Azraq

On the long and grinding road east of Hallabat you’ll hear nothing but the entreaties of your overheating engine. After kilometers of drab desert, you’ll suddenly come upon the 12 square km of lush parklands, pools, and gardens of the Azraq oasis. These wetlands are Jordan’s only permanent body of fresh water. Relax and reassemble your bearings (both mental and mechanical) at Azraq Junction, where the highway to the northeast heads off fear Iraq and the southeastern road leads to the southern castles and on into Saudi Arabia.

About 13km north of Azraq junction on the highway to Iraq squats Qasr Azraq. Most of the castle is in excellent condition thanks to extensive restoration. The Druze gatekeeper will muscle open the three-ton portal of the castle and show you his Lawrence of Arabia photograph collection if you inquire with sugar on top. (Many of the photographs look suspiciously like the gate-keeper himself.)