Food

The influence of Greek, Persian, and Turkish cuisine (and French influence in Alexandria) flavors much of Egyptian fare. Since Egyptian food often wreaks havoc with unhabituated digestive systems, it is mistakenly reputed to be strongly spiced. Actually, it can be rather bland. Plentiful helpings of Egyptian food are available for LE2 or less, but avoid the cheapest street vendors; uninitiated stomachs are bound to protest vehemently within a few hours.

Egyptians meals are generally large and hot, and are eaten with flat loaves of bread. Kabab consists of meat roasted on a skewer with salad, dip, and pita bread. Kufta is a spiced ground meat wrapped around a skewer and roasted. Chicken is much cheaper and more widely eaten than beef or mutton. But because meat of any sort is a luxury most Egyptians cannot afford regularly, the most common food is fuul (brown or black beans served mashed or whole with oil, salt, lemon juice, and sometimes an egg or small pieces of meat; pronounced “FOOL") and kushari (a mixture of macaroni, rice, lentils, and tomato sauce). For an exclusively Egyptian dish, try molokhaya, a thick, spicy, green stew made from a flat leaf (lew’s Mallow) cooked either by itself or with pieces of chicken, Iamb, or rabbit.

Music

Egyptian music falls into the larger category of Arabic music that, between the 7th and 10th centuries, was so highly esteemed by Middle Easterners that they took hyperprotective measures against the infiltration of musical trends from the West. Traditional Arabic music therefore has retained its distinct and mesmerizing quality. While Western classical music is characterized by mellifluous harmonies, Arabic music favors simple, extended melodic fines. Usually a single instrument speaks the melody while in the background percussion instruments chant.

In earlier centuries, musicians of the Arab world shunned any Western influence, but they now try to integrate sounds of the West into their works almost indiscriminately. It’s Western, therefore it’s good, think those Egyptian songwriters as yet blissfully unaware of the existence of Milli VanilH. While Western musical trends are more and more becoming a part of current Egyptian music, though, the latter still has its foundation in traditional Arabic music. This peculiar combination may surprise the unaccustomed ear, but it has an alluring, mysterious quality to it. You will likely hear Umm Kolthum, the Frank Sinatra of not just Egypt but the entire Arab world for over 50 years, smoking the airwaves.

The Arts - Literature

Most of the writings of the ancient Egyptians deal with magic and religion in such orks as the Book of the Dead. Poetic love songs, however, were written as well. The Song of the Harper advises immediate gratification in the face of transitory life. Folklore was not as often preserved in stone but The Tale of the Eloquent Peasant has survived to tell of a slippery peasant and his travails.

Modern literature offers insights into the nation’s culture and curiosities. In 1988 Cairene novelist Nagnib Mahfouz became the first Arab to win the Nobel Prize for literature. His Midaq Alley describes the life of a stifled young girl along the streets of Islamic Cairo in the 1960s, and his classic allegory Children ofGebelawi, banned in Egypt, retells the stories of the Qur’an in a modem Cairo setting. Mira-mar (about life in an Alexandrian hotel), Fountain and Tomb, Palace Walk, and others are also readily available in translation. Yusuf Idris, a leading short-story writer, offers a witty account of modern Egyptian middle-class life in his Cheapest Nights.

Sunallah Ibrahin’s The Smell of It, a semi-autobiographical account of his difficulties after his release from prison, was censored in all Egyptian editions, but you may be able to get an unabridged copy in the West. For a range of Egyptian fiction, read Arabic Short Stories, edited by Mahmoud Mamalaoui. The Egyptian theater of the absurd is mostly composed of Tawfik al-Hakim’s Fate of the Cockroach and Other Plays. One of the more prominent feminists from developing countries is Nawai el-Saadawi.

Language

One of the earliest forms of writing was Egyptian hieroglyphics (sacred carvings). This script was used for 3000 years in all formal and decorative writing. In 1799 Napoleon’s Egyptian expedition discovered the Rosetta Stone, which provided the necessary clues for interpreting ancient Egyptian. The slab contained a decree written in hieroglyphics, Demotic, and Greek. Jean Champollion used the stone (now in the British Museum) to decipher the Egyptian alphabet and hieroglyphics.

