Ein Hod

En Hod (Hebrew for “Spring of Grandeur") was originally Ein Houd (Arabic for “Spring of Garden Rows"), an Arab village of 670 people located on a hill on the western slopes of Mt. Carmel. Earlier, the town also served as a resort for Crusaders based at the nearby Atlit fortress. In 1948 the Arab inhabitants fled from the Israeli forces to the south; in 1953 the deserted village was transformed into an artist colony, established by Marcel Janco, one of the founders of the Dadaist art movement. Within this village of studios, artists create everything from traditional needle crafts to abstract paintings. Bronze sculptures grace backyards, mobiles swing between trees, and stone figures recline against fences. Most of the Arab homes are still intact, and the view of the Mediterranean undoubtedly inspires the muse.

Although studios are closed to casual visitors, the large Ein Hod Gallery (tel. (04) 84 25 48), a village cooperative, exhibits the work of over 75 artists and craftsper-sons. (Open Sat.-Thurs. 930am-5pm, Fri. 9:30am-4pm.) Next to the gallery is the Janco-Dada Museum (tel. 84 23 50 or 84 31 52), where works of the late artist are on permanent display. (Open Sun.-Thurs. and Sat. 9:30am-5pm, Fri. 9:30am4pm. Admission NIS5, students NIS3.) The small amphitheater at the village center hosts Friday evening concerts ranging from rock to classical music. Call (04) 84 33 77 or check local newspapers for listings. Walk up the steps to a new cafe to experience the culinary work of the village artists. (Quiches and cakes NIS5-10.)
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Zikhron Ya’akov

About 5km east of Dor, on a hill overlooking the fish ponds-dotted coastal plain, is Zikhron Ya’akov, founded in 1882 by Romanian Jews. The early settlers fought unsuccessfully against malarial swamps until Baron Rothschild came to their aid with generous donations, establishing a vineyard-based economy. The town is thus named “Ya’akov’s Memorial,’” commemorating the baron’s father, James. The tourist office (open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-lpm) is to the left of the central bus station on HaMeyasdim St. Buses #872 from the old central bus station in Tel Aviv (NISI 1.50) and #202 from Haifa (NIS8.30) make the trip to Zikhron Ya’akov.

Since its early start in wine production, Zikhron Ya’akov has come to be known for its Carmel-Mizrahi Winery (tel. (06) 39 67 09), founded 100 years ago by the French Jewish baron. The winery now produces a big share of Israel’s domestic wine, as well as a large stock for export. You can sample the finished product at the end of the tour, and buy some at their store. From the central bus station turn right onto HaMeyasdim St. Continue downhill for a few blocks and turn right onto HaNadiv St. The winery is the huge building at the bottom of the hill. (Open Sun.-Thurs. 8:30am-3:30pm., Fri. 8:30am-lpm. Admission NIS10. Call ahead for tours in English.) The Rothschild Family Tomb and Gardens (tel. (06) 39 78 21) is nearby (Open Sun.-Thurs. and Sat. 8am-4pm, Fri. 8am-2pm.)
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Near Caesarea

just outside Moshav Beit Hananya on the old coastal road between Caesarea and Ma’agan Mikha’el arch two well-preserved Roman aqueducts, believed to have carried water from the Shuni springs northeast of present-day Binyamina down to the ancient city of Caesarea. North of the moshav, excavations are in progress at Tel Mevorah, where several important Roman artifacts have been unearthed. Two of the marble sarcophagi discovered in the ruins of a Roman mausoleum are on display in the Rockefeller Museum in Jerusalem.

Kibbutz Ma’agan Mikha’el is one of the largest and loveliest kibbutzim in Israel. The huge industrial plant at the entrance belies the cultivated fields and acres of neat, rectangular fish ponds set between the coastal road and the sea. Part of the kibbutz serves as a wildlife preserve with an aviary, and a small museum displays arche-ological finds from the fields. The preserve runs along the banks of Nahal haTaninim (Crocodile River), purportedly the only unpolluted stream on the Israeli coast.
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Sights Caesarea’s ruins span many historical periods, although very little is left of the Roman city, largely because its magnificent buildings were constantly pillaged by other towns.

Most of the site is well marked. Relics from the Roman period include the main road and several statues; the granaries and residences are Arab remains, while the walls and churches date from the Crusader period. Don’t be surprised to find pieces of a marble column used as street pavement-Crusade-era contractors frequently reused Roman remains when erecting a city. The harbor and beaches of Caesarea are of major archaeological significance as well. The engineering of Herod’s now-submerged port included a breakwater which was the first in the Eastern Mediterranean. Both the dry ground and underwater areas of Caesarea are currently being excavated by an international team of archaeologists and volunteers.

Although most of the ruins are within the Crusader walls, the most interesting Roman remnants all lie outside the site proper. Behind the cafe across from the entrance to the Crusader city are an excavated Byzantine street and Caesarea’s most famous finds: colossal Roman statues from the 2nd century AD, one of red porphyry, the other of white marble. The two headless figures were discovered accidentally by kibbutzniks ploughing their fields. A lkm walk north along either the beach or the road that runs along the Crusader walls leads to Caesarea’s town beach and the excellently preserved Roman aqueduct.

Practical Information, Accommodations, and Food The easiest way to get to Caesarea is through Hadera, the nearest town. A number of intercity Egged buses pass through, including #852 and 872 from the old central bus station in Tel Aviv (N1S8.30), #740 from Natanya (NIS5.5O), #922 and 945 from Haifa (NIS8.30), and #945 from Jerusalem (NIS17). From Hadera bus #76 runs directly to the entrance of the Crusader City and then down the street to the Roman Theater, ending at Kibbutz Sdot Yam (NIS4.50).

You’ll pass through several suburban developments on the way to the ruins. Service between Hadera and Caesarea is infrequent (only 9 buses per day) so call Egged for specific times and plan ahead for smooth connections (or steel yourself for a 2-hr, wait in Hadera). For the spontaneous, some intercity buses traveling on the Tel Aviv-Haifa highway will stop at the Caesarea exit on the main road (ask before you board the bus); the ruins are an unrewarding 3km walk east.

Caesarea

On the site of a small anchorage named Strato’s Tower, Herod the Great built this city (Kay-SAHR-ya in Hebrew) for his emperor in Rome at the end of the first century BC. The extensive remains include a Roman theater, Byzantine mosaics, aqueducts, a Crusader city, and a 2000-year old harbor with sophisticated engineering rivaling that of any modern Israeli port. Caesarea deserves a visit despite its infrequent bus service; the ruins of the ancient city constitute one of Israel’s finest arche-oiogical sites. Though the ruins are not yet ruined, a dozen tacky cafes and gift shops, a beach club, a diving center, and even a disco have already been built among them, under the auspices of the ominously named Caesarea Development Corporation,

Phoenician travelers of the 4th century BC first established a small settlement and harbor called Strato’s Tower on the main trading route between Phoenicia and Egypt. The settlement, along with the rest of the coastal strip, eventually fell into the hands of Caesar Augustus, who granted it to Herod the Great, governor of Judea. Because of its choice location and access to the harbor, Herod turned Strato’s Tower into one of the great cities of the eastern Roman Empire. Construction began in 22 BC, and only 12 years later Strato’s Tower was a splendid Roman city boasting a theater, a hippodrome, a rhinodome, aqueducts carrying fresh water from the north, and a harbor capable of accommodating 300 ships.

Kfar Vitkin, one of the largest moshavim in Israel, lies 8km north of Natanya, a short walk from gorgeous, free beaches. The adjoining Emek Hefer Youth Hostel (HI) (tel. (09) 66 60 32) has sports facilities and impressively clean rooms. Buses #901, 857, 852 from Tel Aviv (NIS 8.3), #29, 706, 922 from Natanya (NIS4.5O), and #901, 921 from Haifa (NIS 10) travel here. Ask to get off at Tzomet Beit Yanai, then look for the hostel sign on the eastern side of the highway.

(NIS39; nonmembers NTS42. Breakfast included; lunch and dinner available NIS19, vegetarian NIS15). Reservations recommended July-Sept. Nearby is the Hanout Shohar Supermarket, which sells everything from food to artwork (open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-8pm, Fri. 8am-3pm, Sat. 9am-8pm); the Paznon (Pancake House), in the Paz gas station across the highway (tel. (09) 66 61 12; open daily 7am-lam), as close as it gets to IHOP in the Middle East (no, not in Abu-fucking-Qir); and a quiet, free beach.

Near Natanya

The beautiful Poleg Nature Preserve, about 8km south of Natanya, begins where the Poleg River meets the sea. The walk upstream leads past flowering plants and eucalyptus trees planted during the last century to dry up the swamps that once covered the Plain of Sharon. A few kilometers south, near Kibbutz Ga’ash, seaside cliffs reach almost 6lm; during the summer, you may see hang-gliding here. Ga’ash is also Israel’s largest nudist beach. Egged bus #601 runs every half-hour, 5:30am-10:30pm. Just ask the driver to let you off at Ga’ash or Nahal Poleg.

