Thurs. 9am-3pm. Iraq, between First and Second Circle on Jabal Amman (tel. 62 31 75). Neither British nor American citizens are allowed to visit Iraq. Syria, Jabal Amman, up from Third Circle toward the Holiday Inn (tel. 64 10 76). Take a left at the 5-way intersection. For a visa bring one photo and JD9.750 for Americans, JD37.5OO for British nationals. You must have a Jordanian entry stamp on your passport and no evidence of visits to the West Bank or Israel. Open for visas Sun.-Thurs. 9-1 lam.

Currency Exchange: Banking hours are ordinarily Sat.-Wed. 8:3Oam-12:3Opm and 4-5:45pm, Thurs. 8:30am-12;30pm. Authorized money changers are open daily. usually late into the evening, and offer roughly the same exchange rates as banks. You may have to wait 2O-3Omin. to get cash for your traveler’s checks. Bring your passport.Try Housing Bank, Police College St. (tel. 66 71 26), Abdali. The Industrial Development Bank by the Second Circle on Jabal Amman (tel. 64 22 16) offers all banking services.

American Express: International Traders, King Hussein St., P.O. Box 408 (tel. 66 10 14/5. fax 66 99 05) in Shmeisani, opposite the Ambassador Hotel. Holds mail and can obtain visas at no charge for cardholders. Open Sat.-Thurs. 8am-lpm and 3-6pm.