Alongside this cumbersome pictorial system developed the hieratic, an abbreviated cursive script, which retained only the vital characteristics of the pictures. After the 22nd dynasty, scribes changed the hieratic writing to a form known as Enchorial or Demotic, used primarily in secular contexts. The Book of the Dead was translated into this script. Well before the end of the Roman reign in Egypt, hieroglyphics had been fully replaced by Demotic, Greek, and Latin. Egyptian no longer served as the state language.

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Religion, Festivals, and Holidays

The most common religion in Egypt is Islam; about 94% of the population is Sunni Muslim. Most other Egyptians are Christian Orthodox of the Coptic, or Egyptian, Church. Smaller religious minorities include Shi’i Muslims, Protestants, Roman Catholics, and Jews. (See Religion in Essentials.)

Of the several mawlid (birthdays) celebrated throughout the country, the most important is Mawlid an-Mabi, the birthday of the prophet Muhammad (Aug. 30). Smaller, local mawlids take place in mosques or at the shrines of particular religious figures. Check with tourist offices for details. Also festive are the two Sufi rituals of Zikr and Zahr. In the former, a rhythmic group dance builds in fervor, and the group members become whirling dervishes, mesmerized into a communal trance. The latter is a group dance performed by women, primarily as an exorcism rite. Both rituals are practiced on Fridays in many populous areas.
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Economy

At the beginning of this century, Egypt was the richest of the Arab nations. However, Egypt’s population growth and shortage of arable land have greatly inhibited its economic development. All but 4% of Egypt is desert, and what is fertile is overcrowded. Nonetheless, Nasser’s land reform greatly altered the economy’s complexion; in 1952 3% of the population owned more than half of the land, while now no one may own more than 50 acres.

About half of the Egyptian labor force works in the agricultural sector, growing primarily cotton, corn, rice, and grain. A growing proportion of workers are involved in manufacturing, which now accounts for as much income as agriculture. The government employs almost all the rest of the work force in its colossal bureaucracy. As the population grows at nearly 2.3% per year (in 1992, down from a high of 3% in 1985), many educated Egyptians leave to find work in wealthy, neighboring oil states (there may be as many as 3 million expatriated workers). Illiteracy remains high (over 50% of the population over 10 years old), poverty is widespread, and the typical diet is inadequate.
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Government and Politics

According to its 1971 constitution, Egypt is a “democratic, socialist state,” but in effect it’s neither democratic nor overly socialist. It is more of an election-legitimated authoritarian regime. The president serves a six-year term and can be reelected for additional terms. He appoints the vice president and ministers. Since the 1952 revolution, successions to the presidency have happened only when Gamal Abd an-Nasser died in 1970, and then when his successor Anwar as-Sadat was assassinated in 1981. The legislative branch consists of the 444-member People’s Assembly, half of whom must be workers or peasants (in theory, anyway), and 30 of whom must be women. This assembly ratifies all laws and the national budget. All males over 18 and those women on the register of voters may participate in the election. Despite the regime’s ultimate authority (the assembly is very much a rubber-stamp body), Egypt is among the most liberal Arab countries.

Like that of his predecessor, President Hosni Mubarak’s government has been challenged repeatedly by Islamists. Mubarak’s inauguration followed the assassination of Sadat by militants whose aim was to overthrow the Egyptian government and establish an Islamic republic in its place.

Life And Times

The burgeoning population of Egypt, 58 million strong, is composed of a broad swath of cultures and classes, including descendants of the Pharaohs, Coptic Christians, and Bedouin, all of whom consider themselves wholly Egyptian. The majority of the population, however, is of Arab ancestry. The great majority of the lower class lives in appalling poverty, some relying on family and relatives abroad (usually in the Gulf) for support. The cheapest commodity in resource-poor Egypt is labor. Along the banks of the Nile fellaheen farm the rich land as their ancestors did 5000 years ago, but Egypt must supplement that with imported food.

