Sights

Although Amman is usually considered an inhabited way station between Jordan’s major attractions, it has several worthwhile sights. The Roman Theater, downtown on Jabal al-Qala’a, is the most renowned. Built by Antoninus Pius (138-61 AD), the theater could accommodate 6000 spectators. (Open daily 8am-5pm. Free.) Beyond the Odeon, a smaller theater, is a new piazza. The short stroll between AI-Husseini Mosque and the Nymphaeum is crowded with pedestrians and twinkling evening lights.

Two museums are built into the foundations of the theater on either side of the stage area. The Folklore Museum (tel. 65 17 42) has two rooms filled with mannequins impersonating an entertaining cast of Jordanian characters, as well as smaller rooms displaying Palestinian embroidery. (Open Wed.-Mon. 8am-5pm. Admission 250flIs.) The Museum of Popular Traditions (tel. 65 17 60) shows off current attire and Jordanian jewels. Learn about the origins of regional embroidery and why the white shawl is called “the thrilling of the soul.” The gallery to the right of the entrance displays 6th-century mosaics from Madaba and Jerash. (Open daily 8am-5pm. Admission 25Ofils.)