Less than 5km north of Natanya, in Aviha’il, stands the Jewish Legion Museum (tel. (09) 82 22 12), dedicated to the Jewish units of the British Army in World War L Led by the dashing Yosef Trumpeldor, the Zion Mule Corps distinguished themselves in battle at Gallipoli in 1915 against the Ottomans. (Open Sun.-Thurs. 8:30am-4pm. NIS3-40) From Natanya, take bus #1 A.

Sights & Entertainment Sand and sun addicts, as well as numerous other crawling critters, converge on Natanya’s Waterfront The steps leading to the main beach are at the western end of Ha’Atzma’ut Sq. All of Natanya’s beaches are free; those to the north, under the small cliffs, are the least crowded.

The Natanya municipality organizes various forms of free entertainment almost every night during the summer, and fairly frequently during the winter. The GTIO has complete listings of concerts, movies, and a host of other activities. During the summer, you can watch the sun set over the Mediterranean while listening to classical muzak in the amphitheater, next to the steps to beach (Sun.-Thurs. 6-8pm).
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Accommodations and Food There are no hostels in Natanya and almost all of the hotels are expensive. Many places lower their prices by 10-15% from November to February, but you should bargain at any time of the year. Make it clear that you’re on a tight budget, and remind obstinate managers that there are many other hotels in town. As always, paying in foreign currency spares you the 18% VAT. Call in advance for a reservation at Orit Pension, 21 Chen Ave.

(tel, orfax6l 68 18), off Jabotinsky St., south of Ha’Atzma’ut Sq., where homey, scrupulously clean rooms, and a common room with The Jerusalem Post make this the best budget bed in town. The pension serves as a center for Scandinavian travelers, but all tourists are welcome. (Reception open 8am-9pm, check-out 10am. No curfew-they’ll give you a key. No smoking. Singles NIS74, doubles NIS128. Breakfast included.) Camping on the beach is an alternative but unsafe for solo women and unguarded valuables. The most popular areas are near the 24-hr, coffee shops which line the shores.

Orientation and Practical Information From the central bus station (tel. 33 70 50) on Binyamin Blvd. (which turns into Weizmann Blvd. farther north), walk a block north to Herzl Street, the town’s main shopping avenue. Turn left on Herzl, and after four blocks you’ll arrive at Ha’Atzma’ut Square (Independence Sq.), an attractive park with a fountain. Opposite the bus station, Sha’ar haGai

Street cuts diagonally from Binyamin Blvd. to Herzl St. Sha’ar haGai St. has less ostentatious shops, cafes, and bakeries, and a large fruit stand. The Government Tourist Information Office (GTIO) is a small, strangely-shaped, red brick building in the southwest corner of Ha’Atzma’ut Sq. (tel. 82 72 86). City maps, bus schedules, and event schedules are available. Open Sun.-Thurs. 8:30am-10pm, Fri. 9am-noon; Sept.-June Sun.-Thurs. 8:30am-7pm, Fri. 9am-noon) The post office at 59 Herzl St. (tel. 62 15 77) offers Poste Restante. Branches are also at 15 Herzl St. (tel. 62 78 68) and 8 Ha’Atzma’ut Sq. (tel. 62 77 97). Open Sun.-Tues. and Thurs. 8am-12:30pm and 3:3O-6pm, Wed. 8am-l:30pm, Fri. 8am-noon. Telephone code: 09.
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Natanya

Founded in the 1920s as an agricultural center, Natanya has grown into Israel’s largest Mediterranean resort (well, excluding Tel Aviv), popular with affluent retirees. This Miami-on-ttie-Med has virtually none of the hostels and self-service restaurants which attract budget travelers. The town’s cultural offerings also cater to an older, wealthier clientele; an orchestra, a bridge club, and even a series of meetings for single tourists overshadow a handful of cinemas, bars, and discos.

Sights

Herzliya Pituah offers a few sights worth seeing in addition to the beach and Sydne Ali mosque. The beautiful Nof Yam Beach Lies lkm north of Herzliya Pituah s hotel-lined main beach, just beyond the dilapidated Sydne Ali mosque. To reach the beach entrance from DeShalit Square, walk north along Galei Tekhelet St. to Golda Meir St. Turn left at the blue sign with a diagram of a sailboat. The mosque and beach are straight ahead. For a more scenic and adventurous route, walk north along Galei Tekhelet St. and turn left onto the dirt path between the residences of the Canadian and American embassies; look for the flags. Continue north along the cliffs and turn left onto the road in front of the mosque.

Perched on a ledge 100m north of the entrance to Nof Yam Beach is an inhabited sandcastle known as the Hermit’s House. Part of it looks [ike a boat over which a peacock has spread its fan, part like a gargoyle, and the rest like nothing you’ve ever seen. Nissim Kakhalon has been building this fantastic structure for the past 24 years with natural sea materials as well as tires, bottles, broken plates, and other debris that washes ashore. Peevish Israeli authorities have so far been unable to oust him. Look for his latest inspired addition, the “sand bar” snack stand, featuring cold drinks and hummus on homemade pita (NIS5) served on a covered veranda. If you can find him, he might be persuaded to give you a tour of his architectural creations and the network of tunnels which he dug to connect them. He may even take you past his henhouse/peacock pen. Plans are in the works for a school to teach people “how to make things.”
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Herzliya Pituah

An affluent Tel Aviv suburb, Herzliya Pituah (the western section of the town of Herzliya) is home to many foreign ambassadors who tan themselves alongside the luxury hotels lining the town’s beautiful beaches.
Practical Information, Accommodations, and Food The closest it gets to budget accommodations in Herzliya Pituah is the Mittelmann Guesthouse, 13 Basel St. (tel. (09) 57 65 44). From DeShalit Square, where the bus from Tel Aviv lets you off, follow Basel St. (lOmin.). Rooms have refrigerators, private showers, and access to kitchen facilities; some are air-conditioned. Best to ring the bell before entering the courtyard so friendly manager Effie can call off his two dogs (singles US$28, doubles US$38).

For dinner, visit one of the many beach-front cafes (some with tables right on the sand) located south of DeShalit Square (NIS7 beach entrance fee during the day; free in the evening). Food is not cheap, but beer price is fairly standard.
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Tel Lakhish iies just north of the moshav of the same name, 2km south of the Beit Guvrin-Hebron road. Although archeologically more important, Tel Lakhish is not as interesting as Tel Maresha. Its strategic location, at the intersection of the road to Egypt and the approach to Jerusalem, often made it a scene of conflict in ancient times. It is mentioned in the Bible (Joshua 10:31-32) as one of the Canaanite cities destroyed by the Israelites.

Excavations have revealed nine levels of settlements dating as far back as the 3rd millennium BC. There are still remains of Canaanite graves and one of their holy sites, but most of the artifacts have been removed to museums in Jerusalem and Britain. In addition, it’s virtually inaccessible without a car, although bus #11 runs to the moshav. Because of this area’s isolation, climate, and proximity to the West Bank, moshavniks strongly discourage camping in these hills.

Around Beit Guvrin

About 22km east of Ashkelon, Kiryat Gat is easily accessible by bus from Tel Aviv (#369, every 15-2Omiii.), Jerusalem (#446, every 20-40min.), and Ashkelon (#25, every 30min.). This small, industrial town is the capital of the Lakhish region-a network of 30 villages established in 1954-and the jumping-off point for exploring several interesting sites. Tel Gat, the hill to the northeast, was formerly believed to be Gath, one of the five major Philistine cities and the birthplace of Goliath. Excavations, however, have failed to unearth any evidence of an ancient capital, Beit Guvrin, a modern kibbutz, was built in 1949 on the ruins of the deserted Arab village of Beit Jibrin. The surrounding region is characterized by huge outcrop-pings of cacti and fig trees, which hide some 3000 caves. Some were carved naturally as water eroded the soft limestone.

Phoenicians carved the others as they scooped limestone out of gigantic holes in the earth for use in the construction of their great port at Ashkelon. As a result, many of the caves have vast bell-shaped rooms with sun roofs. The caves later became natural sanctuaries for hermits and monks of the Byzantine period. St. John and others came here seeking solitude, and often carved crosses and altars into the walls. Modem carving, mutilation, and havoc-were wrought here during the filming of the postmodern epic Rambo III The site is well-tended with marked trails and some facilities.

Yad Mordekhai

There’s a story here. From May 19th to 24th, 1948, during Israel’s War of Independence, the 165 members of Kibbutz Yad Mordekhai withstood an attack by an Egyptian battalion of 2500. Although the kibbutz members eventually had to retreat to nearby Gvar’am, 300 Egyptians were killed, and this delay gave the Hagana time to regroup and save Tel Aviv. To commemorate this deed, the kibbutz has built a model of the battle on the original site, complete with soldiers, tanks, and weapons. A recorded explanation in several languages recounts the battle and various parts of the colossal reconstruction. The kibbutz is named after Mordekhai Anielewicz, leader of the Warsaw Ghetto uprising. A museum (tel. (051) 205 28/9) illustrates the story of the Jewish resistance movement, concluding with exhibits about the establishment of the State of Israel and the battle for Yad Mordekhai. (Museum and battlefield open daily 8am-4pm. Admission NIS3-50, students NIS3.)

