Hearty, inexpensive meals; Vz roast chicken 900fllS, kahab 8QQftls,fasula (bean soup) 500fils, and breakfast/w«/ plates 25Ofils. Open daily 5am-l lpm, often later.

Salaam Restaurant, King Faisal St. (tel. 62 26 26), a half block away from Al-Husseini Mosque on the left-hand side of the street. No English sign, but look for spitted chickens in the window. The colorful crowd, tasty food, and A/C compensate for the gloomy interior. JD2.160 buys you bread, bird, and fries. Sfiehah and manaish 140 fils each. Menu is in Arabic but servers can describe the dishes in English. Open daily 7am-10pm.

Indian Chicken Tikka Inn, Prince Muhammad St. (tel. 64 24 37), downhill from the Third Circle. Tiny upstairs room with A/C. Take out or eat in. Curry dishes JD1.750. Half-chicken tikka 1200fils. Mixparatfoa (Indian bread) and hummus for 300fils. Another location at Seventh Circle.