In Egypt, the greater honor lies with the host; you won’t be there long before you are invited to tea, a meal, or an all-night wedding. Directions and advice are freely offered, but remember that some Egyptians are 50 eager to help and practice their English they will give incorrect directions rather than fail to offer assistance. Violent crime is not common in Egypt, and it is usually safe to wander in large cities.
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Women Travelers

Foreign women, especially those traveling alone, should expect to be harassed by Egyptian men. Harassment can take many forms, from a mildly sinister “hello,” to the more annoying and frequent pssst, to frightening and potentially harmful physical contact. Your stay in Egypt might be a bit more enjoyable if you make it a point to visit crowded areas in lengthier clothing and less crowded sites (tombs, desert areas) with at least one other person.

Via Western music, movies, television, and hearsay, some Egyptians have developed the idea that Americans and Europeans are excessively “free” in their dealings and in their behavior. Women are advised to avoid the crowded public buses and most nightclubs ("nightclubs” in the West are equivalent to “discos” in the Middle East; Middle Eastern nightclubs are something completely different, so don’t get confused). The best way to deal with harassment is probably to ignore it: repeated advances and extensive verbal harassment, however, are best quelled with a loud, indignant response in front of many people. For more information, see Safety and Women and Travel in Essentials. If you feel intimidated or harassed in any way, do not hesitate to alert the police.

Telegraph The larger phone offices and hotels usually provide telex and cable services. In Cairo, go to the Ataba Sq. telegraph office, opposite the main post office. It is not always possible to send an international telegram from offices outside of Cairo, but usually at least one major hotel in a town will provide this service. Dial 124 to send a telegram by phone. Allow at least two days for the message to reach its destination. Only private companies (like AmEx) offer fax facilities to their clients.

Telephone The Egyptian telephone system promises to be time-consuming and infuriating. Long-distance and international calls can be made from most government telephone offices (known as centrale), but in small towns you may experience long waits for limited success. In Cairo, Alexandria, and other large cities, you can buy a phonecard (I-E16.55 or LE33) for the orange pay phones in telephone offices, which allows you to dial yourself and speak for three to six minutes to Europe or beyond. Prices stay the same all day, but the card is cheaper than having .

put the call through, and the connection is generally good. In smaller an emp number of minutes, and will be cut off as up, so err on the generous side. Refuse to pay for incorrect con-SOOf1′ ns You can also call from major hotels, but they often hit you with a substan Collect calls to and from Egypt are impossible, despite what you may be told. The American companies AT&T and MCI offer direct-dial to operators within the U.S.: call (02) 356 0200 (AT&T) or (02) 335 5770 (MCI) from anywhere in the country. You will have to pay the price of the call to these Cairo numbers QOpt for 3min. in Cairo LE2 for 3min. elsewhere); the operator can then connect you to any number in the U.S. (if you have their company’s credit card) or place a collect call for you. Some international hotels have MCI and AT&T phones in their lobbies (known as USADirect); some also have UK, Canada, and JapanDirect phones which offer the same services to members. The international phone code for calling to Egypt is 20.

Local calls can be dialed direct to most of Egypt’s larger cities and towns. Public payphones are available in all centrales, and local calls can be made from many hotels, restaurants, and cigarette kiosks. Be wary of using a phone in a private hotel room; proprietors sometimes levy exorbitant fees.

Keeping in Touch

Mail An airmail letter from Egypt to any destination outside the Middle East costs 80pt, as do postcards. The most reliable place to mail letters is, according to local legend, the mailbox near the reception desk at the Nile Hilton. Postcards will more likely reach their destinations if sent from a major hotel rather than a post office. Most hotels sell stamps, although a 5pt surcharge may be added. The most dependable place to receive mail is the main American Express office in Cairo, although Poste Restante is available in most major cities. Confusion over first and last names can be avoided by using an initial and your last name or printing the last name in capitals. As a general rule, mail to Egypt is faster than mail from Egypt. In either case, don’t hold your breath-two or three weeks’ delivery time is normal.