Bus #19 runs from Ashkelon to Yad Mordekhai Sunday through Thursday at noon and 6:05pm, and Friday at noon and 4:15pm (NIS4O5). Since the last bus returns at 3:10pm (Fri. 12:40pm.), you’ll have to take the noon bus if you don’t intend to stay. If you get stuck in the late afternoon, go back to the bus stop on the highway anyway: buses from Rafiah pass by, and you may get a ride.

Sights and Entertainment

Ashkelon’s seaside National Park (tel. 73 64 44) is one of the most popular and impressive in Israel. The park was built on the site of 1000-year-old Canaanite remains buried under the ruins of Philistine, Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Crusader, and Muslim cities. The ruins offer extensive evidence supporting Ashkelon’s reputation as the oldest city in the world-competition for this title rages throughout the Middle East. You can pick up a free map of the park, which includes most of the archeological ruins, at the main entrance. (Park open daily 8am-5pm; Oct.-March 8am-4pm. Closes lhr. earlier on Fri. and holiday eves. NIS10, students NIS5.)

Herod the Great, the Hellenized Jewish king who ruled just before the Romans, was bom in Ashkelon. He enlarged and beautified his birthplace, but the most extensive ruins date from the Roman era. The most compact portion of the site, situated in the center of the park, features a Roman colonnade and a haphazard collection of Hellenistic and Roman columns, capitals, and statues, including two magnificent Roman statues of Nike, the winged goddess of victory and distant relative of Bo Jackson.

Accommodations and Food Budget accommodations aren’t available, if you want a roof. The Samson Gardens on 38 HaTamar St. (tel. 73 46 66) is your best bet for a hotel; walk from Zephaniah Sq. through the city park towards the sea, then turn right onto Drom Africa St. and right again onto HaTamar St. The rooms all have phones, radios, A/C, and private bathrooms and showers. Doubles US$47, US$41 in low season. Breakfast included. 15% service charge.) The 70s are rehashed at the Dagon Hotel (tel. 79 72 51), on Afridar Beach; take bus #6 to the old-age home on HaTayassim St. and backtrack 1.5 blocks. Partially an absorption center for new immigrants; the less porous half takes guests (singles US$45, doubles US$56).

The GTIO arranges rentals of private rooms in homes near the Afridar section of town. The price is usually NIS45-50, without meals, and quality varies widely. People also solicit boarders at the bus station and campground. They may begin by asking as much as NIS30 per night, but if you mention camping, prices will quickly plummet to NIS20. These unregulated rooms are often in Migdal, but are usually unmarked and difficult to find.

Practical Information The central bus station (information (03) 537 5555) is on Ben Gurion St. Bus *5 will take you downtown to Zephaniah Square (Merkaz Afridar) in the heart of Afridar, the business center, or to the pedestrian mall (midrahov) in the old Migdal. Bus #13 runs to the beach (July and Aug. only); buses #3 and 9 pass within walking distance of the park behind the beach (ask to get off on Shapiro Rd.). Buses #300, 311, and 362 go to Tel Aviv (every 15min. until 10:30pm, NIS11). Bus #437 runs to Jerusalem (every hr. until 8:15pm, NIS14). Bus #363 or 364 runs to Be’er Sheva (hourly until 9:15pm, N1S10).

Visitors should stop by the gracious Tourist Information Office (tel. 73 24 12) at Zephaniah Sq. (bus #5) for maps and information (open Sun., Mon., Wed., and Thurs. 8:30am-lpm, Tues. 8:30am-12:30pm). Banks, several outdoor cafes, and a frozen yogurt shop are all clustered around the square. The central post office (open Sun.-Tues. and Thurs. 8am-12:30pm and 3:3O-7pm, Wed. and Fri. 8am-noon) is in Migdal on 18 Herzl St.; Poste Restante available. For sherut taxi service to Tel Aviv CNIS7) try Yael Daroma, on Tzahal St. (tel. 75 03 34) in Migdal. The police station is at the corner of HaNassi and Eli Cohen St. (tel. 100 or 7714 44); for first aid call 101 or 72 33 33; for fire tel. 102. Ashkelon’s telephone code is 07.

Ashkelon

Ashkelon’s Mediterranean beaches are like many other stretches of sand on Israel’s coast; the local archeological sites may not be the most engaging piles of nibble in the Holy Land; the rows of shopping malls, cineplexes, and housing projects sprawling across the countryside could be found in a thousand towns around the planet. But 75,000 Israelis call this place home, and if you’re curious to see how they live, make the easy day trip from Tel Aviv.

Ashkelon was first settled in the 3rd millenium BC and is one of the oldest inhab-rted cities in the world. In Bibilical times, Ashkelon was one of the five great cities of the Philistines, and the Bible records its almost continuous conflicts with the Hebrews. Samson, as a young man, “went down to Ashkelon, and slew thirty men of them” (Judges 14:19). When King Saul was killed, David ordered, “Publish it not in the streets of Ashkelon, lest the daughters of the Philistines rejoice” (II Samuel 1:20). The remains of the Biblical city are found in the National Park on the coast south of the city center.

Ashdod

You can come to practice your French, or to see industry relentlessly gulp down land and resources, or, if you’re so inclined, perhaps to view the spot where the whale spat out Jonah. You’ll be disappointed, though, if you come to Ashdod for a blissful rest. If you stay long enough to visit lido Beach, you’ll find a short stretch of popular bars and cafes stalked by enormous cargo ships and spindly cranes from the giant port. Ashdod exists for industry, not the other way around.

In Biblical times, Ashdod was one of the five cities of giants. Although Joshua received accurate information from his spies, he did not stoop to conquer Ashdod, and it was here that the Philistines brought the captured Holy Ark. This former city of Gullivers is now home to some 90,000 residents and, by some measures, the largest port in Israel, having surpassed Haifa. Its expanding industries include textiles, cosmetics, and power plants that produce roughly half the nation’s electricity.

South Of Tel Aviv - Rehovot & Rishon leTzion

Rehovot, a quiet and somewhat secluded town, is known primarily for its world-famous Weizmann Institute of Science, a good afternoon jaunt from Tel Aviv. The institute is named for Israel’s first president, Dr. Hayim Weizmann, who was also a research chemist. During World War I, Weizmann discovered an innovative way to produce acetone, which proved essential to the British military effort (as well as to nail polish removal). Weizmann’s discovery, combined with his formidable character and arguments, helped persuade Lord Balfour to issue the famous 1917 Balfour Declaration favoring the establishment of a Jewish national homeland.

A barren stretch of scrubland has been transformed, through the miracle of irrigation, into the groomed expanse of the institute’s campus. In the southeast corner of the institute stands the Weizmann House (tel. 34 32 30 or 34 33 28), an elegant example of early International style (designed by Erich Mendelssohn), and Israel’s first presidential residence. Dr. Weizmann is buried adjacent to the house. (Tours Sun.-Thurs. every Vzhr. 10am-3:30pm, NIS4.50.) The forested area near the house will provide some relief for the overheated traveler. Near the main entrance to the institute are the Weizmann Archives, holding Dr. Weizmann’s letters and papers.

Tickets for concerts, plays, and other performances can be purchased at Rococo, 93 Dizengoff St. (tel. 524 8824; open Sun.-Thurs. 9am-lpm and 5-7pm, Fri. 9am-lpm.), and Hadran, 90 Ibn Gvirol St., north of Kikkar Malkhei Yisrael (tel. 524 8787). For the most detailed information on performance schedules and other activities in the Tel Aviv area see Tel Aviv Today, Events in Tel A viv, and This Week in Tel Aviv, all free at the GTIO and major hotels.

The Y Studio, 1 IVeriya St. (tel. 522 3615), off Bograshov St., is a theater workshop that teaches and trains actors and directors for the professional stage. Performances are given in English every Monday at 8:30pm. Bikurei ha’Etim Cellar, 6 Helftman St. (tel. 697 9510), offers Israeli folk dancing for all levels, including instruction every Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday at 7pm and 9pm and Friday at 9pm. Call ahead: sometimes classes are geared for experienced dancers. The outdoor theater in Neveh Tzedek, 6 Yehieli St., often has concerts and dance performances. For schedules, call 517 3711. (See also the Suzanne Dallale Center above.) Beit Lessin, 34 Weizmann St. (tel. 695 6222), sometimes has live jazz acts. Call ahead for times and tickets.

Culture

Culture To temper the hedonism, Tel Aviv offers nightly opera, ballet, jazz and classical concerts, and dance performances. It also has more than 40 screens showing anything from the latest Van-Damme flick to Fellini classics. Films are not dubbed, and non-English films often have English sub-titles. The Tel Aviv Cinematheque, 2 Sprinzak St. corner of Carlebach St., has regular screenings and special events. Check the Jerusalem Post for English listings.

Works, Gan ha’Ir shopping mall (on the roof), Ibn Gvirol St. just north of Kikkar Malkhei Yisrael. A new gay bar, particularly lively on weekends.

