Food

Amman’s edibles combine the city’s Bedouin and Palestinian heritages. The better sit-down restaurants cluster near Third Circle, in Shmeisani, and along Mecca St.; these places usually add a 10% service charge to the bill. If the menu is in Arabic, ask the waiter to translate. Endless varieties of street food are cheap and plentiful; your stomach’s probably safest on the main thoroughfares (we make no guarantees).

Shwarma is always available for about 200fils, but the most succulent stuff comes from the stands on Prince Muhammad St. just downhill from Third Circle, and on the Second Circle near the Lebanese Embassy. Falafel and corn on the cob go for lOOfils and 250fils respectively. Common sides include hummus plates and salads for 25O-35Ofils. Think twice before chowing down on that salad, though—vegetables may not be well washed, and DDT is hardly an ideal garnish.

Bread is, well, a staple. Khoubz (flat-bread) is the most convenient; ka’ik (sesame rings) the most tasty. Both are available at almost any stand for 100-200fils. Ask for za’atar (dried thyme, sesame seeds and salt) to sprinkle on top. For more variety, try cheese or meat sfiehah (Arabic pizzas) or manaish (bread baked with olive oil, za’atar, and other spices).