The process for sending a package is Byzantine. First you must obtain an export license from Cairo International Airport (also available at major hotels and tourist shops) for any valuables purchased in Egypt. Most souvenir shops will do the dirty work necessary to mail your pyramid paperweights back home, for a fee. To mail a package in Cairo, you must go to the parcel post office, on the second floor of the Post Office HQ, next to the railway station at Ramses Sq. There you will be sent from pillar to post after various obscure forms and arcane seals. In theory, all mail leaving Egypt is opened and inspected. In other cities, packages can be mailed like letters, although you may have to go to a special package-only post office.
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Hotels

Egypt’s hotels run the gamut from glistening new resort complexes to spartan, dusty dives in dingy alleys; somewhere in between, clean, comfortable, inexpensive hotels do exist. Most towns and cities have lower-range hotels with rooms for LE10-18, as well as a number of middle-range hotels where you’ll pay I-E22-28. More comfortable hotels run into the LE3O-45 range. Always ask to see the room before you pay. Beware of scams. It is common for someone to claim to be affiliated with a popular hotel (like the one you asterisked in the pages of your Let’s Go). Upon your pointing out that the sign in front says Cockroach Inn and not Happy Golden Village, you will be fed stories about name changes and the violent deaths of the managers of all the other hotels in town. Don’t believe them.

Prices vary considerably between high and low season. The high season in Alexandria is June-August, in the Nile Valley October-April. In the high season, hotel rates for the Nile Valley (particularly Luxor and Aswan) are anywhere from 10 to 50% higher than listed here. In Cairo the high season is also in winter, but the differential between seasonal prices tends to be less. There is a hotel tax which varies by location, from 19% in Cairo to 10-12% in most other places. Unless otherwise noted, the tax should be included. Breakfast is included at nearly every hotel listed, with exceptions noted. As with hostels, cash is the way to go; outside the big cities, credit and traveler’s checks will take you exactly nowhere.
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Accommodations

Hostels Egypt has 15 HI youth hostels that vary in quality. Most are bearable, though grungy and crowded, and the unbeatable price (LE3-10 per night) will probably compensate for the less-than-luxurious atmosphere. Keep a careful eye on your valuables and take your passport, visa, and money to bed with you. Advance reservations are usually unnecessary, but arrive early just to be safe. A valid HI card may not be required, but at most hostels it will save you a pound or two. If you decide to purchase a card in Egypt you can get an International Guest Card from all hostels for LE24. For hostel expenses, don’t count on being able to use your credit card or traveler’s checks; in most places, budget accommodations are cash-only.

The larger hostels are in Alexandria, Cairo, Luxor, Port Sa’id, and Sharm ash-Sheikh; smaller hostels are in Assyut, Aswan, Damanhur, Fayyum, Hurghada, Ismail-iya, Marsa Matrouh, Sohag, Suez, and Tanta. Most hostels have kitchen facilities. For more information write to the Egyptian Youth Hostel Association, 1 Al-Ibrahimy St., Garden City, Cairo (td. 354 0529, fax 355 0329). The Youth Travel Department can also answer questions, help plan tours, and often provide maps. Write for information on their 15 hostels. Here too, an International Guest Card will cost I-E24,

Business Hours On Friday, the Muslim day of communal prayer, most government offices, banks, and post offices are closed (banks are closed on Sat. as well). Other establishments, such as restaurants, remain open seven days a week. Store hours are ordinarily Saturday-Thursday 9am-2pm and 5pm-9pm (9pm in the winter), with many stores also open Friday. Government office hours are usually 9am-2pm. Do your government business in the morning, as workers often leave before official closing times. Bank hours are ordinarily Sunday-Thursday 8:30am-noon, with money exchange available daily 8:30am-noon and 4-8pm. Foreign banks keep longer business hours, usually Sunday-Thursday 8an>3pm. Archeological sites and other points of interest arc typically open 8am-6pms though in summer the most important ones in the Nile Valley open at 6am and close in the early afternoon.