For live music, try HaKossit, 5 Kikkar Malkhei Yisrael (tel. 522 3244), with blues and jazz performances on Sat., Wed., and Thurs. at 10:30pm; no cover. Logos, 14 Nahalat Binyamin St. (tel. 66 11 76), features rock and blues performances every night at 11 pm; cover varies with band fame.

The Happy Casserole, 344 Dizengoff St. (tel. 604 2360). A wilder, more expensive Israeli hangout. Live music every night, often Israeli folk tunes. When the place gets warmed up, people may start dancing on chairs and singing along. The crowd remains until the musicians collapse. Open daily 10pm-5am.

Gordon’s Pub, 17 Gordon St. (tel. 522 2128). A quiet pub on Tel Aviv’s chic gallery-lined lane. One block from the beach. Bizarre entertainment features old cartoons and computer animation on a 100-in. color video screen-no sound. Maccabees NIS6. Open daily 7:30pm-2am (sometimes until 4 or 5am).

HaShoftim, at the corner of Ibn Gvirol and HaShoftim St. Attracts a slightly older, almost exclusively Israeli crowd; traditionally a pick-up scene. Lively ambience and mellow prices (Maccabee NIS7). No English menus. Open llpm-5am.

The Smoking Dog, 138 Dizengoff St. Psychedelic emblems on the outside, music to match inside. Low key and mostly Israeli crowd. Maccabees NIS8. Happy hour 8pm-10:30pm. Open until 5am.

The Whitehouse, 108 HaYarkon (tel. 524 9876), near Frischmann St. Cheap beer and predominantly Israeli clientele. Open until you leave.

Long John Silver’s, in an alley just off Dizengoff Sq. next to the Ester Cinema; enter through the buildings, (tel. 528 6084). The best of the 3 pubs in the alley. Relaxed atmosphere, cheap drinks, and classic rock music. Open 8:30pm-2:30am, Fri. 10pm-4am.

M.A.S.H.

(More Alcohol Served Here), 275 Dizengoff (tel. 45 10 07). Most popular with tourists. Music from the 60s, 70s, and 80s. Down-and-dirty drinking. Open daily 10am-4am or 5am.

Bars

Tel Aviv also has an array of bars. Many can be found in hostels, where beer is usually slightly cheaper and the crowd international. Most local bars don’t get really crowded before midnight, and late at night you will have a hard time finding a place to sit, especially Thurs., Fri., and Sat. nights. As in many other big cities, weekends bring millions of suburbanites to the big city-bars may be least pleasant then.

A favorite of young local bikers is the bar right below the Gordon Hostel, at the comer of HaYarkon and Gordon St.; beat the crowds and sit there for a spectacular Mediterranean sunset over a cold draught. Last summer the Hard Rock Cafe conglomerate opened a local joint in the Dizengoff Center shopping mall-you can go there after eating in Pizza Hut next door, closing the night in the Bowling Center, under the Shalom Tower (tel. 510 0744), featuring 16 lanes, arcade games, and a snack bar. (Games NIS6, after 6pm N1S10, Fri.-Sat. after 8pm NTS12. Shoes NIS2. Open daily 10am-3 or 4am.) Prices in bars run at around N1S8-9 for a half-liter Goldstar draught and N1S12-20 for hard liquor and cocktails.

Perhaps the hottest bar strip in town is currently (summer 1993) on HaArba’a St. off Carlebach St., near the Tel Aviv Cinematheque. Don’t expect to meet your old college buddies there: it is a local scene. Other places:

Dance and Rock Music

Most of Tel Aviv’s discos open at 10pm, but few truly hop before midnight. The Colosseum, at Atarim Sq. (tel. 527 1177), attracts the largest crowd with its laser and video show. The cover is NIS15 for men, nothing for women. Drinks are fairly inexpensive, but the first three are free. On Saturdays, men pay NIS25 to enter this revolving inferno-and women still get in free. Get the picture? KU, 117 Salameh Rd. (tel. 537 6814), not far from Herzl St., promote themselves as specialists in “Happy House,” soul and funk. (Admission NIS20) (Maccabee N1S8. Open Tues., andFri.-Sat. 12am-6am.)

For deafening reggae and rap, vogue over to Soweto, 6 Frischmann St. (tel. 524 0825), corner of HaYarkon. Admission N1S10 and drinks are inexpensive. (Open nightly 10pm until everyone leaves.) Rosalinda, in the industrial area off the diamond center in Ramat Gan, and Elizabeth, in the Jaffa port (to your right as you enter), are on the trendy side but require special transportation arrangements. Allenby 56, the name is the address (tel. 517 9610), unmarked black door, was in summer ‘93 a hot place for those in the know (Mon.-Sat. 1 lpm-3 or 4am.) Around the corner is Amour at 7 Hillel haZaken St. off HaCarmel, a new name for a traditionally gay-oriented dance club. Brothers, 43 Yehuda Halevi St., is the current hot spot for gays, playing Techno-Pop and some Acid (open Fri. nights only).
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Crowd-Watching, Cafe’s

The Mediterranean art of crowd-gazing can be perfected in Tel Aviv’s streets and cafes. The wide sidewalks of Dizengoff St. are still the most crowded showcase in town. The northern parts of the street, lined with many high-design, liigh-price boutiques, are fit for a relaxed early evening stroll; closer to Dizengoff Square (Kikkar Dizengoff) the crowds may be too dense to even watch. The Kikkar itself is neither pretty nor trendy, but even disdainful Tel Avivians, if asked, will have to point at this circle as the true center of their city. Not even the late-1970s erection of an ugly pedestrian overpass could wane the Kikkar’s appeal; it still is the site of an ever-changing human scene, from retirees basking in the midday sun to late-night punks and drifters cluttering the overpass stairs.

The revolving multi-leveled, multi-colored, water-spurting, fire-spitting fountain, designed by the illustrious Israeli artist Agam (yes, he did the Dan hotel coloring too), crowns the Square with an unsurpassed celebration of municipal entertainment. The times you hear don’t come from an eclectic boom-box; it is the fountain itself, orchestrating its own hourly multi-media show to music ranging from Ravel’s Bolero to Israeli folk songs. It’s like a traffic accident-you don’t want to look, but a morbid fascination takes over.
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Beaches

The Hebrew word for beach is bof. Familiarize yourself also with the flag language of the beach: black means swimming forbidden, red means swimming is dangerous, white means swim at will. Most beaches have lifeguards on duty until 4pm.

Israelis with cars head north for a less crowded and slightly more pristine waterfront, such as the one near Glilot junction on the road to Herzliya, behind the Mandarin hotel (admission NIS7). There is no real reason to do that, however; the beaches within the city are sandy, clean, and free, and all have basic amenities such as showers, toilets, and changing rooms. The beaches are, from north to south: Sheraton, Hilton (behind the Hilton hotel), Gordon, Frischmann (at the ends of those streets), and the Jerusalem beach at the end of Allenby Rd.-the last three are practically one continuous beach. The southern coastline, with fewer amenities and no luxury hotels, tends to be quieter during the day. All of Tel Aviv’s beaches are rife with theft; if possible, lock your valuables away before you hit the sands.
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Entertainment

There are enough cultural activities going on in Tel Aviv to fill an entire vacation; however, most travelers seem to prefer to grease up and fry themselves on the beach during the day, and suck down amber-colored Goldstar at night.

Jaffa

The Clock Tower, ‘built in 1906, marks the entrance to Jaffa. Afree tour of Old Jaffa given by the Association for Tourism of Tel Aviv-Jaffa begins here (Wed. 9:30am; line up at 9am). Next to the clock tower is the minaret of the Al-Mahmudia Mosque, an enormous structure erected in 1812. Entrance is forbidden for non-Muslims. Down Mifratz Shlomo St. from the mosque, the Museum of Antiquities of Tel Aviv-Jaffa (tel. 82 53 75) contains artifacts from nearby sites in Old Jaffa. The columns and capitals scattered about the museum’s courtyard date from the first century BC and were brought here from Caesarea during the 1800s. (Open Sun.-Wed. 9am-2pm, Tues. 9am-7pm. Admission NIS5, students NIS3-)

In front of the museum, on the northern slope, is HaMidron Garden, which offers a fine view of the Tel Aviv coast and skyline. Behind the museum lie the grassy HaPisga Gardens, which contain a small, modern amphitheater as well as an arche-ological site with excavations of an 18th-century BC Hyksos town and a later Egyptian city. A white, ladder-like sculpture dominates one hill in the gardens; its three sections depict the fall of Jericho, the sacrifice of Isaac, and Jacob’s dream. Russian musicians play violin music as you stroll through the park.

Cherry’s, 166 Dizengoff St. (tel. 523 4687) at Ben-Gurion St. Sidewalk tables and air-conditioned interior. Voluminous menu comprising salads and meals (NIS10-20), plus a wide range of desserts. Open daily 8am-2am.

The Great Synagogue stands just east of the Shalom Tower at 110 Allenby St. (tel. 560 4905). Completed in 1926 and renovated in 1970, the domed synagogue is ancient only by Tel Aviv standards. On Friday at sunset, observant Jews make their way toward the synagogue, bringing all traffic on the adjacent street to a halt. (Open Sun.-Fri. 9am-midnight, but only Saturday services arc open for visitors.)

