Sorek Cave in the Avshalom Reserve

The stalagmite and stalactite cave of Avshalom contains amazing speleological splendors. Even the ridiculously large numbers of tour groups that converge on this place won’t overshadow the majesty of the caverns. Obey the rule about not taking pictures; repeated exposure to flashes damages the mineral formations. Admission (NIS9, children NIS4.50) includes a slide show and guided tour (tel. 91 11 17). The cave lies 19km southwest of Jerusalem next to the village of Nes Harim. Due to the lack of direct public transportation and the 7-km distance between Nes Harim and the cave, Sorek is best reached by joining an organized tour (try Egged Tours). Stalwart hikers can take bus #184 or 413 (NIS5) to Nes Harim and walk to the cave, or get a group together and take a taxi from Nes Harim. (Open Sat.-Thurs. 8:30am-3:30pm, Fri. 8:30am-12:30pm.)

Abu Ghosh

Thirteen kilometers west of Jerusalem lies the Arab village of Abu Ghosh. In the 18th century Sheikh Abu Ghosh required pilgrims to pay a toll here as they traveled to Jerusalem; the town was the last of a series of caravan stops en route to the Holy City. The Arabs of the village have always maintained good relations with neighboring Jewish settlements, even during the 1948 War of Independence.

Christians and Jews alike revere Abu Ghosh as the original site of the Ark of the Covenant, which was moved by King David to Jerusalem. Notre Dame de PArche d’Alliance (Our Lady of the Ark of the Covenant), on top of the hill, was built on the site of the ark. The current church was built in the 1920s on the footprint of a demolished Byzantine church; fragments of the old mosaic floors can still be seen. (Open daily 8:30-11:30am and 2:306pm.) The Caravan Inn on the road down to town offers great views (hummus NIS5).

Near Jerusalem

Ein Kerem

Formerly an Arab village, tiny Ein Kerem (fountain of vines) is the traditionally pro fessed birthplace of John the Baptist. His mother certainly chose the spot well; rivals to the beauty of this village are scarce. Come here for an afternoon, bring a picnic lunch, and wander through the village’s charming alleys and tranquil streets.

The Church of St. John (tel. 41 36 39), with its soaring clock tower, marks the exact spot where John was born. Inside are several noteworthy paintings, including the Decapitation of Saint John. (Open Mon.-Sat. 8am-noon and 2:30-6pm, Sun. 9am-noon and 2:3O-5pm; Oct.-Feb. Mon.-Sat. 8am-noon and 2:3O-5pm, Sun. 9am-noon and 2:3O-5pm. Mass celebrated at 7:15am, Sun. 8:15am. Dress modestly. Free.) In the Grotto of the Nativity below the church there is a lovely Byzantine mosaic of pheasants-the symbol of the Eucharist. Ask the guardian for a key.

East Jerusalem

The Palestinian National Theater (Al-Hakawati), on Nuzah St. (tel. 28 09 57) near the American Colony Hotel, stages plays that are unabashedly political and quite interesting; English synopses are provided. Walk up Nablus Rd. and take the first right after the intersection with Salah ad-Din St. Walk 100m and the theater will be on your right, at the end of a short driveway. Locals greet visitors cordially, making this an excellent opportunity to experience Palestinian hospitality. The IDF occasionally shuts down the theater, but otherwise, the show goes on. (Admission NIS10. Call to inquire about performances.)

Cultural Activities

The Jerusalem Symphony performs frequently at the Jerusalem Theater on David Marcus and Chopin St. (tel. 61 14 98 after 4pm); the Israel Philharmonic Orchestra plays Binyanei haUmma. The Jerusalem Theater also hosts numerous plays, dances, lectures, and concerts. Similar events are held at the Israel Museum (tel. 63 62 31), at Binyanei haUmma (tel. 25 24 81) across from the central bus station, and occasionally at both Hebrew University campuses. The Gerard Bakhar Center at 11 Beza-lel St. (tel. 24 21 57) hosts a variety of concerts, including occasional Israeli folk music and jazz. Asaf s Cave, in the Mount Zion Cultural Center (tel. 71 68 41), near David’s Tomb, stars the Diaspora Yeshiva Band; wish Shabbat good-bye each week at 9pm (in winter 8:30pm) with Hasidic dancing and English, Hebrew, and Yiddish music-a unique Jerusalem experience (cover NIS20, students NIS10; call to make sure there is a performance).

Built by Ottoman Turks in the 1880s as a caravan stop, the Khan (tel. 71 82 83 or 72 17 82), across from the railway station in Remez Sq., contains an intimate theater, cafe, art gallery, and Jerusalem’s first nightclub (open until 2am). It’s rarely frequented by tourists, but its concerts and plays, most only in Hebrew, are critically acclaimed. Israeli folklore show every night at 9:30pm (NIS31 includes wine). (Egged buses #6, 7, 8, and 30 or Arab buses #21 and 22 pass by the railway station.) Seize any opportunity to attend a rock, jazz, or classical performance at Sultan’s Pool (Brekhat haSultan), a grassy outdoor amphitheater named for Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent, the Ottoman ruler who repaired the ancient aqueduct in 1536. The theater is open in the summer only. Tickets for American or British rock stars cost about NIS50 and up.

Dancing

The city center’s dancing scene has been whittled down to only two clubs. The Underground, 8 Yoel Salomon St. (tel. 25 19 18), is the more popular, featuring a bar and a Batcave-like disco area downstairs. The disco is musty with funky fluorescent graffiti on the walls, but you won’t notice because of the wall-to-wall sweaty, semi-trashed dancers crammed in. The Arizona, 37 Jaffa Rd., is a drop smaller but features a cute Western-theme bar, with a buy-one-get-one-free happy hour (7:30-9pm). The Arizona’s disco is a twin of the Underground’s; in fact, they are only separated by one (all too thin) wall. Neither club has a cover charge, but both require purchase of one drink to get into the disco area. Both open 7:30pm4am (depending on crowds).

The largest dance clubs are still in Jerusalem’s southern industrial neighborhood, Talpiot, down Hebron Rd. There you’ll find Pythagoras, Depardieu, and some other establishments. Cover charges range from NIS15-25 for Friday and Saturday nights; open from about 9pm-5am. Taxi fare from the center should be about NISI 5. A hot spot in the summer of 1993 was Incognito, one building up the street from the Jerusalem Cinematheque.
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Cafes

Cafe Atara, 7 Ben-Yehuda St. (tel. 25 01 41). The original meeting place of the Hagana and Jewish writers for the Jerusalem Post when it was still the Palestine Post. Today, vintage Jerusalem intelligentsia and politicians as well as young journalists linger over coffee here during the day. Disappointing at night: just another face in the crowd of midrafiov cafes. Sandwiches NIS7.50-12.50. Open daily 6:3Oam-midnight. Kosher.

