About 2-3km on the way from Wadi Seer to Iraq al-Emir, you pass Al-Bassa springs, the source of the valley’s fertility and a swimming pool for many of the area’s kiddies. Above the left bank of the wadi, the monastery Ad-Deir is carved into the face of the cliff. This extraordinary building deserves the 20-minute clamber, even if you don’t find any of the Roman gold villagers claim is buried under the floor. Each of the thousands of triangular niches on the walls inside once cradled a skull: the chamber is an ossuary which stored remnants of monks.

Service taxis to the municipality of Wadi Seer leave from Third Circle (I65fils). A minibus (95fils) leaves from Wahadat Station and will let you off either in Wadi Seer or at the Al-Bassa springs. From Abdali Station, a minibus runs to Suweilah where you can connect with a minibus to Wadi Seer. To get to the village of Iraq el-Emir take a minibus from Wadi Seer (1 lOfils) to the city and ask the driver to point out the path to Qasr al-Abd. Head to the village store for supplies. Past the castle the road ends, making passage to the Jordan Valley unmanageable for ordinary vehicles. To reach the Dead Sea you’ll have to backtrack to Amman.