At restaurants, if the uninitiated can read the menu, you can’t afford the food. Omnipresent hummus and falafel are always a cheap option. Kabab and shwarma are skewered lamb or chicken. Fresh ka’ik, a bread ring with sesame seeds, is a street favorite, and you’ll see long lines at the market for knqffeb, a delicious creamy confection made of soft cheese and wheat.

Water in Amman is piped in from Azraq oasis and the Euphrates River in Iraq. Although certainly potable, it is hardly pure. Toting bottled water 0OOfils, more at a restaurant or tourist site) or iodine tablets, like extra molars, is a sign of wisdom. As the desert recedes, more vegetables venture into the country’s diet, but raw salads and fruits can be problematic if not washed properly—fruits and vegetables that can be peeled are best.