is smoking the oft-hawked hash. You cannot bring a rented car or any four-wheel drive vehicle into the Sinai from Israel. If you hold a standard, one-month Egyptian visa, you must register your passport with the police in any town within seven days of your arrival in Egypt. Don’t wait until Sharm ash-Sheikh to do this, since the passport office there is a long hike south of the town.

Virtually none of the police in the Sinai speak English; even with a Bedouin translating, confusion looms. If they’re uncertain whether you’ve registered (and they may overlook the rather obvious triangular registration stamp on your passport), they may insist that you register in ever}’ town you visit. If you ask a procedural question that stumps them, you may be ordered to go to the main police station at Taba or Sharm ash-Sheikh, no matter how inconvenient this may be from your point of view. Don’t disregard police orders, but realize that they may not understand your situation. Any Arabic you know goes a long way with the police and other fidgety officials.