During the month-long holiday of Ramadan (approx. Feb. 11-March 13 in 1994), some restaurants close entirely, while some others open only after sundown when the fast is broken. The streets empty at dusk as everyone sits down to “breakfast,” after which business resumes. Shops close at 3:30pm during Ramadan and reopen from 8-1 Ipm. In the middle of the night, about 2-3am, Egyptians sit down for the second daily meal of Ramadan (called sahur) before going to sleep. Although traveling during Ramadan can be inconvenient, the excitement of nighttime celebrations offsets daytime hassles.

Tipping and Baksheesh Another crucial Arabic word for khoagas to know is baksheesh, the art of tipping. It is an ancient tradition in Islamic societies and was going on long before khoagas trampled onto the scene. Although baksheesh is different from straightforward charity, it stems from the belief” that those who have should give to those who have not, particularly in return for a favor or service-There are three kinds of baksheesh. The most common is similar to tipping-a small reward for a small service.

Tipping waiters and cab drivers is routine, as well as maids and cooks after long stays in hotels. Don’t feel obligated to give anything if a “service charge” is added to your bill, as is becoming increasingly common. Do not let yourself be railroaded into forking over huge sums-if a smiling worker demands LE5, say anna mish kboaga ("I’m not a dumb tourist") and give 25-50pt. Baksheesh becomes most useful when used to procure special favors; almost any minor rule can be broken for baksheesh.
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Prices A brief lesson in Arabic: After minfadlak (please) and sbukran (thank you), the most important word to know is kboaga (kho-AH-ga), because you are one. Kboaga means “tourist,” but is understood locally as “clueless and rich.” No matter how destitute you consider yourself, you are probably wealthy by Egyptian standards. Other than those in hotels and restaurants, most prices are not posted, which means khoagas are charged more than Egyptians. Avoid salesfolk and shops near tourist hubs, and look upon any unsolicited offer of goods or services with grave suspicioneven if told there is no charge.

Agree on a price before you accept anything, and do not pay until you receive the goods. Try to ascertain beforehand how much something is really worth, and pay in exact change. Most importantly, always insist on getting full value, no matter what excuses are offered. Never feel you owe more than the agreed amount no matter how much anyone squawks, and never be afraid to walk away at any time, or to firmly refuse an imitation, however seemingly kind, if you feel you’ll have to pay later.

At official sites, student get discounts on admission of up to 50%, with proper student ID. Shutterbugs are slapped with a photography/videotape fee, usually LE10.

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Money Matters

Currency and Exchange Egypt’s array of coins and banknotes is gradually becoming simplified as the old bills and coins pass out of circulation and into the hands of numismatists. The guinea (GEE-nay), or Egyptian pound (LE), is divided into 100 airsh, or piasters (pt). Technically, piasters are divided into 10 millims (mil-LEEMS), but the only vestige of this minuscule denomination is an extra zero to the right of the decimal point on some posted prices. Banknotes are color coded, printed with Arabic on one side and English on the other; the notes come in the following denominations: LE20 (green).

LE10 (red), LE5 (blue), LEI (brown), 50pt (red and brown), and 25pt (blue). All bills are roughly the same size. LE50 and LE100 notes are also issued in the new system, but they’re rare. In fact, it’s best to break your large bills into denominations of LEI and below because most taxi and bus drivers as well as street vendors cannot or will not make change. Coins come in denominations of lOpt and 20pt (both silver-colored-check the Arabic numbering) and 5pt (copper-colored). Hoard them, as they are useful for bus fares and other piddling expenses. Shopkeepers will often not bother with change below 25pt; fight for your right.

