Al-Quds Restaurant, King Hussein St. (tel. 63 01 68/9). A few meters before the traffic lights on the left as you come down the street from Abdali. Bright, clean with mounds of tempting, artistically-arranged Arabic sweets as you enter. Varied crowd ranges from families to the lonely budget traveler. Main dish menu modified daily. Mensaf with chickenJD 1.500. KababJDIAOQ. French fries 240fils. Hummus 300fUs. Open daily.

Al-A’eelat Restaurant, Prince Muhammad St. (tel. 63 72 46), on the left as you walk lOmin. uphill from Faisal St. Sign is in Arabic; look for the Suleiman Tannous Chevrolet dealer opposite. Small, but unbeatable prices. Sandwiches 200fils. Falafel lOfils each. Open Sat.-Thurs. 8am-3pm.

Cairo Restaurant, between King Talal St. and Omar al-Mukhtar St., the two broad avenues heading southwest from Al-Husseini Mosque. Walkabout 100m from the mosque toward the market and look left for a side street clucking with roasting chickens. The Cairo is big, bright, and orange, on the mosque side of the street.