Salt

During Turkish rule, Salt (pronounced “suit") was the chief administrative center for the surrounding area, and in the 1920s it seemed a likely choice for the capital of the newly independent state of Jordan. But the city was bypassed in favor of the smaller but more centrally located village of Amman. While development obliterated Amman’s rural charm, Salt has retained much of its original flavor. The focal point of Salt is the mosque on Jabal Yushah, which, according to Muslim legend, covers the site of the tomb of the prophet Hosea (Yushah).

A survey of the crowded Ottoman houses and buildings clinging to the steep slopes can be the most rewarding part of a visit to this sleepy town. Venture up into the hills via one of the narrow stairways in the downtown area. Many of the yellow stone buildings date from the late 19th century. The Ottoman barracks, still intact, were built over a 13th-century fortress that was destroyed to prevent its capture at Crusader hands. Salt is also known for its large Christian community: church towers pepper the hillsides. If the adventurous spirit moves you, wander downhill from the bus station into Wadi Sh’eib. Unexplored caves and abandoned stone houses dot the area, and numerous dirt paths lead you further down. Here, pink flowers and fruit trees line the narrow stream that winds through the bottom of the valley. Leave a trail of bread crumbs, or you might not find your way back.

A small and unexciting Archeological Museum (tel. 55 56 53) is located uphill from the bus station near trie Jordan Islamic Bank. Essentially a dingy room full of cabinets overflowing with coins and pottery dating from the Calcolithic period (4500 BC) to the Islamic period (1516 AD). Stray pieces of faded mosaic line the walls of its corridor (open Sat.-Thurs. 8am-2pm, free).

Taking a minibus up Wadi Sh’eib is the most dramatic approach to Salt. Lush, terraced farmlands and eucalyptus groves tumble down the wadi to the southwest of town, descending to Shuneh Nimrin (South Shuneh) on the busy route from Amman to the King Hussein/Allenby Bridge (Jordan Valley Highway). Less scenic but more practical, bus #57 crawls the 30km to Salt from King Abdallah St. on the east side of Amman, stopping at Fifth Circle and the town of Suweilah en route (175fils). A service taxi from Abdali Station costs 300fils. Salt has no tourist office, hotels, or restaurants to pamper travelers. The post office (tel. 55 49 78) is located uphill from the circle on the left (open Sat.-Thurs. 7:30am-7pm, Fri. 8am-l:3Opm). Next door is the police station (tel. 55 56 32).