For a selection of indigenous products, wander through the Jordan Craft Center (tel. 64 45 55), downhill from the Lebanese Embassy (Second Circle) and on the left. This is a non-profit exhibition of rugs, stiver, glass, jewelry, embroidery, caftans, and pottery (open Sat.-Thurs. 9am-lpm and 4-7pm; in winter Sun.-Thurs. 9am-lpm and 3-6pni). Amman also features a number of galleries that display national and regional art; these are found in the ministry and luxury hotel districts. The Jordan National Gallery, on Jabal aE-Weibdeh (tel. 63 01 28) at Muntazah Park displays contemporary artwork from around the Muslim world as well as 19th-century paintings of the Middle East by European artists. (Open Wed.-Mon. 8am-5pm. Free.)

Amman’s finest Byzantine artifact is the 6th-century Suwaiffiyeh mosaic, unearthed during construction at the western edge of the city. Ask the caretaker to hose down the floor for a better look at the design of bizarre creatures, including leaf-bearded men, eagles with ears, and eelie fish-men. To reach the site, follow the signs from the first left west of Sixth Circle. (Open Sat.-Thurs. 8am-4pm, Fri. 9am-2pm. Free.) The Martyr’s Monument and Military Museum (tel. 66 42 40) sit in an odd square building overlooking the Hussein Sports City. The museum houses a chronological display of military memorabilia, dating from the Arab revolt in 1916 to the present (open Sun.-Fri. 9am-4pm; free). They’re occasionally closed to visitors, so call ahead.