Cafe Ta’amon, 27 King George St. (tel. 25 49 77), corner of Hillei St. Another legendary hole in the wali; older Israeli writers and intellectuals also frequent this establishment. Owner Mordekhai Kop’s book of lengthy IOUs is a veritable list of who’s who is Israel. Coffee, tea, “choco,” cookies, and sandwiches NIS3-3-5O. Beer NIS5, brandy NIS4.5O, and pastries NIS3-4. Open Sun.-Thurs. 6:30am-llpm, Fri. 6:30am-4pm.

Bars

In the areas Hanking Jaffa Rd. east of Kikkar Tzion, and mostly on and off Heleni haMalka St. by the Russian Compound (Migrash haRussim), neon beer signs give a new glow to the crisp Jerusalem night air. After midnight, stylish bars in old stone buildings fill to capacity (and overflow into the street) with a young, trendy crowd-just when you thought Jerusalem wasn’t about fun. A Goldstar draught is NIS8-9 for a half-liter.

Glasnost, 15 Heleni haMalka St. (tel. 25 69 54), off Kikkar Tzion, toward the Russian Compound. Plays jazz and funk, with occasional live bands. Sit inside large interior or outside on patio under swooping palm trees. Beer NIS6-8, hard liquor NIS10-20. Also serves food; spaghetti, grilled cheese concoctions, burgers, cakes NISI2-22. Open 7pm-whenever.

Entertainment : West Jerusalem

Tel-Avivians hate to admit it, but Jerusalem nightlife is no longer an inspiration for jokes. After years when fun-seeking Jerusalemites had to descend to Tel Aviv for some Friday night action, the early 90s have witnessed a dramatic boom in Jerusalem’s nocturnal activity. Once the city’s conservative majority is safely tucked under the blankets, a surprisingly vibrant scene comes into life, with bustling bars and some of the best dance clubs in the country. Add to that die large selection of highbrow cultural events which Jerusalem always prided itself on, from lunchtime chamber music to tlie eariy summer Israel Festival extravaganza, and you get a city where you’ll have a hard time getting bored.

The best listings of concerts, exhibits, nightlife, and cultural activities are in Kol hair, a local Hebrew weekly. You might also read the entertainment supplement to Friday’ ^Jerusalem Post, the various booklets supplied by the GTIO, and the posters lining the city streets.
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Around Mt. Herzl

Yad vaShem, meaning “a memorial and a name” (tel. 75 16 11), is the most moving of Israel’s Holocaust museums. It’s actually a complex of buildings. Start at the historical museum, which uses photographs, documents, and relics to paint a frightening and tragic picture of the events leading up to the Holocaust and of the Holocaust itself. The exhibit ends with a simple, powerful memorial: symbolic tombs upon which are written the number of Jews who were killed in each country, and finally a tiny shoe that belonged to one of the Holocaust’s youngest victims. The Hall of Names (open Sun.-Thurs. 10am-2pm, Fri. 10am-12:30pm) contains an agonizingly long list of all known Holocaust victims. Visitors may fill out a Page of Testimony, recording the name and circumstances of death of family members killed by the Nazis.

Another building houses a ner tamid (eternal fire) to memorialize the Holocaust’s victims, with the name of each concentration camp engraved into the floor. The art museum nearby houses drawings and paintings made in the ghettos and in the concentration camps by Jewish prisoners; in the museum and on its grounds are a number of evocative works by sculptor Elsa Pollock. By far the most powerful part of Yad vaShem is the stirring Children’s Memorial, where mirrors are used to create a spark of light for every youth who perished; a recorded voice recites die name and age of each young victim.

Northern Sections

If you take bus #2 from the city center and get off at HaSanhedrin St. (off Yam Suf St.), you’ll find a park carpeted with pebbles and pine needles and the Tombs of the Sanhedrin. Composed of esteemed male sages and leaders, the Sanhedrin was the high court of ancient times; it ruled on grave legal matters and even reviewed the case of Jesus. Separate burial areas were designated for the corpses of the members. (Open Sun.-Fri. 9am-sunset. Free.)

The Tourjeman Post, 4 Heil haHandasa St. (tel. 28 12 78), recounts Jerusalem’s history from its division in 1948 to its reunification in 1967. The building withstood severe shelling during the War of Independence and became an Israeli command post when the Jordanian border was just across the street between 1948 and 1967. Take bus #1,11, or 27. To reach the building, walk northwest up the wide new road springing from HaZanhanim St. (which runs along the Old City wall) until it meets Shivtei Yisrael St. The museum will be on your left just before the junction. This new road runs along the pre-67 line between East and West Jerusalem. (Open Sun.-Thurs. 9am4pm, Fri. 9am-lpm. Admission NIS5, students N1S4.)

South of City Center

South of Independence Park are some of Israel’s most elegant and affluent residential areas. Rehavia, in the area trisected by A2za Rd. and Ramban St., was founded in the 1920s and became the refuge of many German Jews who fled Nazi prosecution in the 1930s. For years, it was famous as a Deutch high-culture enclave, with dark-wood libraries lined with Goethe and Schiller and Mozart playing on the gramophone. Little of the Central European flavor remains today, but the legacy lives on with the neighborhood’s many International Style houses, designed in the best tradition of German Modernism. The stone-clad buildings are remarkably well preserved (particularly compared to their contemporaries in Tel Aviv), making a walk around the lush streets of Rehavia highly rewarding for architecture enthusiasts.

In the middle of Rehavia, on Alfassi St., is Jason’s Tomb, built around 100 BC as the burial site of a wealthy Hasmonean-era Jewish family. Pottery excavated in the site indicate that three generations were buried there; charcoal drawings on the plastered porch wall depict ships, suggesting that one of the Jasons was involved in naval excursions. The pyramid on top of the tomb is reconstructed. More to the east past Azza Rd. is Israel’s Prime Minister’s official residence, in the guarded house at the corner of Balfour and Smolenskin St.-tell him what you think. Next door on Balfour St. is the Schocken Library, designed by the renowned architect Erich Mendelssohn, who spent a few years in Jerusalem in the late 1930s (his dwelling was in the windmill on Ramban St. near Kikkar Zarfat, now an upscale shopping arcade).