One block south of the synagogue, at 23 Rothschild Blvd., is the home of Eliyahu Golomb, one of the founders and leaders of the Hagana. The house was one of the first buildings erected in Tel Aviv and is now the Hagana Museum (tel. 562 3624). It contains exhibits tracing the development of the IDF (Israel Defense Force) from its beginnings as an underground movement called the Hagana during the British Mandate through the present. Movies dramatize the Yom Kippur War and the Haga-na’s efforts to break the British blockade of ships carrying World War II refugees to Palestine. (Open Sun.-Thurs. 9am-4pm and Fri. 9am-lpm. Admission NIS5, students and children NIS2.)

Sights

The chaos of Shuk haCarmel (Carmel Market) will entertain even the most jaded of tourists. Near the northern entrance to the market, shopkeepers stand behind piles of clothing and footwear, selling “fashions” wliich even the Russian olim (immigrants) choose to admire from afar. Waving polyester undergarments and red plastic sandals, vendors bellow their products’ virtues. Farther south, toward the parking lot, you can buy fresh fruit and vegetables at the lowest prices in the city. Huge mounds of chickens plucked bare make the west side of the market look like the morning after a foul barnyard ritual.

The entrance to the shuk is at Kikkar Magen David at the intersection of Allenby and HaMelekh George St. The community in Kerem haTeimanim (the Yemenite Quarter), northwest off Allenby, retains its traditional, viUage-Uke, crumbly appearance despite the encroachment of stores hawking Simpsons T-shirts. For a more sedate shopping experience, on Tuesdays and Fridays the midrahov of Nahalat Binyamin and Ramban St.-one block south of Shuk haCarmel-becomes a street fair. From 10am4pm (weather permitting) local artists and craftspersons sell jewelry, pottery, paintings, Judaica, and even some bizarre candelabras; the street is also full of magicians, mimes, and musicians. Have a coffee or a beer in one of the many cafes around the Ramban-Nahalat Binyamin intersection.

Chin Chin, 42 Frischmann St. (tel. 524 5802), off Dizengoff. Tasty, greasy approximations of Chinese food. Good service and butterfly-dragon wallpaper. Soups NIS4.5O, entrees average NIS16.50.

There are several good ice cream places in Tel Aviv. Dr. Lek, just up from the Jaffa clock tower on the main road north to the Promenade, has excellent ice cream, but sorbets are their specialty (amazing grapefruit-Campari and date-Rum); another branch on 194 Ben Yehuda St., corner of Jabotinsky. Ben and Jerry’s sell their usual rich concoctions (with local snacks in lieu of American ones) at the northern end of the promenade, below the Ramada Continental Hotel, and on 284 Dizengoff St. between Nordau and Yirmeyahu. Nearby is the superb Glida Be’er Sheva, on the corner of Dizengoff and Nordau, with the biggest and most inventive selection in town. Most ice cream places stay open until lam, and prices run NIS4.5O-5 per cup/ cone of two scoops.

Chin Chin, 42 Frischmann St. (tel. 524 5802), off Dizengoff. Tasty, greasy approximations of Chinese food. Good service and butterfly-dragon wallpaper. Soups NIS4.5O, entrees average NIS16.50.

Acapulco (tel. 523 7552), at the corner of Dizengoff and Frischmann St. Great for a cheap kabab dinner (NIS7). Main dishes NIS9-20. Mouth-watering assortment of desserts: the huge “Blintz Acapulco” is an epicurean orgy (NIS15). Open Sun.-Fri. 6am-lam.

New York Deli, 164 Dizengoff St. (tel. 522 5966). The only restaurant in Israel that makes its own corned beef. Other house specialties include pastrami, beef brisket, and smoked turkey with garlic. Sandwiches NIS20. Open Sun.-Thurs. 9am-lam, Fri. 9am-sundown, Sat. after sundown-lam. Kosher.

Dalas Restaurant, 68 Etzel St. (tel. 37 43 49), in Tel Aviv’s southeastern HaTikva neighborhood. They would have been better off calling it Dali’s Restaurant-the combination of wall-paintings of Southfork Ranch (of the deceased TV series “Dallas") with outstanding Yemenite food is positively surreal. In one of Tel Aviv’s poorer sections, accessible by buses #7a, 15, 16, and 41. Hummus pita (NIS5), delicious Iraqi pita (NISI.50), and kabab (NIS6-11 per skewer) attract many locals. Open Sun-Thurs. llam-2am, Fri. 11am until 1.5hrs. before sundown.

Zion Restaurant, 28 Peduyim St. Follow HaCarmel, the main street of the shuk, to Rambam, turn right, and look for narrow Peduyim St. Yemenite dishes served in a traditional Middle Eastern atmosphere. Brave souls can grab gourmet ox testicles. (Remember this place when your Aunt Sonia tells you to have a ball in Tel Aviv.) Entrees NIS2O-3O. Open daily lOam-lam.

Yemenite Taste, 10 Frischmann St. (tel. 23 41 54). Traditional Yemenite mal-awah served whole with a choice of 13 toppings (NIS5.90-9) or cut into pieces and mixed with 7 choices of ingredients to make sweet fatoot (a dessert; NIS5-8). Good food, location (one block from the beach), prices, and hours (llam-6am).

Cherry’s, 166 Dizengoff St. (tel. 523 4687) at Ben-Gurion St. Sidewalk tables and air-conditioned interior. Voluminous menu comprising salads and meals (NIS10-20), plus a wide range of desserts. Open daily 8am-2am.

Souss Etz, 20 Sheinkin St. (tel. 528 7955). Another hip cafe on this lively street. Salads and pasta NIS16-20, sandwiches NIS15, desserts NIS10. Open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-12:30am, Fri, 8am-6pm, Sat. 5pm-12:30arn.

Cafe Kazze, 19 Sheinkin St. (tel. 29 37 56). Israeli stars can sometimes be seen eating at this trendy cafe. Small tables in airy rooms or garden patio in back. Try the spaghetti (NIS17.50, comes with salad) or the croissants (NIS4.50-6). Open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-midnight, Fri. 8am-4pm. Kosher.

Eternity, 60 Ben-Yehuda St. (tel. 20 31 51). Run by members of the Black Hebrew community, a group originally from the midwestem United States who have settled in Israel. Their dietary laws prohibit both milk and meat, so you’ll find interesting (and neologistic) alternatives, from okia-lafel (NIS6.40) to vege-sebnitzel (NIS8.40) and non-dairy ice cream (made of soybeans, NIS0.95). The vegetable shwarma and barbecue twist are as good as the real thing. Open Sun.-lnurs. 9am-1 lpm, Fri. 9am-3pm (winter 9am-2pm), Sat. after sundown. Kosher.

Picasso (tel. 22 30 60 or 524 0546), corner of HaYarkon and Bograshov St. Trendy-cafe with spectacular views of the sea. Salads NIS20, pasta N1S20-23, desserts NIS12. Open7am-3am.

The Shakespeare, 140 HaYarkon St. (tel. 522 2194) near Gordon St., in the British Council building. This smartly appointed coffee shop with a view provides British TV, newspapers, and light cuisine. Sandwiches and croissants NIS5-11, hot dishes NIS5-13, desserts NIS2-8. Open Mon.-Thurs. 8am-8pm. Fri. 8am-lpm.

Big Mamma, 22 Rabbi Akiva St. (tel. 517 5096), off HaCarmel. Pass through ghostly, after-hour market stands to back-alley entrance. Eerie location and excellent, inventive toppings on crisp crusts make this the Israeli pizza joint. Onions, mushrooms, pepperoni, zucchini, and egg cover the Big Mamma Special (N1S20). Pizzas (NIS15-20). Excellent, if expensive, desserts. Open nightly 8pm-4am.

Cafe B’Nordau, 230 Ben-Yehuda St. (tel. 544 1735), on the corner of Nordau. Botanical life from the plant shop next door spills over into this cozy restaurant. Largely, though not exclusively, gay clientele. Tasty light meals (NIS14-26), and delicious cakes and pies (NIS10-11). Open Sun.-Fri. 8am-2am, Sat. 10am-2am.

Lokshen and Schnitzel, 49 Ibn Gvirol St. (tel. 695 5730), two blocks north of HaNevi’im corner. The owner’s mission of bringing “gourmet food to the streets” is behind this sophisticated yet affordable place. A Hebrew-only menu for a young, trendy, non-tourist crowd includes curry pasta, teriyaki schnitzel, or pasta in a whiskey cream sauce for NIS15. Desserts NIS6.5O. Open Sun.-Fri. noon-lam, Sat. Ipm-lam.

Kerem haTeimanim (the Yemenite Quarter), between Shuk haCarmel and the beach, houses many moderately priced Yemenite and Middle Eastern restaurants between its small red-roofed houses and narrow streets. Maganda, 26 Rabbi Meir St. (tel. 517 9990 or 66 18 95), Shaul’s Inn, 11 Eliashiv St. (follow the signs) (tel. 517 7619), and Zion Restaurant (see below) all serve such delicacies as brains and lungs, but the prices take guts (entrees NIS14-3O). You can always fall back on the old reliable: a hummus platter for NIS6.

