The beautiful Umm Qeis Rest House (tel. 21 72 10, ext. 59), a joint project of the Department of Antiquities and the American Center for Oriental Research (ACOR), serves overpriced refreshments to desperate travelers. No overnight lodging is available—hit the hills for a serene, scenic campsite. There is a post office along the main road through modern Umm Qeis (open Sat.-Thurs. 7:30am-7pm, Fri. 8am-l :30pm).

From Umm Qeis, wait for the next minibus from Irbid headed to Al-Hamma, 10km away. (Foolish hitchers have to watch for the skull-and-bones signs that identify mine fields.) Shortly beyond Umm Qeis, at the first of several checkpoints, a soldier will ask to see your passport. Just after the military roadblock, the valley of the Yarmouk River gapes below. The high plateau across the vale is the Golan Heights.