The Jerusalem Great Synagogue

The Jerusalem Great Synagogue on King George St. (tel 24 71 12), across from the Sheraton Plaza Hotel, is ornate, but it’s nothing more than a very big synagogue. Dress modestly to visit (open Sun.-Fri. 9am-lpm) and stop at the Wolfson Museum next door, on the fourth floor of the Hekhal Shlomo building. The museum contains a large exhibit of Jewish religious and ceremonial objects and a room with dioramas of various scenes from Jewish history. (Museum open Sun.-Thurs. 9am-lpm, Fri. 9am-noon. Admission NIS2.) Services on Shabbat (Fri. 20min. after candle-lighting, Sat. Sam) feature a cantor and a choir.

The Hall of Heroism inside the Russian Compound off Jaffa Rd. (tel. 23 31 66) commemorates the work of Israel’s underground movement in the pre-1948 struggle against British rule. Originally erected by Russian pilgrims, the hall was converted by the British into Jerusalem’s main prison. Enter through Heshin St., just off Jaffa Rd. where it splits with Shlomzion haMalka St. Follow the green signs tliat say “Museum.” (Open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-4pm. Admission N1S4, students NIS2.)

Mea She’arim

Mea She’arim ("Hundredfold,” an invocation of plenty), just north of Ethiopia St., is the world’s only remaining example of the Jewish shtell communities that flourished in Eastern Europe before the Holocaust. Several thousands of Ultra-Orthodox Jews live here as their ancestors did, preserving with painstaking diligence traditional habits, dress, customs, and beliefs. Although relatively few in number, Mea She’arim’s extremists are vocal and receive a good deal of publicity. The Neturei Kaita (City Keepers), the most extreme sect of the Satmar Hasidim, oppose the Israeli state, arguing that Jewish law prohibits the legitimate existence of a Jewish country until the coming of the Messiah. While most other Ultra-Orthodox Jews hold similar views, Neturei Karta went at one point as far as asking Yasir Arafat to accept them as a minority in the future Palestinian state. These views, however, do not prevent the believers from living in Israel and accepting money and protection from the state.

Signs throughout the neighborhood read, “Daughters of Israel! The Torah requires you to dress modestly,” and then proceed to explain exactly what this means. Whether or not you’re Jewish, take this warning seriously; otherwise, you’ll deeply offend those around. Women should be covered to the elbow and knee and men should wear long pants. Don’t fondle your loved one in this part of town, and always ask before you take photographs. Residents have been known to spit on people who don’t conform strictly to their ideas of modesty.
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Around City Center

Ticho House, 7 HaRav Kook St. (tel. 24 50 68), near Kikkar Tzion about two blocks up the hill, houses numerous scenes of Jerusalem, still life, landscapes, and portraits beautifully painted in watercolors or drawn in charcoal by Anna Ticho. The building that houses the late Mrs. Ticho’s paintings was once her private home, as well as the eye clinic of her husband Dr. Avraham Ticho. Dr. Ticho once said that he healed people’s eyes so that they could see die beauty of his wife’s paintings. The building also shows Dr. Ticho’s large collection of menorahs. A small library (open Sun.-Thurs. 10am-4pra, Fri. 10am-noon) has a large collection of art books. Affiliated with the Israel Museum, the building, restaurant (see Food), and gardens are well groomed and make a relaxing setting for a mid-city respite. (Open Sun.- Mon. and Wed.-Thurs. 10am-5pm, Tues. lOam-lOpm, Fri. 10am-2pm. Free.)

At the northern end of HaRav Kook St. begins Ethiopia St., a surprisingly lush, quiet street in the middle of the town center bustle. The houses are arranged in a checkerboard pattern, with alternating front and back walled-in gardens. At the end of the street on your right is the handsome Ethiopian Church, built around the turn of the century.

The Israel Museum & Giv’at Ram

One of the most attractive indoor sights in West Jerusalem is the Israel Museum (tel. 70 88 11/73). From the ticket building, walk along the shrub-lined walkway and up the steps to the main building. (A free shuttle bus makes the trip every ten minutes for disabled or elderly visitors and their escorts; the bus runs all day except 1-1:30pm.) Rock and rust enthusiasts should go straight to the archeology section- 30,000 years of human habitation in the Fertile Crescent are recorded with an extensive collection of tools and weapons. Guided tours of the archeological galleries are given in English every Monday and Thursday at 3pm and Wednesday at 1:30pm. Straight ahead from the bottom of the steps is the ethnography exhibit, which (races the Jewish Life Cycle. Guided tours of the Judaica and ethnography galleries are given Sunday and Wednesday at 3pm and Monday at 1:30pm.

The Israel Museum is also the place to be for art lovers. The museum features a section on Israeli art showing older paintings as well as contemporary works. Visitors may be surprised by a fairly large collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist paintings, and by a few period rooms, including a spectacular French Rococo salon donated by the French Rothschild family. The new Weisbord Pavilion directly across from the ticket building houses a small permanent collection of Rodin sculptures and eariy Modern paintings, and presents rotating exhibits of contemporary art. Outside, the Billy Rose Sculpture Garden contains the works of such masters as Henry Moore and Picasso. Pick up a schedule of evening outdoor concerts at the museum, and try to visit on a Tuesday night when the garden is illuminated.

West Jerusalem

Striking and varied in its own right, West Jerusalem is not just long lines in the central bus station, Ben-Yehuda rnidrahov eateries, and Russian Compound bars. It also boasts fine museums, shaded parks, and elegant, thickly gardened neighborhoods. Since the first Jewish pioneers dared to move outside the protective walls of the Old City in the 1860s, the communities they established in West Jerusalem have thrived. In all but its most run-down slums-and West Jerusalem has a few of those-the requisite Jerusalem stone facing strangely harmonizes the most uninspired housing developments with the ancient building traditions of the Old City.

Central East Jerusalem

Midway between Damascus and Herod’s Gates, Solomon’s Quarries plunge to the city’s bowels, providing a refuge from the midday heat. Many believe that it was in these cool caves, which extend about 250m beneath the Old City, that workers quarried limestone for the building of ancient Jerusalem during the First Temple period. To separate blocks of stone from the cave walls, wooden planks were set in crevices and soaked with water; as the planks expanded they wedged the stone apart. Tradition has it that Zedekiah, Judah’s last king, fled the city through a passage to Solomon’s quarries when King Nebuchadnezzar of Babylonia invaded in 587 BC. The sign for the quarries reads “Zedekiah’s Cave” (open Sun.-Sat. 9am-lpm).