Dizcngoff Sq. and the stretch of Dizengoff Street just north of the Square are lined with the gamut of intercontinental cuisine. Pizza parlors, blintz joints, and hot-dog stands offer their merchandise among stick)’ crowds and exhaust-spitting vehicles; you are even invited to sit down, an experience which you may find interesting, if not quite appetizing. Still, the high turnover renders a slice of pizza, a sandwich, or burekas a viable choice here. Go farther north on Dizengoff for cleaner-appearing, but dwindling, options.

Food

Finding a decent place to eat in Tel Aviv can sometimes be frustrating. Simple-looking eateries often live up to your low expectations, while higher prices usually mean more sophisticated decor and chic clientele rather than higher-quality food and service. For sure, you can get excellent food in Tel Aviv-in your choice of cuisine, from Russian to Argentinian, and everything in between-but good establishments may be out of the way, or have erratic schedules, or be too expensive, or have a new, novice chef, or any combination of the above.

For quick, cheap belly-fillers, head for the self-service eateries on Ben-Yehuda St. or the innumerable falafel stands; those around Shuk haCarmel and along Bezalel St. off Allenby and HaMelekh George stay open the latest. Yosi-Let’s Eat, at the intersection of Ben-Yehuda and Bograshov St., is closer to the beach scene (falafel NIS5, shwarma NIS7). Most places let you customize your falafel with a variety of self-serve toppings.

Miami Hotel, 8 Allenby St. (tel. 510 3868), near the beach and the new Opera Tower shopping complex. Small but comfortable and clean rooms with plenty of light, phone, and bathrooms with shower. Singles NIS80, doubles NIS100.

The Hostel, 60 Ben-Yehuda St., 4th floor (tel. 528 7088 or 528 1500). Convenient, if lofty, location. Inexpensive but somewhat dark and more regimented than other hostels. Lights and TV off at midnight. Check-out by 9:30am. Closed for cleaning until lpm. Curfew 2am. Dorm beds (8 per room) NIS21, doubles NIS60, triples N1S75, quads NIS 132.

Immanuel House Christian Hospice, 12 Beer Hoffmann St. (tel. 82 14 59 or 82 98 17), in Jaffa, at the corner of Auerbach. Take bus #44 or 46 and get off after the gas station on Eilat St. A neat, friendly, relaxing place far from sights and action. Built by Peter Ustinov’s father. Reception open 7am-lpm and 2-1 lpm. Check-out by 10am. Lockout 10am-2pm. Curfew 11pm. 5-day max. stay. Dorm beds (10 per room) NIS3O-4O. Singles NIS92, doubles NIS162, triples NIS200-250. Breakfast included. Professional chef cooks lunch (NIS20) or supper (NIS12) on request.

The Home, 106 HaYarkon St., corner of 6 Frischmann St. (tel. 522 2695, fax 524 0815). Conveniently located studio apartments for long-term visits (7-day min. stay). Newly renovated rooms are spotless, cozy, and fully furnished with carpeting, small refrigerators, hot plates, and private bathrooms. New balconies overlook the sea.

TV available for small fee, and telephones supplied with US$100 deposit. A/C. Singles US$250 per week. Some doubles and triples available. 10% discount for students with ISIC Reception open daily 9am-2pm. Hotel Nes Tziona, 10 Nes Tziona St. (tel. 510 3404 or 510 6084), just off Ben-Yehuda St. Superb location and service. Subdued, with an older clientele. 24-hr, reception. Check-out by noon. Of its 22 rooms, 16 have showers, 8 have bathrooms, and 11 have sinks. Some rooms with A/C; free fans on request. Singles NIS50-70, doubles NIS80-90, triples NIS100-120.

Traveler’s Hostel III, 44 Ben-Yehuda St. (tel. 525 2993 or 525 3101). New hostel ran by the same owner as the other Traveler’s. Going for a clean, no-alcohol environment. Reception open 7am-2am. Check-out by noon. No lockout. Dorm beds (6 per room) NIS20. Doubles with showers NIS80. Breakfast included. Laundry NISI 5.

Traveler’s Hostel, 38 Ben-Yehuda St. (tel. 525 0999, fax 560 6659). Small but clean, with cable TV and bar in garden below. A touch shabby. Reception open 7am-3am. Check-out by 10am. Lockout 10:30am-12:30pm. Curfew 3am (visitors may obtain a key by leaving their passports). Kitchen facilities. Coed and single-sex dorms (6 per room) NIS20 per bed, doubles NIS70, includes breakfast (served 8-10am). Wash and dry NISI 5. Will arrange visas to Egypt, cheap flights, jobs.

Momo’s Hostel, 28 Ben-Yehuda St. (tei. 528 7471). Another centrally located hostel near the beach. Rooftop sunning a pleasant bonus. Bar downstairs has gritty, relaxed biker atmosphere. Snack bar serves cheap food (NIS4 for a hamburger). Reception open 24 hrs. Check-out by 11am. No lockout or curfew. Free use of safe. TV and VCR in bar. Kitchen facilities. Roof mattress NIS15. Coed and single-sex dorms (4-8 per room) NTS 18 per bed; add NIS2 for breakfast. Doubles NIS60. Lockers NISI per day. Laundry service.

Gordon Hostel, 2 Gordon St. (tel. 522 9870, fax 524 7764), corner of HaYarkon St. Great location near the beach, with several rooms looking onto the Med. Be advised: the rooftop bar (open 4pm-midnight), outdoor bar (open all night), and bustling HaYarkon St. may be ideal for partiers but too noisy for others. Same ownership as the No. 1 Hostel. Kitchen facilities, free coffee and tea in reception/ TV room. Arranges cheap flights and tours. Arrive early in the day. Reception open 24 hrs. Check-out by 10am. Lockout llam-2pm. No curfew. Roof mattress NIS18. Coed and single-sex dorms (4-8 per room) NIS22 per bed. Hot meals for NIS6-8. Lockers NIS3; free use of safe for documents.

The Greenhouse, 201 Dizengoff St. (tel. 523 5994). Take bus #5 all the way up Dizengoff. Extremely clean, airy rooms, no bunk beds; kitchen facilities, spotless showers, great location, telephone, and no curfew. Coffee, beer, and soda sold in a home)’ TV room. Rooftop bar open until l-2am (only in summer). Beach campers can use shower and kitchen facilities for NIS7. Reception open 7-I0am and 2:30pm-midnight. Lockout 10am-2:30pm. Coed and single-sex dorms NIS30 per bed. Doubles NIS69. Apartments for 2, NIS120; for 3, NIS156. Lockers NIS3-5 per day. Wash and dry NIS18.

No. 1 Hostel, 84 Ben-Yehuda St., 4th floor (tel. 523 7807). Conveniently located within 2 blocks of the sea. Bus #4 runs along Ben-Yehuda. Sun-filled reception lounge has cable TV as well as panoramic views of the city. 24-hr, reception. Check-out by 10:30am. Lockout llam-2pm. No curfew. Private rooms have showers and fans. Kitchen closes at 1 lpm. Free use of safe. In summer, roof mattress NIS20. Coed and single-sex dorms (4, 6, or 8 per room) NIS24 per bed. Private room (double bed) NIS70. Breakfast included. Lockers NIS3 per day. Wash NIS4. Dry NIS4.

Shanbo, 25 Lilienblum St. (tel. 510 6739), off Allenby Rd. A new, laid-back hostel with a bright and airy open courtyard where parties are held every Fri. afternoon (occasional live bands). Free airport pick-up if you make reservations in advance. Reception open 24 hrs. Check-out by noon. No lockout or curfew. Roof mattress NIS15. Coed and single-sex dorms (8 per room) NIS22 per bed. Doubles NIS66. Wash and dryNIS15.

Old Yafo Hostel, 8 Olei Tzion St. (tel. 82 23 70; fax 82 23 16), right in the middle of Shuk haPishpeshim (flea market) in the center of Jaffa. Take bus #10, 25, or 46 to the clock tower and turn left onto Olei Tzion just a few blocks south. The neighborhood may be creepy, especially at night, but this recently-restored, clean, friendly place is one of Tel Aviv’s best hostels. Well-run and supported by an efficient computer system; visitors can enjoy meals on credit and pay at checkout. If you fax them a reservation and arrival time, they’ll send a free van to pick you up at the airport. Check-in 8am-midmght. Check-out noon. No lockout, no curfew. Roof mattress NIS14, dorm beds (10 per room) NIS18, rooftop “bungalow” NIS19, doubles NIS58. Slightly cheaper Sept.-June. Israeli breakfast or omelette NIS5, all-you-can-eat vegetarian dinner NIS6, beer NIS3.5O. Free use of kitchen and safe. Laundry machine (NIS8).

