Accommodations and Food

The search for budget accommodations in Al-Arish is an ordeal. The beachside Moonlight Hotel (tel. 34 13 62; to reserve rooms from Cairo, tel. 24 81 28), on Fouad Zakry St., 50m west of the tourist office, has petite rooms for LE10 and a view of the beach. (Singles LE5, with bath LE15. Doubles LE10, with bath LE25. Breakfast included.) The more centrally located As-Salaam Hotel on July 23 St. (tel. 34 12 19), one block north of Baladiya Sq., has shabby but spacious rooms. (Singles LE4. Doubles with bath LE10.) There are also several campgrounds along the beach. The average fee for a two-person tent is LE6; ask at the tourist office for details. It is also possible to camp for free cm the beaches near town, but you’ll need permission from the tourist police and an HI card.

Groceries are available, and the town has two unsurpassed restaurants. The Aziz Restaurant, under the as-Salaam Hotel, serves delicious kabab, kufta, and salad for LE6. Groups that call ahead (tel. 34 03 45) can enjoy their meal in the Bedouin tent room, sitting cross-legged at low tables on large, embroidered cushions. (Open daily lOam-midnight.) About 300m down the street, just past the Sultana Cafe, the Sam-mar Restaurant offers a variety of fried chicken and fish dishes for about LE7.50. Filling hawawshi (bread filled with meat) can be had for a painless LEI. (There’s no sign in English for this restaurant; look for the Mickey Mouse across the street from the National Bank of Egypt.)

On your way to the beach, have a look at the town’s only tourist attraction—the bizarre, multi-colored brick minaret on your left. July 23 St. is lined with small outdoor bistros where you can get a cup of shay or afuul sandwich for a few piasters.