Deir Alia and Pella (Tabaqat Fahl)

Deir Alia (the High Temple; all temples here were built at the top of the hill), 50km north of the Dead Sea, is the spot where Jacob supposedly snoozed after wrestling with the angel. On and around the sandy tel overlooking the modern town, archeol-ogists have collected Bronze Age, Iron Age, Roman, and Islamic artifacts documenting over 20 centuries of history. Two temples dating back as far as 1300 BC have been excavated. To the casual observer, however, the tel tells no tales; baked mud walls of ancient temples and shrines blend into the top of the tanned mound, only vaguely suggesting the former structures.

For elucidation, consult the exhibit at the dig headquarters, stationed on the left at the end of the dirt road as you pass by the foot of the tel. A map, an explanation of the excavation, and an extensive array of its spoils are on display here,The best way to reach Deir Alia is to take a minibus from South Shuna (see above). Service (590fils) and buses (37Ofils) also run sporadically from Amman’s Abdali Station to Deir Alia village next to the site. Some foolish travelers try to hitch to Deir Alia from Salt; this is a risky trek, as few cars pass. The route from Salt passes through Zei National Park, about 5km beyond Salt, where lovely pine forests and free camping grounds await.