Sea Sun Hostel, 62 HaYarkon St. (tel. and fax 517 3313), corner of Nes Tziona. Spacious new hostel with views of the sea welcomes both individual travelers and tour groups (discount for groups of 20-plus). A/C and private baths in all rooms. Roof deck. Bar downstairs still under construction in summer, 1993. Free airport pick-up for groups of 5 or more. Reception open 24 hrs. Flexible check-out. Lockout 1 lam-2pm. No curfew. Co-ed and single-sex dorms (4-14 per room) N1S20 per bed. Wash and dry NfSlO. Lockers NIS5.

Dizengoff Square Hostel, 11 Dizengoff Sq. (tel. 522 5184; fax 522 5181). Newly renovated with balconies overlooking the vibrant pedestrian plaza surrounded by restaurants, bars, cinemas, and shops. Drinks and barbecue available on the rooftop terrace. Reception open 24 hrs. Check-out by 1 lam, lockout llam-2pm. No curfew. Kitchen and lockers available. Co-ed and single-sex dorms NIS22 per bed. Doubles NIS60. Wash and dry NIS4 each.

Tef Aviv Youth Hostel (HI), 36 B’nei Dan St. (tel. 544 1748 or 546 0719; fax 544 1030), in north Tel Aviv. A bit far from the city center, but in a quiet and attractive residential neighborhood; buses #5, 24, and 25 have stops nearby. All rooms have A/C and private baths. Lobby with snack bar and candy machines. Cafeteria serves dinner (NIS21; open 7-8pm). Two wheelchair-accessible rooms. Reception open 24 hrs., check-out before 11am. No lockout or curfew. Co-ed and single-sex dorms NIS39 per bed. Singles NIS81, doubles NISI 12. Non-members add NIS3. Lockers available for NIS4 per day. Breakfast included.

Accommodations

Most of Tel Aviv’s cheap hostels are located on or around Ben-Yehuda and Dizengoff St. You can also find a few hostels and cheaper hotels near the beach on and fust off Allenby Rd. and HaYarkon St. Check the noise level before you take any room, because in most cases what you hear at midday will continue through most of the night. Hostels in Tel Aviv fill up quickly, especially during the summer; call ahead to m;ike reservations. Prices drop by about 10% in the off-season. Paying in foreign currency’ will save you the 18% VAT. Sleeping on the beach is illegal, and you should be aware that there have been many cases of theft and sexual assault; solo women in particular should not sleep on beaches. If you must, go as far north as possible (staying south of the port) and sieep on your wallet.

Help Lines: Rape Crisis, 523 4819, 24 hrs. Drug Counseling, 546 3587, Sun.-Thurs. 8am-8pm. Gay and Lesbian Hotline, White Line (HaKav haLavan), 29 27 97. Sun., Tues.. and Thurs. 7:30-ll:30pm. English spoken in all. Pharmacy: HaGalil Pharmacy, 80 Ben-Yehuda St. (tel. 522 3358). English spoken. Open Sun.-Fri. 8:30am-8pm.

Ben-Yehuda Pharmacy, 142 Ben-Yehuda St. (tel. 522 3535). Open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-lpm and 4-7pm, Fri. 8am-5pm. Super-pharm in Dizengoff Center and other locations is more drugstore-like. There arc no 24-hr, pharmacies in Tel Aviv. Two are open until 1 lpm every night on a rotating schedule, and are on-duty for night and Sbabbat calls. Schedules and phone numbers available on any pharmacy door and in newspapers. Fire: Tel. 102. First Aid: Tel. 101. Police: Tel. 100.

Laundry: 51 Ben-Yehuda St. (tel. 522 2954). Coin-operated washers and dryers. Wash NIS8, soap NISI.50. Dry NIS7 for ‘/ihr. For NIS3 more, they’ll do it for you. Folding N1S4. Open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-6pm, Fri. 8am-2pm. Bu’ot, 49 Sheinkin (tel. 29 20 94). For NIS21 they will pick up and clean up to 6kg of laundry and drop it off on your doorstep. Ironing is NIS5 per item, folding NIS4. Your hostel may be cheaper.

Library: American Cultural Center, 1 Ben-Yehuda St., Migdalor Bldg., 5th floor, (tel. 510 6935). Open Mon.-Thurs. 10am-4pm, Fri. 10am-2pm. British Council Library, 140 HaYarkon St. (tel. 522 2194). Both offer English-language books, newspapers and magazines to the public, as well as peaceful A/C-ed havens. Camping Supplies: LaMetayel, Dizengoff Center, Gate 3 or 5 (tel. 528 6894), near the Lev Cinema. The largest and cheapest camping store in Israel.

Books, maps, guides, information, and a full range of equipment; meet young Israelis gearing up for their post-military grand tour of Nepal and Thailand. Open Sun.-Thurs. 9:30am-7:?0pm and Fri. ‘9:3Oam-2pm. Maslool Travellers’ Equipment and Information Center, 36 Ben-Yehuda St. (tel. 528 8418). Open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-8pm, Fri. 8am-3pm. HaYehida, 25 Tchernihovsky St. (tel. 517 0260), off Bia-lik. Open Sun.-Thurs. 9am-7pm, Fri. 9am-3pm, Sat. from sundown until 10pm. Jewish National Fund (Keren Kayemet leYisrael): 96 HaYarkon St., near Mendele St. (tel. 523 4367). Organizes transportation to the Modi’in Forest, where you can plant a tree (US$10) with your own paws. Transportation (US$7) leaves from the Keren Kayemet Building. Reservations required.

English Bookstores: Pollak’s Used Books, 36 HaMelekh George St. (tel. 528 8613), has a 100-year tradition of buying and selling used books. Open Sun.-Fri. 9am-l:3Opm and 4-7pm. Book Boutique, 170 Ben-Yehuda St. Best used bookstore in town. Over 13,000 titles, including out-of-print books and best-sellers. Good conversation as well. Open Sun.-Thurs. 10am-7pm, Fri. 10am-3pm. Ste-imatzky, 101 Dizengoff St. (tel. 527 0025) and 109 Dizengoff St. (tel. 522 1513). Open Sun.-Thurs. 9am-10pm, Fri. 9am-3pm. Also a branch at 107 Allenby St. (tel. 29 92 77), Open Sun.-Thurs. 8:30am-7pm, Fri. and holidays 8:30am-2pm. Other branches in shopping malls.

Car Rental: Avis (tel. 38 42 42), US$72 (in summer US$93) per day with insurance. Budget (tel. 562 1292), US$66 per day with insurance. Eldan (tel. 638 2525), 3-day min. US$159. Hertz (tel. 562 2121), US$73 per day with insurance. Prices in shekels are considerably higher in some cases. Legal driving age is 17, but most agencies will only rent to persons 24 or older with a credit card. Most major car rental agencies honor an American license. Others should procure an international driving license. Shopping Hours: In general, 8:30am-Ipm and 4-7pm, but many places stay open until 10pm, especially those in shopping malls.

Taxis: Salomon St., opposite the old central bus station, for cars to the suburbs, Haifa, and Jerusalem. (May move closer to new station location.) Allenby Rd. at HaMoshavot Sq. to most other major cities. Cost about the same as buses. Sherut taxis also run nights, Fri. evenings and Sat., with a 20% surcharge. Specie/ (private) taxis operate with meters-insist on it.

Ferries: Mano Passenger Lines, Ltd., 97 Ben-Yehuda St. (tel. 522 4611). Books tickets on ships to Cyprus. Boats leave Sun. and Tues. 7:30pm from Haifa. One way US$68 (Apr.-Oct.). Port tax additional US$18. Open Sun.-Thurs. 9am-6pm, Fri. 9am-lpm. Caspi, l Ben-Yehuda St. (tel. 517 5749)- Boats to Cyprus, Rhodes

(US$78; Sept. 21-June 6 US$70), and Piraeus (US$82; Sept. 21-June 6 US$74). Port tax additional US$18. (Sec also Budget Travel above.)

Intercity Buses: Egged buses currently operate from 3 spots (see Orientation for more information). Arlozorov terminal, near the central train station, is perhaps most convenient and is also cheapest for connection to major cities; Jerusalem, #480 direct (Sun.-Thurs. every 10-15min. 6am-10pm; Fri. every 15-20min. 6am-4pm; Sat. every 15-20 min. sundown-lOpm; NIS9.50, students NISS.50); Haifa, #980 direct (Sun.-Thurs. approx. every 20min. 6am-8:30pm; Fri. every 15-20min. 6am-4pm, Sat. every 15-2()min. sundown-9pm; NIS10, students NIS9); Be’er Sheva, #380 direct (Sun.-Thurs. every Vihr. 6am-8pm, Fri. every 15-3Omin. 6am-3:45pm, Sat. every Mhr. sundown-10pm; NIS10, students NIS9). From new central station (6th fir.) to: Jerusalem, #405 direct (every I0-15min., Sun.-Thurs. 5:45am-l 1:30pm, Fri. 5:45am-5pm, Sat. sundown-mid.; NIS12, students NIS11); Haifa, #900 direct (every 10-20 min., Sun.-Thurs. 5:45am-9pm, Fri. 5:45am-4:30pm, Sat. sundown-10:30pm; NIS12.50, students NISI 1.50); Be’er Sheva, #370 direct (every 15-20min., Sun-Thurs. 5:45am-8pm, Fri. 5:45am-4:20pm, Sat. sun-down-lOpm; N1S13.5O, students NIS12). Later service by local lines. Call 537 5555 for Egged information.

