Mafraq & Umm al-Jimal

The swirling sand storms that disturb the tranquil desert form light brown pillars - that reach up to the sky. These shifting columns provide the sole entertainment on , the long, straight road to Mafraq. Unlike most other cities in Jordan, Mafraq (junction in Arabic) is well east of the western mountain range, tucked away in the middle of vast expanses of dry, dusty, unscenic desert. As its Arabic name suggests, the town is an important transportation link between Syria, Iraq, and Saudi Arabia.

This arid capital of Jordan’s largest county is worth a visit because of its proximity to a remarkiible Decapolis city, Umm al-Jimal, a mass of black ruins on the edge of a basalt desert. Known as the ■’Black Oasis", the eerie monuments of ancient civilizations may look like a mass of rubble and walls that might collapse any minute; they stand for what were once basalt houses, churches, barracks, and a fort complex, dating from the Nabatean, Roman, Byzantine, and Umayyad periods. The town was finally destroyed in a 747 AD earthquake and never rebuilt. Umm al-Jimal is not developed for tourism, and while you can appreciate on your own the striking visual difference between this place and other Decapolis cities such as Jerash or Pella, you will need professional guidance for any further nibble probing.

Practical Information Mafraq’s bus station is located off of the main street. There are no direct buses or service between Mafraq and Amman. From Mafraq, take a bus to Zarqa (last departure 7pm, 33Ofils) and from there to Amman (HOfils). A service taxi to Zarqa from Mafraq costs 50OfiIs. The town’s post office (open 7:30am-5pm, Fri. and holidays 7:30am-2pm) and police station are on its main street. Change money at the Arab Bank or the Housing Bank, both of which are also conveniently situated on the main street. There are no accommodations in Mafraq, and restaurants are scarce, but that is expected to change with the recent (Sept. 93) opening of Aal al-Beit University.

Buses travel between Mafraq and the village of Umm al-Jimal (!^hr., 200fils). Ask the bus driver to drop you off at the entrance to the ancient ruins. Bring a hat, lots of cold water, and an archeologist (contact FoA or ACOR in Amman).