Medical Emergencies

The major hotels have resident doctors who can prescribe medicine or, in serious cases, arrange for specialists and hospitals, while even the cheapest hotels can get someone in an emergency. Telephone directories list doctors according to specialization. Ask your embassy for a list of physicians and pharmacists best able to assist foreigners. Several major hospitals provide 24-hr, service, including the Coptic Hospital (175 Ramses St., Dokki; tel. 90 42 13), the Anglo-American Hospital (3 Zohria Garden St., Zamalek; tel. 340 6162/3/4/5), and the As-Salam International Hospital (Comiche an-Nil, Maadi; tel. 363 8050, fax 362 3500).

Pharmacies (identifiable by the standard snake-on-a-staff symbol for medicine) in the big cities carry most U.S. and European drugs; Egypt is more relaxed about prescriptions than the U.S. Condoms are also available over the counter at these institutions (except in the most conservative areas like Qena and Sohag)-ask for kabout or ‘azil. Pharmacists are considered doctors in Egypt, and are therefore authorized to give injections. Pharmacies are generally open 9am-lpm and 4-8pm (often 10pm in summer), though some are open 24 hrs. Dial 123 for emergencies. (See Health in Essentials and Practical Information in city sections for more information.)

Tourist Services

The Egyptian General Authority for the Promotion of Tourism (EGAPT) has offices everywhere. The Egyptian tourist authorities also run a program called the Tourist Friends Association from 33 Kasr an-Nil St., 9th fir., Cairo (tel. 74 20 36), whereby Egyptian youth wait to meet, talk with, and assist foreign tourists daily from 6pm to 9pm, free of charge. The Tourist Police, despite the quasi-fascist name are actually meant to assist visitors with any problems.

Go to them in case of theft, or loss of life or limb; most speak some English. The officers are recognizable by their uniforms (black in winter, white in summer) with the words “Tourist Police” on arm bands. Another source of titillating information is the Egyptian Ministry of Tourism, Misr Travel Tower, Abbassiya, Cairo (tel. 82 35 10 or 82 48 58).

Embassies and Consulates : Useful Addresses

U.S.: Embassy, 5 latin America St., Garden City, Cairo (tel. 355 7371). Consulate, in Cairo (tel. 357 2200). Use the embassy for urgent matters. Consulate open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-lpm, closed on Islamic holidays.

canada Embassy: , 6 Muhammad Fahmi as-Sayyid St., Garden City, Cairo (tel. 354 2110) Open Sat.-Thurs. 7:3Oam-3pm. 7 Ahmed Ragheb St 2110) Open Sat.-Thurs. 7:3Oam-3pm. UK - Embassy 7 Ahmed Ragheb St., south of the

U.K. Embassy, Cairo (tel. 354 0850) In Suez contact the HS Supply Co., 9 Al-Galaa St. (tel. 22 01 45 or 22 53 82) or the Hilton Compound Complex, #623, Port Said (tel. 23 11 55). Handles affairs for New Zealand as well.

Australia Embassy, World Trade Center, 11-12 fir., 1191 Comiche an-Nil, Bulaq.Consular services open Sun.-Thurs. 9am-12:30pm; call after hours.

ZAS Air, a recent arrival in the Egyptian air-travel market, has office in all major cities and offers similar domestic flights for slightly cheaper prices.

Air Sinai, in the courtyard of the Nile Hilton, is a subsidiary of EgyptAir created to serve the Sinai and Israel so that the Arab states wouldn’t blacklist EgyptAir. Foreigners may have to pay in U.S. dollars. Below are one-way fares; the round-trip is probably non-discounted. Air Sinai flies two or three times per week from Cairo to St. Catherine’s (US$75) and Stiarm ash-Sheikh (US$95). Convenient flights also travel from Hurghada to Sharm ash-Sheikh (US$65) and St. Catherine’s (US$89). Air Sinai’s most popular flight connects Cairo and Tel Aviv. For more information, contact the main office at 12 Kasr an-Nil St., Cairo (tel. 75 06 00 or 75 07 29, fax 574 4711) or any branch office.

