Food

Aqaba’s fare is only fair. Fresh fish, the obvious staple of a sea-side town, is actually a rarity here. Because of the low plankton content in the clear northern waters of the Gulf of Aqaba, there are few edible sea creatures afloat. Jordanians are not permitted to fish richer Saudi waters and the Egyptian export tax is outlandish. There is a market just up from Allah Sq. where you can fill up on fresh fruit, bread, and cheese, though your snout may be overwhelmed on windless summer days. Shops on the streets surrounding the square sell delicacies from fried sloth to ice cream, mostly at high prices.

AM Baba Restaurant (tel. 31 39 01), on the corner north of the Hussein ibn Ali Mosque, downhill from Ata Ali. Aqaba’s hip hangout, specializing in fresh fish (entrees JD5 and up) and Lebanese hors d’oeuvres (220-770fils). Service gives lots of time to admire campy fish fountain dedicated to King Hussein and the 40 thieves. Open daily Sam-midnight.

Chicken Tikka, An-Nahda St. (tel. 31 36 33), 100m west of the Aquamarina II Hotel on your right. Red and white modern decor. Slim menu but best fries in Jordan. Try the Tikka Special—2 pieces of spicy chicken, fries, and burri (puffy bread) JD1.800. Open daily 11 am-midnight.

Captain’s Restaurant, An-Nahda St. (tel. 31 69 05), west of the Aquamarina II Hotel, or look for the blue-and-white veranda. Cheery staff, pleasant manager, plastic seaweed. Delectable spaghetti dishes (JD1.100-1.300) and fresh fish (JD4). Omelette 300fils. Open daily lOam-midnight or lam.

Chili House Restaurant (tel. 31 24 35), behind the Captain’s Restaurant and to the left of Mickey Mouse. Extraordinary double cheeseburger (JD1.300), fish sandwiches (JD1.250), and slushpuppies (300fils). Look for the big, yellow smiley-face with its tongue sticking out. Open daily 1 lam-midnight.

Ata Ali Cafe (tel. 31 52 00), to the north of the Hussein ibn Ali Mosque. Pink-and-white chairs. Filling meals forJD3-JD3.500; hard or soft knaffeh 400131s, Mouthwatering 3-scoop sundaes (650fils) and sugar cones (200fils). Open daily 7am-11:30pm or midnight.