Farther east on Suleiman St., opposite the northeastern corner of the city walls, a driveway leads to the Rockefeller Archeological Museum (tel. 28 22 51), one of the country’s best showcases. Its benefactor, John D. Rockefeller, once asked to be reminded “whether it was one or two million dollars I donated towards the museum.” Needless to say, budget travel was not a concern of his. The museum’s collection records the region’s history, beginning with the remains of 100,000-year-old Mt. Carmel Man, and illustrates the cultural impact of various conquering civilizations. Designed in the 1920s by British architect Austin S. B. Harrison in his unique Orientalist-Gothic-eclectic style, the layout of the museum can be confusing. (Open Sun.-Thurs. 10am-5pm, Fri.-Sat. 10am-2pm. Admission NIS10, students NIS7. Take Egged bus #27 or 23.)

The Mount of Olives

The bone-dry slopes of the Mount of Olives (Har haZeitim in Hebrew), to the east of the Old City, are dotted with churches marking the sites of Jesus’ triumphant entry into Jerusalem, his teaching, his agony and betrayal in Gethsemane, and his ascension to heaven. That the Mount of Olives has three gardens of Gethsemane and two points of Ascension may cast doubt on the accuracy of the locations, but nothing can detract from the splendor. In Jewish tradition, the Mount of Olives holds importance for the future as well: the thousands buried in the cemetery here will be the first to greet the Messiah on Judgment Day.

A walk down the hill, with pauses at the numerous churches, tombs, and gardens, is most enjoyable in the morning when the sun shines at your back, permitting clear views and photographs of the Old City. Since most churches are closed on Sundays and afternoons from about noon-3pm, mornings are also the most practical time to come. Arab bus #75 runs from the station across from Damascus Gate to At-Tur, the Arab village on top of the Mount of Olives.

The City of David & the Kidron Valley

If you have even a fleeting interest in the biblical history of Jerusalem, the City of David is a logical place to begin, since this is where the city did. The quest for the origins of biblical Jerusalem has been going on since 1850 and only recently have the pieces of the puzzle begun to fit together. Archeologists confirm that the ridge of Ophel-south of the Temple Mount and outside the city walls-is the site of the Canaanite city captured by King David.

Excavations of the earliest Canaanite walls indicate that the Jebusites were confined to an area of about eight acres. The size and location of the city above the Kidron Valley were precisely chosen so that the inhabitants would have access to the nearby water source (the Gihon Spring) and at the same time remain high enough on the Ophel’s ridge to ensure adequate defense. In times of peace, townspeople passed through a “water gate” to bring water into the city. To allow for continued supply during a siege, the Jebusites dug a shaft from which they could draw water without leaving the walls. David succeeded in capturing the city only after his soldier, Joab, corked the shaft one night. In 1867, Warren confirmed this biblical account when he discovered the long, sleek shaft that now bears his name. In the 1960s, Kathleen Kenyon located the Jebusite city walls dating from 1800 BC which lie just above the Gihon Spring.

Around the Old City Mount Zion

This hill stands outside the city walls opposite Zion Gate and the Armenian Quarter. At various times since the Second Temple era, however, Mt. Zion (Har Tzion) has been enclosed by the walls. The mount has long been considered the site of the Tomb of David (though recent archeological evidence suggests otherwise), the Last Supper, and the descent of the Holy Spirit at Pentecost. The name Zion, which is also applied to Israel as a whole, is thought to be derived from the Jebusite fortress called Zion, which was first seized by King David when he conquered the territory to the east.

During the siege of the Jewish Quarter in 1948, the area around Zion Gate was the scene of some of the fiercest fighting in Jerusalem, as the Hagana tried to break in and end the attack. Vestiges of fighting include the bombshell-pocked gate. Egged buses #1 and 38 run between Mt. Zion and Jaffa Gate (#1 goes through Mea She’arim to the central bus station; #38 goes to the center of town). To reach the sights on the Mount, leave the Old City through Zion Gate or approach Zion Gate from either Jaffa or Dung Gates. Turn left coming out of Zion Gate and follow the wall around, forking right at the convent. At the next fork, take a left.

Muslim Quarter

The Muslim Quarter is worth exploring mostly for its architecture, notably that from the Mamluk period (1250-1517). Do not wander through the Muslim Quarter during periods of unrest, however, and do not flaunt your Hebrew here. Several of the tour groups include the Muslim Quarter in their routes. Check at the GTIO for specifics.

The stretch of Bab as-Silsilah Street extending to the Temple Mount is partly founded on the ancient Mamluk causeway which crossed the Tyropoeon Valley, linking the upper city to the temple platform. At the beginning of the street stands the Khan as-Sultan (or Al-Wakala), a remarkably preserved Crusader-period caravansary which provided lodgings for merchants and their donkeys. Just past Misgav Ladakh St. (further down the street on the right) is the Tashtamuriya Building, housing the tomb of its namesake (d. 1384) and formerly an Islamic college.

Continuing down Bab as-Silsilah to its intersection with Western Wall St. (HaKo-tel), you’ll arrive at the Kilaniya Mausoleum, with its characteristic Mamluk stalactite half-dome; the Turba Turkan Khatun (Tomb of Lady Turkan) is at #149. At the end of Bab as-Silsilah, on your right and often surrounded by tour guides in training, is the Tankiziya Building, built by a Mamluk slave who worked his way up to governor of Damascus hi 1312, and then back down to imprisonment and execution in Alexandria 30 years later. This venerated structure, on the site of the original seat of the Sanhedrin, is currently occupied by Israelis due to its proximity to the Western Wall and Temple Mount.

Armenian Quarterr

The Armenian Quarter, in the southwestern pan of the Old City near Mt. Zion. maintains a strong cultural identity despite modernization. Aramaic, the ancient language of the Talmud, is spoken both during services and in casual conversation at the Syrian Orthodox Convent on Ararat St. The Syrian Church believes this spot is the site of St. Mark’s house and the Last Supper, while most other Christians recognize the Cenacle on Mt. Zion as the hallowed place. To reach the convent, enter Jaffa Gate and walk along the Citadel onto Armenian Patriarchate Rd. Take a left onto St. James Rd. and another onto Ararat St. A vivid mosaic marks the door to the convent. You can visit during the afternoon; if the door is closed, ring the bell. The Armenian Compound, down Armenian Patriarchate Rd. past St. James Rd., is a city within a city, home to about 1000 Armenians and a slew of buildings closed to tourists.

Farther down Armenian Patriarchate Rd. on the left is the entrance to the Mardi-gian Museum, which chronicles the history of Armenia from the beginnings of its Christianization in 46 AD to the Turkish genocide of one and a half million Armenians in 1915. Follow the signs for the Armenian Museum. (Open Mon.-Sat. 10am-4:30pm. Admission NIS3, students NIS2.)
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Christian Quarter & Via Dolorosa

In the northwest quadrant of the Old City, the Christian Quarter surrounds the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the site traditionally believed to be the place of Jesus’ crucifixion, burial, and resurrection. Many small chapels and churches of various Christian denominations lie near the Church of the Holy Sepulchre,The Via Dolorosa (Path of Sorrow) is the route Jesus followed from the site of his condemnation to his crucifixion site and grave-from the Praetorium to Calvary. Each stop along the route marks an event, one of the “Stations of the Cross” on Jesus’ final journey. The present route along Via Dolorosa was established during the Crusader period, but modern New Testament scholars have suggested alternate routes based on more recent archeological and historical reconstructions.

