Only jeeps or camels can continue through Wadi al-Umran to Khirbet Kithara back on the Desert Highway near Aqaba. Riding a camel ranges in price from JD1.500 toJD24, depending on the destination. Jeep trips can cost anywhere from JD5 per car to Lawrence’s Well, to JD22 to the Rock Bridge. Arrange it with the tourist official in the camp in the middle of Wadi Rum when you arrive.

The clean and comfortable government Rest House maintains a monopoly on food and refreshments. (Bottled water 55Ofils, Pepsi 77Ofils, buffet lunch JD4.) Visitors who decide to stay overnight must sleep in one of the tents next to the Rest House (JD2 per person per night). A larger tent beside the small campground is often the site of traditional Bedouin music and singing in the evenings.