ideal way to travel the length of Jordan. This ancient route journeys through spectacular canyons, crisscrossing numerous historical sites along the way. Known by me same name in biblical times, this road was traveled by the Israelites during their exodus from Egypt. Caravans filled with cinnamon and myrrh crept from Arabia to Palestine and Syria en route to Europe. Biblical sites, Byzantine churches and mosaics Crusader castles, and soul-stirring scenery await you along this route.

Service taxis run most of the way from Amman to Petra, as do minibuses, but generally in the mornings only. Karak is a convenient overnight stop. Nothing leaves Tafilah after 4pm except service, so get an early start. Because many drivers shun the Kings’ Highway, hitchhiking is reportedly poor. Drivers tend to head for the first entrance to the Desert Highway—check that they intend to stay on the Kings’ before climbing in. Since, for some inscrutable reason, roadside bystanders often wave at passing cars in salutation, hitchers generally point at the curb beside their feet or stick their right arm out into the traffic—the gestures used to hail buses. Hitchers find a light pack and lots of water crucial.