Plane Egypt Air, the official airline for all domestic flights, serves all major cities out of Cairo International Airport. All prices listed are one-way, economy class. The airline has frequent flights from Cairo to Luxor (lhr., US$84); Aswan (2hr., US$116); Alexandria (Whr., US$49 with discounts on round-trip fares); Abu Simbel (US$165); and Hurghada (US$91).

EgyptAir’s main office in the U.S. is at 720 Fifth Ave., New York, NY 10019 (tel. (212) 581-5600). EgyptAir has several offices in Cairo, some more crowded than others. The following have staff members who speak English: 6 Adly St., across from the tourist office (tel. 390 0999, fax 390 6078), and Nile Hilton, by Tahrir Sq. (tel. 76 39 99). You can reach their central reservations and information service at 75 06 00 (offices open daily 8am-8pm). There are no student discounts or youth fares on domestic flights.

Car Rental Renting a car may be economic^ if several people travel in a single vehicle. A car will enable you to visit remote regions such as the Oases or the Red Sea coast. Remember to obtain the necessary permits before cruising on back roads along the Suez Canal, in the Western Desert outside the Oases, on The Red Sea Coast, and in Sinai. Bear in mind that there are few places where you can drop off rental cars. An International Driver’s License (see Essentials) is required to drive in Egypt.

Any insurance you have will not cover you here, so plan to invest in proper coverage. Age requirements are not always strictly enforced by rental agencies. The cheapest rentals run about US$70 per day with unlimited mileage, (See rental company listings in Essentials or in Practical Information sections of individual cities.) It is often cheaper and easier to make reservations before you leave. Your biggest headache on the road will be the traffic; driving in Egypt demands nerves of steel.

Hitchhiking

Hitchhiking is not common in Egypt, but even within cities Egyptians are usually friendly about picking up foreign hitchers. Rides are reportedly easy to obtain in isolated areas, such as along the Great Desert Road or in remote parts of the Nile Valley, where public transportation is difficult to find. Often, however, drivers who pick up hitchhikers will expect a fare comparable to taxi or bus fare, regardless of whether their passenger is Egyptian or foreign. Women, whether in a group or alone, should not hitchhike. Nobody should travel alone in a private car. Egypt is mostly sparsely traveled desert; factor that into any hitching plans you may be making. Never count on getting a ride before you die of dehydration.Let’s Go does not recommend hitchhiking. The routes listed elsewhere in this book are not intended to recommend hitchhiking as a means of transport.

Taxi

Taxis are a cheap, convenient option for traveling around Cairo (where they are black and white) and Alexandria (black and orange). Using them, however, requires some practice. (For tips on how best to flag them down and determine correct payment, see Cairo Transportation.)

Private taxis (called taxi special) are much more expensive than the collective service; use them only for late-night or out-of-the-way travel. The drivers are notorious for exacting inflated fares from naive tourists. To decrease your chances of being ripped off, try to hail a private taxi on the street instead of finding one that is parked, particularly one parked near a popular tourist sight or large hotel. If a cabbie approaches you first, refuse. In any case, don’t talk about the price before you get in; when you get out, pay what is appropriate (city and sight listings give estimates).
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Bus

Intercity buses are an inexpensive but usually uncomfortable way to travel in Egypt. But. despite overcrowding, buses are valuable for short trips, when trains are a hassle. Buses also provide transportation to areas without rail service, such as Hurghada, the Oases, the Sinai, and Abu Simbel. Most routes also offer a slightly more expensive air-conditioned bus, usually early in the morning.

Private companies serve routes frequented by wealthier Egyptians (such as Cairo to Alexandria) with special air-conditioned, comfortable, no-standing buses. Bus service in the Sinai, though irregular, is generally comfortable and air-conditioned. Note that when you book a ticket for an Egyptian bus you are often assigned a particular seat. Buses traveling between major cities leave frequently throughout the day, although buses to and from the Sinai and the oases often depart only early in the morning. Try to go to the station the day before to confirm departure times.

Numbers and destinations on Egyptian buses are ordinarily written only in Arabic; familiarize yourself with the number chart in the language glossary at the end of this book. The conductors who sit at the small kiosks at main terminals are usually quite helpful with directions.