Trains: Information (tel. 542 1515) open 6am-8pm. Several trains to Haifa, Nat-anya, and Nahariya leave from the central train station (Arlozorov St. across Haifa Rd.) approx. every hour on the hour Sun.-Thurs. 6am-5pm, Fri. Sam, 10am, and noon. One train to Jerusalem leaves Sun.-Fri. at 8:15am from B’nei Brak near Ramat Gan Stadium, returning at 4pm. 20% student discount. Much slower (2Vihr.), but more scenic and slightly cheaper (NIS10) than bus ride (NISI 1). Take bus #62 or 64 from Ben-Yehuda to the station. The Hebrew word for train is rake-vet.

Local Buses and Sherut taxis: See under Orientation.

Airport: Ben-Gurion Airport, 22km southeast of Tel Aviv in Lod. For recorded information about flights on all airlines, call 973 1122. Egged bus #475 to the airport leaves from the new central station (6th flr.) every 20min., Sun.-Thurs. 5:10am-4pm (NIS4.80). United Tours shuttle bus #222 stops by major hotels on HaYarkon St. and the El Al terminal at the central train station; buses every hr. (Sun.-Fri. 4am-midnight, Sat. noon-midnight; Whr.; NIS8). Taxis from the airport to Tel Aviv run at a fixed tariff, not by the meter (about NIS45; NIS2 extra for each baggage item, 25% extra night and Shabbat).

Telephones: Bezek, 13 Frischmann St., is most convenient for international calls. Open Sun.-Thurs. 9am-llpm, Fri. 8am-2:3Opm, Sat. 8:30pm-midnight. For more information on international calls, see Communications in Once There. Telephone code: 03.

Post Office: 7 Mikveh Yisrael St. (tel. 564 3651 or 564 3653 or toll free 177 022 2121), 2 blocks east of the south end of Allenby St. Open Sun.-Thurs. 7am-6pm. Fri. 7am-noon; Post Restante service open Sun.-Thurs. 6-10pm (tel. 564 3660); telegraph office providing fax, telegram, and telex services open 24 hrs., including Shabbat. The post office on Zamenhoff St. just off Dizengoff Sq. is open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-7pm, Fri. 8am-2pm. Other branches around the city are usually open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-12:30pm and 3:3O-6pm, Fri. 8am-l or 2pm; ask for the nearest do’ar. Fax services available at most branches. Telegrams can be sent from any post office or hotel, or by dialing 171.

Thomas Cook: Unitours Israel, Ltd., 90a HaYarkon St. (tel. 527 1111; fax 523 9099 or 523 9299). Thomas Cook’s head office in Israel; currency exchanged, traveler’s checks bought, sold, and refunded, and travel arrangements made.

American Express: Meditrad, Ltd., 16 Ben-Yehuda St. (tel. 29 46 54). May be moving in 1994. Mail held. Cardholders can buy Travelers Cheques with personal checks (with a passport and 1.25% charge) for up to $1000 every 21 days. Travel agency offers discounts for cardholders, but doesn’t change Cheques. Open Sun.-Thurs. 9am-5pm.

Currency Exchange: Most banks open Sun., Tues., and Thurs. 8:30am-12:30pm and 4-5:3Opm, Mon., Wed., Fri., and holidays 8:30am-12:30pm. Main bank offices: Bank HaPoalim, 104 HaYarkon St. (tel. 520 0606); Israel Discount, 2~ Yehuda haLevi St. (tel. 514 5555); Bank Leumi, 130 Ben-Yehuda St. (tel. 520 3737). First International, 9 Ahad ha’Am St. (tel. 519 6111). Branches throughout the city and suburbs. Some banks in hotels stay open later. Israel Discount has branches in: the Hilton Hotel, Independence Park (tel. 524 5429: open Sun.-Thurs. Sam-noon and 2:3O-7:30pm, Fri. 8-ll:30am); the Dan Hotel, 59 HaYarkon St. (tel. 523 3283; open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-2pm and 3:15-7:3Opm, Fri. 8am-noon); anu the Sheraton, 115 HaYarkon St. (tel. 515 3332); open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-noon and 2-8pm, Fri. and holidays Sam-noon.

Embassies and Consulates: U.S., 71 HaYarkon St. (tel. 517 4338). American citizens services open Mon.-Fri. 8am-l lam (tel. 517 0018, public information tel. 517 5151). For emergencies when closed call 517 4347. Canada, 220 HaYarkon St. (tel. 527 2929). Open Mon.-Thurs. 8am-4:3Opm, Fri. 8am-l:30pm. Visa and passport section, 7 Havakuk St. (tel. 546 2878), 1 block north of embassy. Open Mon.-Fri. 8am-noon, or by phone 1:304pm. Australia, 37 King Sha’ul St., 4th floor (tel. 695 0451). Open Mon.-Thurs. 8-llam. Travelers from New Zealand should contact the Australian embassy. U.K., 192 HaYarkon St. (tel. 510 0166). Open Mon.-Fri. 8am-lpm. Applications for visas and letters of consent, Mon.-Fri. 8-ll:30am. South Africa, 8 Sha’ul haMelekh Blvd. (tel. 696 6147). Egypt, 54 Basel St. (tel. 546 4151/2, fax 544 1615), just off Ibn Gvirol St. Visa section open Sun.-Thurs. 9-1 lam. Bring your passport, a photo, and NIS50 (NIS40 for Americans). Get there early. Pick up your passport with visa at lpm.

Budget Travel

Budget Travel: ISSTA, 109 Ben-Yehuda St. (tel. 527 0111). at Ben-Gurion St. Cheap plane and ferry fares, tours, and information. For an ISIC, bring a photo, proof of student status, and NIS25. Open Sun.-Thurs. 8:30am-lpmand 3-6pm, Fri. 8:30am-lpm. Other branches in Djzengoff Center and Tel Aviv University. GSTS International, 57 Ben-Yehuda St. (tel. 527 8049 or 527 8054). next to the GTIO. Cheap fares on scheduled airlines, charters, train and boat tickets, car rental, and hotel bookings. Open Sun.-Thurs. 8:30am-lpm and 3:30-6pm, Fri. 8:30am-lpm.

Tours: Society for the Protection of Nature in Israel (SPNI): 4 HaShfela St. (tel. 37 50 63). between Petah Tikva Rd. and HaSharon St. Open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-5pm, Fri. 8-11:30am. English-guided hiking trips to all parts of the country, year-round. Most tours venture far off the tourist track, and last from 1 day (US$44) to 7 days (up to US$310). Neot HaKikar, 78 Ben-Yehuda St. (tel. 522 8161/2/3). Good for guided tours in the Sinai and Egypt by foot, jeep, camel, or your own combination. 1-day Sinai Desert Safari to St. Catherine’s US$53. 4 days in 3-star hotels in Egypt US$175, and 6 days of camel-trekking in Sinai US$310. Egged Tours, 59 Ben Yehuda St. (tel. 527 1212 or 527 2219), offers various guided tours around the country and to the Sinai; day tours are about USS45-55.

Practical Information

Government Tourist Information Office (GTIO): 5 Shalom Aleichem (tel. 510 1451), near the beach between HaYarkon St. and Ben-Yehuda St. Maps of Tel Aviv and other cities. Schedules of cultural events. An excellent new computer system puts all the information you need on accommodations, food, shopping, and tours at your fingertips. Limited number of tickets to the Israeli Philharmonic. Open Sun.-Thurs. 8:30am-6pm, Fri. 8:30am-2:30pm.

Transportation

Tel Aviv is easily manageable by foot. Only sights north of the Yarkon, in the Ramat Aviv area, or in Jaffa, are beyond a reasonable walking distance from the city center. But in a muggy August afternoon, a comfortable bus ride across town may be just too tempting; most buses in Tel Aviv are frequent, comfortable, and air-conditioned.

Opened in August, 1993, the New Central Bus Station, a concrete monster on Levinsky St. in the dilapidated south of town, claims to be “the world’s biggest commercial and transportation center.” While most of the commercial part still awaits occupants, and many doubt the viability of this huge project-which had been largely completed by 1973 when funds ran dry, and then stood empty for 20 years-veterans of the old station will not believe their eyes.

Orientation

Located in the center of Israel’s Mediterranean coastline, Tel Aviv is 63km (bus ride 50min.) west of Jerusalem, and 95km (bus ride lHhr.) south of Haifa.

The two main points of entry into Tel Aviv are Ben-Gurion Airport (at Lod) and its two bus terminals. Although there is frequent bus service from the airport, the raging hostel-war in Tel Aviv has led several establishments to send vans to pick up potential clients.

As a prominent early Tel Aviv architect, Ariyeh Sharon, put it, the city “just growed.” This is not entirely true: much of the haphazard street layout was actually carefully planned, following the 19th-century English “garden s