Indigent sun and coral worshippers often walk southeast to the free pebble beach behind a “Restricted Area—No Camping” sign. It’s mostly an all-male scene, and women may become the focus of more attention than they want. The trek past the port on the 10km strip leading to Saudi Arabia is long, but if you’ve got a whole day to conquer and a grand picnic, this is the place to go. A poke-bonnet and sunscreen are necessities, no matter how tan you think you are.

Aqaba should thank its lucky starfish for its aquatic splendors because the sights above sea level don’t hold much water. The recently discovered ruins of Aila are the only exception, and they’re not ail that exceptional. In a seemingly plain beachside lot across from the Miramar Hotel, archeologists have uncovered the original 120 by 160m 10th-century port. The sight is always open and visitors are free to wander amidst the signs explaining the paltry ruins. Items recovered in the excavations, including Greek and Arabic inscriptions, pottery shards, and other small items are displayed in the recently completed Aqaba Museum, in the same building as the visitors center between the Fort of Salah ad-Din and the southern waterfront (open daily 8am-2pm. 25Ofils donation requested). The Medieval Fort itself, behind a dilapidated mosque and a palm grove, is gradually being restored by the Department of Antiquities.

An accord between the Jordanian and Egyptian governments has recently opened up the Egyptian Pharaoh’s Island (7km off shore) to tourists with Jordanian visas. Day-passes can be obtained in Aqaba and the boat ride takes about 45 minutes (JD20). There is boffo swimming and snorkeling (bring your own equipment) around the island (known in Jordanian Arabic as Jazirat Faraun). Contact the Aqua Marina hotel for cruise details; see Sinai in Egypt for more on the island.