Train

The Egyptian railway system serves almost all major towns and points of interest in the country. First- and second-class trains are relatively comfortable and surprisingly inexpensive. They are also one of the most popular means of transport, hence the long lines and crowded cars. Trains are probably the best option for longdistance travel. For shorter distances, other forms of transportation-particularly service taxis-are much faster and more reliable.

The government has hesitated to advertise its train system to tourists because there’s barely enough room for Egyptians. Schedules and signs in the anarchic train stations are never in English. The Roman numerals on the trains indicate their class, and fellow passengers are generally helpful in directing you to the correct ticket windows and platforms. Ask at any major station for the invaluable 40-page English version of the Egyptian Railways Timetable (LEI). Of course, it is not at all unusual for a train to come an hour and a half late, while times and prices change constantly.

Getting Around

When tourism is slow, as in the summer of 1993, it is dangerous to travel to an isolated site (particularly via bus, taxi, or hitcher’s thumb), and expect to find return transportation. Check alt schedules very carefully before embarking, anci if you are taking private transportation arrange for your driver to wait wliile you look around.

Travel Restrictions Although the Ministry of Tourism insists that no permits are required to travel anywhere in Egypt except for specifically designated military zones, the soldiers and police on the ground may not have such an open-minded view. Thankfully, those areas which may be subject to restrictions coincide with zones of no tourist interest whatsoever. None of the oases requires a permit; indeed, the only significant tourist sight that does is the Pyramids at Dahshur.
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Getting Around

When tourism is slow, as in the summer of 1993, it is dangerous to travel to an isolated site (particularly via bus, taxi, or hitcher’s thumb), and expect to find return transportation. Check alt schedules very carefully before embarking, anci if you are taking private transportation arrange for your driver to wait wliile you look around.

Once There – Entry

A visa is required to enter Egypt (see Visas in Essentials). Generally, all personal items brought into the country to be taken out upon departure are exempt from taxes. Unless you are bringing at least US$5000 into the country, there is no formal declaration for personal items.

For important additional information on all aspects of travel in general and some specifics on Egypt, see Essentials. Most travelers to Egypt arrive via chaotic Cairo. Try to pre-plan your escape route from the airport, train, or bus terminal before you actually arrive. Upon arrival at Cairo International Airport, purchase a visa stamp if you have not done so already. Visas cost US$ 15 or the equivalent in hard currency for all nationalities. These rates may rise unexpectedly. Don’t panic if an official disappears with your passport; it will be returned, stamped and unharmed.

Yon must register your passport with the police within seven days of your arrival or risk a heavy fine (LE26.30). It’s one form. Ask the tourist office or your hotel manager where to register-frequently the manager will handle the paperwork for you. You may register at a passport office in any regional center (Cairo, Alexandria, Aswan, Luxor, Sharm ash-Sheikh, or Marsa Matrouh), or with the less reliable local police in smaller areas. If you are unabie to register, don’t panic. The U.S. embassy issues a free letter of apology for U.S. citizens, with which you ma;’ register late at the Mugama Building at Tahrir Square in Cairo.

Egypt

The Arab Republic of Egypt (Goumhouriyat Misr al-Arabiya, or simply Misr) is the child of the Nile Valley, a freak product of northeastern African geography and climate that created the most fertile strip in the world smack in the middle of a desert. The Pharaoh’s control of the annual floodwaters was the basis of his power and claim to divinity; modern technology claims that role now. The Aswan High Dam, near the southern border, remains the most profound demarcation of ancient and modem Egypt. Completed in 1970. the dam put an end to the annual flooding of the Nile; Egypt now relies upon irrigation pumps and hydroelectric power.

Egypt is a budget traveler’s paradise. The sights are stunning, the people and culture fascinating, and you’ll almost never get caught in the rain. And it’s dirt cheap. On the downside, independent travel in Egypt can be difficult; it requires plenty of time, stamina, and an attitude that mixes a dollop of patience with a dash of humor.