Jordan Flowers Hotel (tel. 31 43 77), a W-block north of the Jerusalem Hotel. Welcoming and weedless. Friendly and helpful management caters to the varying needs of a budget traveler. Singles JD4, with bath JD5, with A/C, bath, TV, and balcony JD14. Doubles JD5, with bath JDS, with amenities JD18.

Nile Palace Hotel (tel. 31 51 77/8), at the northeast corner of Ailah Sq. Park, across a vacant lot full of bottles and bricks from the Arab Bank. Not quite palatial—psychedelic wall murals and grimy bathrooms. Plenty of fans. Singles JDI.500. DoublesJD3-

Jerusalem Hotel (tel. 314815). on the 2nd floor of the street running south from Ailah Sq. Low prices with lots of fans and showers. Best to sleep on the roof (with its own mattresses and showers) for 600fils. Singles JD4. Doubles JD5. Triples JD6.

The only legal camping north of the port is in the lots beside some of the larger hotels. The Aqaba Hotel has hard ground (it’s basically a parking lot) and the JD4.400 tee also admits you to the private beach and showers. Six km south of the port are the new and wonderfully scenic government camping facilities with showers and bathrooms for only 750fils. To get there, walk or take a taxi (JD3).