One spat involves establishing exactly where Jesus began his walk. Everyone agrees that Jesus was brought before Pontius Pilate, the Roman procurator, for judgment. A Roman governor ordinarily resided and fulfilled his duties in the palace of Herod the Great, south of Jaffa Gate and the Citadel area. This evidence places the starting point on the opposite end of the city from the traditional beginning on Via Dolorosa. On feast days when the temple area was hectic, however, the governor and his soldiers presumably based themselves temporarily at Antonia’s fortress (also built by Herod) to be closer to the Temple Mount. As Jesus was condemned on a feast day (Passover), the Tower of Antonia, near St. Stephen’s (Lion’s) Gate, remains the traditional First Station, although you may see small groups, notably the Catholic Dominican Order, setting out from Jaffa Gate.

Jewish Quarter

The Jewish Quarter is in the southeast quadrant of the Old City, the site of the posh Upper City during the Second Temple era. The quarter extends from HaShalshelet St. (Bab as-Silsilah) in the north to the city’s southern wall, and from Ararat St. in the west to the Western Wall in the east. You can reach the quarter either by climbing the stairs diagonally across from the Western Wall or by heading down David St. and turning right at the sign for the Cardo Maximus. Jews first settled in this area in the 15th century. The Jewish community grew from 2000 in 1800 to 11,000 in 1865, when Jews started to settle outside the walls. Today, about 650 families live in the Jewish Quarter.

Since the annexation of the Old City in 1967, the Jewish Quarter has been completely and impressively rebuilt, repairing the destruction from the house-to-house fighting in 1948 and deterioration during the Jordanian occupation. Archeological discoveries at every turn of the shovel slowed the rebuilding and remodeling, though city planners have managed to gracefully integrate the ancient remains into the stunning new neighborhood. Indeed, in striking contrast to other pans of the Old City, the gentrified Jewish Quarter is a desirable and expensive neighborhood, with an almost exclusively Orthodox Jewish (and largely American) population.

Temple Mount & Western Wall

In the southeastern corner of the Old City, the Temple Mount (Al-Haram ash-Sharif in Arabic, Har Bayit in Hebrew), about the size of the Muslim Quarter, is holy to Christians, Jews, and Muslims alike. The hill is traditionally identified with the biblical Mt. Moriah, on which God asked Abraham to sacrifice his son Isaac (Genesis 22:2). The First Temple was built here by King Solomon in the middle of the 10th century BC, and destroyed by Nebuchadnezzar in 587 BC when the Jews were led into captivity in Babylon (I Kings 5-8, II Chronicles 2-7, II Kings 24-25). The Second Temple was built in 516 BC, after the Jews’ return from exile (Ezra 3-7). In 20 BC, King Herod rebuilt the temple and enlarged the Mount, reinforcing it with four retaining walls. Parts of the southern, eastern, and western retaining walls still stand. Religious scholars believe that the Holy Ark was located closest to the Western Wall, making this wall the holiest site in Judaism.

The Second Temple is remembered by Christians as the backdrop to the Passion of Christ. like the First Temple, it lasted only a few hundred years. In the fourth year of the Jewish Revolt (70 AD) Roman legions sacked Jerusalem and razed the Temple. Attempts to rebuild it during the Bar Kokhba revolt and during the reign of Julian the Apostate failed. Justinian built a church here, but the Temple Mount was barren until the arrival of the Muslims in the 7th century. At that time, the Umayyad Caliphs built the two Arab shrines that still dominate the Temple Mount: the holy, silver-domed Al-Aqsa Mosque (built in 715 AD and rebuilt several times after earthquakes); and the magnificent Dome of the Rock (built in 691 AD). A feast for mind and eye, the complex is the third holiest Muslim site, after the Ka’ba in Mecca and the Mosque of the Prophet in Medina. According to Muslim tradition, the Dome of the Rock is the point from which God took Muhammad on his mystical Night Journey (miraf) into heaven (17:17). The Qur’an identifies this spot as Al-Aqsa (the Farthest); the nearby mosque commemorates Muhammad’s journey. The Dome of the Rock surrounds what Muslims believe was Abraham’s makeshift altar where he almost sacrificed Ishmael, his son by his concubine Hagar, and not Isaac as Christians and Jews believe.

Markets

From Jaffa Gate, the quickest way to enter the Old City’s markets is to descend David St. Shopkeepers peddling everything from bottled water to jewelry will badger you for a shekel. In the wake of the intifada, the souk is not the place to dazzle shopkeepers with your Hebrew; haggle a little in English if you wish to buy, or continue down the slippery stone steps. It’s impossible to determine whether the souk (shuk in Hebrew) smells of mint leaves, hashish, your breakfast, or the greasy cart in front of you. Nonetheless, it is unforgettable. (See Bargaining under Essentials
for some tips.)

Although all of the Old City is riddled with shops, there are several concentrated commercial thoroughfares. David Street (Souk al-Bazaar Rd.), and its continuation, HaShalshelet Street (Bab as-Silsilah St.), run from Jaffa Gate to the Temple Mount. Halfway down David St. on the left are two cavernous rooms that house a fruit and vegetable market called Souk Aftimos. Extending north from David St. to Damascus Gate is Khan az-Zeit and the three-laned Armenian market. Built atop the Roman Cardo Maximus, Khan az-Zeit also covers the Cardo’s Byzantine addition that today houses luxury shops in the Jewish Quarter.

The Walls the Citadel

The present walls of the Old City were built by Suleiman the Magnificent in 1542 AD. The city had been without walls since 1219, when Al-Muazzan tore them down to prevent the Crusaders from seizing a fortified city. There are eight gates. The Golden Gate has been sealed since 1530, blocked by Muslim graves. It is thought to lie over the Closed Gate of the First Temple, the entrance through which the Messiah will purportedly pass (Ezekiel 44:1-3). The seven other gates open onto different parts of the city. Jaffa Gate is the most convenient entrance from West Jerusalem and is the traditional entrance for pilgrims, as there has been a gate here since 135 AD. Damascus Gate serves East Jerusalem, and St. Stephen’s Gate, also called the lion’s Gate, is the beginning of the Via Dolorosa. The Dung Gate, first mentioned in 445 BC by the prophet Nehemiah, opens near the Western Wall and was given its name in medieval times because dumping dung here was considered an especially worthy act. The Zion Gate connects the Armenian Quarter with Mt. Zion. Herod’s Gate stands to the east of Damascus Gate, and the New Gate, opened in 1889 to facilitate access to the Christian Quarter, lies to the west.

