Vinecia Hotel, Basman St. (tel. 63 88 95). Near the central post office, on the opposite side of the street. Elevator to the 3rd floor. Clean rooms and overzealous manager. Free laundry. JD2 per person, with bath JD2.500.

Palace Hotel, King Faisal St. (tel. 62 43 27, fax 65 06 03), 1^ blocks from Al-Husseini Mosque. Turn left into a small alley with clothing stores; entrance on left. Roman pillar decor and mandatory glittery picture of King Hussein hanging over the desk. Singles JD7.700, some without bathrooms. Doubles JD9.900. Triples JD13.200.

Metro Hotel, King Hussein St. (tel. 63 91 91), in the alley beside the blue and yellow Housing Bank. Peeling brown wallpaper, hefty rooms with sinks, cozy nook on the roof Both pit toilets (disgusting when unfiushed) and regular ones; rudimentary showers. You get what you pay for. Singles JD5. Doubles JDS. Hot shower 500fils.