Official hotel prices are set by the government and posted conspicuously at each hotel. During slow times it’s often possible to bargain. In the dirt-cheapest places— those catering mostly to foreign workers—governmental edicts reflect the pipe dreams of local proprietors rather than reality. And although beds with clean sheets are easy to find, toilet paper and decent washing facilities are definitely not. Most places will keep your passport until your bill is paid.

Neor Abdali Station
Remal Hotel, 4 Sa’id Bin al-Harith St., P.O. Box 910477 (tel 63 06 70, fax 61 55 85). From Abdali, walk up the hill by the police station; the hotel is on your right. Newly renovated; bright, clean, freshly-painted rooms. Singles JD14. Doubles JD18. Discount up to 40% if you bargain and stay more than one night.

Canary Hotel, Karmaly St. (tel. 63 83 53), on Jabal al-Weibdeh near Terra Sancta College. From Abdali, walk Wi blocks downhill to the fork at the base of Abdali, bear right, and take the first right after the fork. Convivial, family-like atmosphere, tacky bright green and pink walls, complete with backgammon and namesake canaries on the patio out front. Singles JD12-15. Doubles JD16-20.