After that exquisite descent, the arrival in Al-Hamma itself (entrance fee 200fils per car) may be a letdown. Swimming in the mineral springs complex costs 600 fils, JD4.200 if you reserve a private bath with slightly cooler water. (Open daily 6am-8pm.) Men and women cannot use the pool at the same time: two-hour shifts alternate between the sexes (first shift 6-8am, for men). After 8pm, you can reserve the mineral springs complex for JD6 per hour—if you don’t mind the egg-gregious stench of sulphur.

The Hotel al-Hamma al-Urdun (tel. (02) 21 72 03), built like a staircase around the springs, has clean, no-frills rooms. (Doubles JD5-6. Triples with carpeting JD20. Chalet triples complete with mineral water JD15. Quints JD30.) For food, the Jordanian Hammi Restaurant (tel. (02) 21 72 03) on the east side of the complex serves kabab for an outlandish JD 1.800. You’re better off heading for the old ‘’tropical village"—complete with mud huts, thick pomegranate groves, and banana palms—and bargaining with the villagers for local specialties. Buses travel to Umm Qeis (150fils) and Al-Hamma (210fils) from Irbid’s North Station. The last minibus leaves at around 5:30pm or 6pm.