A 30-km ride north of Deir Alia brings you to the serene surroundings of Tabaqat Fahl, the biblical Pella. A thriving city during the first century AD owing to membership in the Decapolis commercial league, Pella is gradually being uneaithed by American and Australian archeologists. On the bank of a tortuous wadi, a stark row of Roman columns frames bald hills and gaping ancient tombs. Far below, a Byzantine amphitheater opens onto green lawns and cool springs at the mouth of the wadi.

Locals have dammed the spring to create pools that are great for splashing but not for drinking: bring potable water. Across from the Archeological Station lie the ruins of an Umayyad mosque and cemetery. Renovations of the church and civic center behind the theater unearthed skeletons of camels and their keeper, buried since an earthquake in 747 AD. To reach the site from the main road, hike 2km tip the paved turn-off to Tabaqat Fahl. The trail leads to the Australian compound on the hill to the right. At the top of the mountain is Pella’s Rest House with a beautiful view of the valley below and a price list that will give the traveler a heart attack.