You can walk atop all parts of the wall except those surrounding the Temple Mount. In addition to the unsurpassed view of the Old City, this walk will give you an idea of the wall’s military importance throughout the centuries. Clearly labelled near Jaffa Gate are slits for pouring boiling oil on attackers. You can ascend the ramparts (as the walkway is called) after purchasing tickets at the Citadel and the Damascus or Jaffa Gates (tel. 23 12 21). (By the way, some people don’t give Jaffa Gate the respect it deserves. Gustave Flaubert, famed author of Madame Bovary, recalled: “We enter through Jaffa Gate and 1 let a fart escape as I cross the threshold very involuntarily. I was even annoyed at bottom by this Voltaireanism of my anus.” You would be too.) Each ticket is valid for unlimited admission within two days of the time stamped on your stub (3 days if you buy your ticket on Friday). Once you have a ticket in hand, you don’t owe a shekel to the self-appointed “guards” who might approach you along the way. Women should never walk alone on the walls, even during the day; cases of sexual assault have been reported-even if you can run, you can’t hide. (Walls open Sat.-Thurs. 9am-4pm, Fri. 9am-2pm. Admission NIS5, students NIS2.5O; ask about the NIS3.80 group rate.)

SIGHTS Old City

Several groups offer complete tours of the Old City. Walking Tours Ltd., 26 A«avetz St. (tel. 52 25 68, Sun.-Fri. 8am-8pm) operates David’s “City of David"tours of the four quarters, from the Citadel courtyard outside Jaffa Gate (Sun.-Fri.am and 2pm, 3-3i4hrs., US$7, students US$5), as well as other, more specific tours.or the same price. Zion Walking Tours (tel. 28 78 66 or 71 35 43) leave at 9am,’am, and 2pm from their Jaffa Gate office and include the Ramparts Walk. They offer a tour of the Mount of Olives (Thurs. 9am, US$12, students US$10).^i-cheological Seminars Ltd. (tel. 27 35 15) offers a handful of tours, all preceded 9 3~!ort serninars/slide shows, for US$13. Meet at 34 Habad St., above the Cardo, at sen schedules for the various tour groups, as well as the monthly edule for the free walking tours sponsored by the Jerusalem Municipality. The Jewish Student Information Center, a.k.a. Jeff Seidel (tel. 28 83 38, but no real need to call-he’ll find you), offers regular tours, but prepare for proselytizing; Jeff wants you to love Jerusalem and God and to stay near both. Permanently.

The Holyland Hotel in West Jerusalem (tel. 43 77 77) has a scholarly and dramatic model of Jerusalem in 66 AD, the time of the Second Temple. Scaled to about one-fiftieth of the city’s size, the knee-high model was reconstructed according to historical documents and contains authentic building materials. A step up from the grandeur of Graceland, the model is well done and offers a giant’s eye view of a Jerusalem mostly vanished. Take bus #21 from downtown. (Open Sat.-Thurs. 8am-9pm, Fri. 8am-5:3Opm. Admission NIS15, students N1S10.)

East Jerusalem

Although East Jerusalem may not look like a paragon of cleanliness, excellent and usually safe falafel and spicy kabab can be purchased from street vendors for less than NIS2. Nasser Eddin Bros, on Suleiman St., across from Damascus Gate and to the right, just past the bus station, stocks almost everything but fresh produce. (Open daily 8am-3pm.)

Salah ad-Din Street buzzes with restaurants open on Saturday. The following restaurants are open on Fridays and during Ramadan:

Abuzeid Oriental Sweets, Suleiman St. (tel. 27 50 52). A bakery with primarily Arab clientele. Baklava NIS20 per kilo. Tasty knaffeb NIS2 or NIS4 a plate. Open daily 8am-3pm, sometimes later.

Petra Restaurant, 11 Rashid St. (tel 28 36 55). Fancy dining room interior. Salads NIS2. Entrees NIS20-30. Complete meal US$15. Open daily noon-midnight. Manager-owner Abu Nasser may offer a 20% discount for Let’s Go users.

West Jerusalem

The spices, aromas, and flavors of West Jerusalem’s complex edibles come from the Middle East, Italy, Eastern Europe, India, France, China, Ethiopia, Morocco, Yemen, Ind Russia, Most eateries close Friday afternoon and reopen Saturday night after sundown, so stock up at the markets on Thursday and Friday mornings. Pick up the Jerusalem Post “Good Food Guide” and Jerusalem Mentis magazine from the tourist office and ask about dinners hosted by Israeli families.

The cheapest food is sold in Mahaneh Yehuda, the raucous open-air market ketween Jaffa Rd. and Agrippas St., to the west of the city center. Fruit and vegetable stands, pita bakeries, and sumptuous displays of pastries line the alleys, and there’s a small grocery store (makolet) with rock-bottom prices at almost every corner. You can find pita here at 10 for NIS2 or less, and tomatoes at NIS2 per kilo. The Yemenite section (follow the alleys leading east from Mahaneh Yehuda St.) is the cheapest for produce, and the stands along Etz haHayim St. sell the best halva at NIS5perha!f-kilo. A specialty of the area is me’orav YerusbcUmi ("Jerusalem assortment"), a mix of inner parts grilled with onions and packed in pita pockets. Agrippas St. is lined with me’orav vendors; Sima and Stekiyat Hatzot are rumored to use higher quality meats, if for slightly higher prices. Ask for half a portion (hatzi mana)-it’s more than enough.

FOOD Old City

FOOD Old City The odors of the Old City may not suggest a gourmet’s Mecca, but many eateries do make decent, cheap Middle Eastern food. Linda’s (on Via Dolorosa) serves excellent, hand-made hummus for NIS4. Around the corner, Abu Shukri (200m from Damascus Gate on Al-Wad Rd.) still serves his legendary hummus platters (NIS5). The daring can try the popular chicken restaurants on Khan az-Zeit (look for the huge rotisseries and follow the smell). Khan az-Zeit also drips with sugary-smelling shops selling honey-drenched Arab pastries for NIS3-5 per half-kilo. Fresh, large, soft sesame bagels can be bought from vendors throughout the souk; ask for za’atar, a pungent herb mix in which you can dip your bagel.

