Ajlun

Atop the highest peak overlooking Ajlun is Qal’at ar-Rabadh, a huge Arab castle built between 1184 and 1185 by Azz ad-Din Ausama, a commander under Salah ad-Din. Crusader knights spent decades unsuccessfully trying to capture the castle and nearby village. The name Kafranjah, a town in the area famous for its olive trees, suggests that the crusading Franks (Franjts in Arabic) did some time here—if only as prisoners. The Crusader threat quelled, Mamluks began using the castle to transmit messages by beacon and pigeon; from Baghdad to Cairo, day or night, the relay could be made in 12 hours. (Castle open daily 6:3Oam-6 or 7pm. Free.)

Practical Information Ajlun lies a hilly 24km west of Jerash, an easy hitch or bus ride from that town, from Amman (73km), or from Irbid (88km). Service from Amman takes 75 minutes (690flls); bus is slower but cheaper (5OOfils). From Ajlun’s main traffic circle, which revolves around a sickly henna tree gasping from the fumes, it’s 4km of gently sloping road to the summit. You can catch a taxi at the traffic circle for JD1 round-trip. Ajlun’s post office is located on Amman St., on your right as you enter the town (open Sat.-Thurs. 7:30am-7pm, Fri. and holidays 8am-1:30pm). Exchange money at either the Housing Bank, next door to the post office, or the Bank of Jordan, on Irbid St. uphill from the circle (regular banking hrs. Sat.-Thurs. 8am-12:30pm).

The only lodgings are the Rabadh Hotel (tel. (04) 46 22 02; singles JD12, doubles JD15) and the Ajlun Hotel (tel. (04) 46 25 24; singles JD15, doubles JD18). Both are between Ajlun and the castle.
The Rabadh Hotel’s terrace restaurant charges eye-moistening prices for its view of the fortress and valley: Shish kebab or a full breakfast for JD2. If you stick to mezze dishes at 25Ofils per plate you can afford an enjoyable light lunch. Those who prefer to court their bellies rather than their eyes should stop in at the Green Mountain Restaurant in Ajlun’s center circle. A half-chicken costs SOOfils, kabab JD1.100, hummus and fuul 220fils, and 650fils buys a complete meal which includes rice, meat, and a vegetable. (Open daily 6:30am-8:30pm.)