Abu Saif and Sons (tel. 28 68 12), just inside Jaffa Gate, beyond the tourist office. Don’t be put off by the tourist-infested location. Great chicken and a wide range of spicy Middle Eastern dishes (NISI 5). Hummus NIS4. Open 8am-8pm.
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East Jerusalem

East Jerusalem has often been a hotbed of Israeli-Palestinian tension, but it is ideal for adventurous souls who want a taste of life in an Arab country without leaving Israel. Visibly Jewish travelers (particularly men in kipot) should exercise caution and expect at least hostile stares. East Jerusalem’s history may not rival that of the Old City, nor its conveniences those of West Jerusalem, but you’ll find excellent values in accommodations here. Women should be careful walking alone at night in East Jerusalem, but most residents are more than friendly if you make an effort to be sociable. Fotir hostels cluster on HaNevi’im St., which intersects with Suleiman St. and Nablus Rd. across from Damascus Gate.

Faisal Youth Hostel, 4 HaNevi’im St. (tel. 27 24 92). Clean. Gorgeous view of Damascus Gate from balcony. Pleasant, personal atmosphere, but bunks may be cramped. Kitchen, tea, and storage available. Curfew lam. Camping on roof N1S10. Dorm beds NIS12. Doubles NIS35.

Palm Hostel, 6 HaNevi’im St. (tel. 27 31 89). Clean and green. “Run by backpackers for the backpackers.” Hosts a feline named Rocky. Convivial atmosphere. Dorm beds NIS13. Doubles NIS39.

West Jerusalem

Accommodations in central West Jerusalem may lack the charm of some Old City hostels, but they are close to most tourist services, entertainment establishments, and sights, including the Old City itself. They are also generally safer. To fully appreciate and explore Jerusalem’s efflorescent nightlife you should register at a hostel with no curfew. (New dance clubs in Jerusalem’s southern neigliborhood of Talpiot rock until 4-5am on weekends.) Most hostels operate year-round, and, though prices do not automatically drop in the off-season, you can bargain more successfully then. Accommodations in private houses are another option. Locals may approach you at the bus station, but be aware that their places may not be licensed and thus not subject to government inspection. Women should exercise caution. As always, you save the 18% VAT if you pay in dollars.

If you’ll be living in Jerusalem for over two months, consider renting an apartment, especially during July and August when many Israeli students are on vaca-0oi- A single room in a shared apartment will cost at least US$200 per month. The source of information is the classified section of the local weekly Kol ha’Ir find someone to translate, and submit an ad of your own requesting an apartm (ads are free). A thorough but more expensive option is the She’al Service, 21 George St. (tel. 25 69 19). This agency’ grants one month’s access to its voluminous listings in English for NIS59 (open Sun.-Thurs. 8:30am-7pm, Fri. 8:30am-lpm). The bulletin boards at Hebrew University and upstairs at the Israel Center on the comei of Strauss and HaNevi’im St. may also be helpful. The “Bed and Breakfast” listings at the GTIO are also a reliable source for monthly rentals.

Jewish Quarter

Old City Youth Hostel (HI), 2 Bikur Holim (tel. 28 86 11). Walk down David St. into the market and follow the signs right onto St. Mark’s Rd., right again across from the Lutheran Hostel, and up the narrow street with half-arches. Clean, airy, and located in a renovated hospital. Louse-free lounge and refrigerator, but the kitchen is reserved for the staff. No smoking. TV, or radio on Shabbat. Usually crowded with school groups and soldiers. Closed 9am-5pm. 1 lpm curfew. US$ 10, nonmembers US$ 11. Breakfast included.

Heritage House, for men at 2 Or haHaim St. (tel. 27 22 24), for women at 7 haMtiekh St. (tel. 28 18 20). Free during the week and for US$7 Fri.-sundown Sat., but only if you’re Jewish. Will try to accommodate groups including non-Jews, but not unaccompanied non-Jews. Closed Sun.-Thurs. 9am-5pm, curfew midnight (winter 11pm). Closed Fri. 9am-3:30pm (winter 2:30pm) and 6-9pm, curfew 11pm. Closed Sat. 10am-2:30pm, curfew 11pm.

Near Damascus Gate

Austrian Hospice, 37 Via Dolorosa, P.O. Box 19600 (tel. 89 43 32, fax 28 21 63)j Just to the left of al-Wad Rd. Embassy-like; watch out for visiting dignitaries. Spa- i cious, walled grounds and spotless rooms. Wheelchair-accessible. German library and great view from the roof. Ausgezeichnet! Dorm beds US$10. Singles US$40. Doubles US$60. Triples US884. Breakfast included.

Ecce Homo Convent, Eastern Via Dolorosa, P.O. Box 19056 (tel. 28 24 45). Turn left onto Via Dolorosa from Al-Wad Rd.; the small “Notre Dame de Sion” sign is down the road on the door on the left. The Sisters of Sion provide blissful refuge and a transcendental view over the domes of Jerusalem. Kitchen and study area.
Curfew 11 pm. The hostel is for women only (dorm beds US$7). Guest house has singJe cubicles with bed and sink for men or women, US$14. Singles US$22. Doubles US$38. Breakfast included.

Film Developing : Practical Infrormation

Film Developing: Kodak Express, 25 King George St. (25 65 57). NIS38 for 36 medium-sized prints. Photo Yehezkel, 47 Jaffa Rd. (tel. 25 55 90), in the alleyway opposite the Lotto booth. NIS7.30 per roll, then NIS0.55 for each picture. I One free enlargement with every roll. Open Sun.-Thurs. 9am-l :30pm and 4-7:30pm, Fri. 9am-l:3Opm. Photo HaBira, 91 Jaffa Rd. (tei. 23 19 15). Developing NIS8, each picture NISO.55. Open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-lpm and 4-7pm, Fri. 8am-2pm.

Near Jaffa Gate

Lutheran Youth Hostel, 7 St. Mark’s Rd. (tel. 28 21 20 or 89 47 35). Enter Jaffa Gate, cross the square, turn right onto Al-Khattab, left onto Maronite Convent Rd., and right again at St. Mark’s Rd. The outstanding facilities include an inner stone courtyard, lush gardens, and a kitchen with a dining hall worthy of the Last Sup-per. Bunk beds in clean dorms (NIS20). Free lockers. The Lutheran Guest house next door has singles for US$38 and doubles for US$63, breakfast included.

Alice’s Rush Inn Youth Hostel, 42 St. Marks Rd. (tel. 28 00 74), on the way to the Lutheran Hostel. If you yearn for mothering, Alice is here. Her big personality warms up this compact establishment, with crowded bedrooms and equally cramped bathrooms. Small kitchen with refrigerator. Alice guards valuables against theft: “Twelve years open, no problem.” Dorm beds NIS15, winter NIS10. Singles NIS3O-5O.

Jaffa Gate Youth Hostel, on an alley off al-Khattab St. at the entrance to the market; look for the sign. The long, vaulted dorm room with rows of cots has a spiritual aura, but the old armchairs in the TV lounge are down to earth. Patio looks like an outdoor cafe. Kitchen, fridge, TV, and showers. Open all day. Noon check-out, midnight curfew. Dorm beds NIS12. Doubles NIS35.
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Accommodations

Old City Many of Jerusalem’s cheapest and most comfortable hostels-from quiet sanctuaries to wild tourist hang-outs-are located in the Old City. The views from the rooftops and balconies, not to mention the proximity to major sights, make up for the wake-up call provided by muezzins at the crack of dawn and by the morning hustle and bustie of the market. Lodgings cluster near Jaffa and Damascus Gates. Accommodations in the Jaffa Gate area are more accessible from West Jerusalem: Walk down Jaffa Rd. or Agron St. to the end or take bus #3, 13,19, 20, 30, 41, or 99.

The hotels and hostels in the Damascus Gate area, in the middle of the Arab souk, are cheaper and livelier. If business seems slow you can bargain for a lower price. You can reach Damascus Gate by walking to the end of HaNevi’im St. or by taking bus #1, 23, 27, 44, or 99- Women should exercise great care if they wander deep into the souk. Avoid walking alone through the Damascus Gate area after dark, and don’t leave valuables and luggage unattended in Old City hotel rooms if you can avoid it. Only the busiest streets in the Old City are lit at night; learn the way back to your 1 hostel during the day.

Books and Tours

lerusalem’s legends and history are best absorbed through advance reading or an extensive guided tour. The most interesting, unusual, and easy-to-follow guidebook is footloose in Jerusalem (NIS31) by Sarah Fox Kaminker. For a more humorous look at the City of Gold, buy Marty’s Walking Tours of Biblical Jerusalem (NIS8). Marty Isaacs outlines itineraries on the Mount of Olives and through the City of David Discovering Jerusalem (NIS90), by Nahman Avigad. is a fascinating description of the most recent digs around the Old City; it’s available in hardcover only. Nitza Rosovsky’sjerusa/emtvalks (NIS40) is by far the most thoughtful guide to the city’s lesser known avenues and well worth the price.

David Benvenisti’s Tours in Jerusalem (NIS23) is cheaper and has good directions. QuarteHour Walking Tour of the Jewish Quarter (NIS5) is cheaper, more interesting, and more comprehensive than many of the books describing guided walking tours. Guide to the Holy Land (US$11 at Christian Information Center), written by a Franciscan monk, describes sites of Christian significance in exhaustive detail. Architecture buffs will appreciate The Holyland (NIS66) by Jerome Murphy O’Connor. Finally, athletes should pick up Carta’s Jogger’s Guide to Jerusalem (NIS22). The book details runs (or long walks) amidst historic areas and sights. Most of these books are available at Steimatzky and other bookstores throughout the city. Hebrew Union College, 13 King David St. (tel. 20 33 33 or 25 14 78), has an air-conditioned library with an extensive collection of books about Jerusalem (open Sun-Thurs. 8:3Oam-5pm). Seek in the Bible and ye shall find endless references to Jerusalem (particularly II Samuel 5,1 Kings 3 and 6, II Kings 24^25, Psalms 122 and 137, and the Gospels).
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Police : Practical Infrormation

police: For emergencies dial 100. Located in the Russian Compound (tel. 39 11 11), off Jaffa Rd. in West Jerusalem. Old City branch, inside Jaffa Gate to your right, has a tourist desk (tel. 27 32 22, ext. 33, 34; open 6:30am-10pm). Information (tel. 24 61 96).

Medical Emergency : Practical Infrormation

Medical Emergency: Tel. 101. Look for Magen David Adorn (Israeli Red Cross) next to the central bus station or inside Dung Gate in the Old City (tel. 52 31 33) Newspapers list 24-hr, hospitals and pharmacies on duty for emergencies. Blue Cross-Blue Shield members are eligible for pre-paid hospitalization at Hadassah Ein Kerem and Mt. Scopus hospitals (tel. 77 60 40 for information).

First Aid for Tourists: Bikur Holim Hospital, 74 HaNevi’im St. (tel. 70 11 11), corner of Strauss St., the continuation of King George St. past Jaffa Rd. Open 24 hrs.

Pharmacy : Practical Infrormation

Pharmacy: Superpharm, 5 Burla St. (tel. 63 93 21), near Hebrew U., Giv’at Ram campus, bus #17. Open 9am-9pm and Sat. night. Also at 3 HaHistadrut (tel. 24 62 44/5), between Ben-Yehuda and King George streets. Open Sun.-Thurs. 8:30am-10pm, Fri. 8:30am-3pm, Sat. sundown-1 lpm. Alba Pharmacy, 7 Ben-Yehuda St. (tel. 25 77 85), next to Cafe Atara. Open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-7pm, Fri. 8am-2pm-There are many pharmacies in the City Center area. There are no 24-hr, pharmacies in Jerusalem. Two are open until 1 lpm every night on a rotating schedule, and are on-duty for night and Sbabbat calls. Schedules and phone numbers available on any pharmacy door and in newspapers.

Help Lines : Practical Infrormation

Help Lines: Rape Crisis Center, tel. 51 44 55. 24 hrs. English spoken. Theywill accompany you to the police and explain procedures. Mental Health Hotline, tel. 22 71 71 or 61 03 03. Called Eran-Emotional First Aid. English spoken. Assists tourists. Open 8am-l lpm. When closed, Hebrew recording gives you alter-Date number to call. Alcoholics Anonymous, tel. 63 05 24 or 35 13 03.

Services for the Disabled: Yad Sarah Organization, 43 HaNevi’im St. (tel. 24 42 42). Loans medical equipment to the disabled. Free, but deposit of full value required. Extraordinarily helpful. Equipment can be borrowed for 1 month with an option to extend for up to three months. Look for a big blue former train. Open Sun.-Thurs. 9am-5pm, Fri. 9am-noon.

Film Developing : Practical Infrormation

Film Developing: Kodak Express, 25 King George St. (25 65 57). NIS38 for 36 medium-sized prints. Photo Yehezkel, 47 Jaffa Rd. (tel. 25 55 90), in the alleyway opposite the Lotto booth. NIS7.30 per roll, then NIS0.55 for each picture. I One free enlargement with every roll. Open Sun.-Thurs. 9am-l :30pm and 4-7:30pm, Fri. 9am-l:3Opm. Photo HaBira, 91 Jaffa Rd. (tei. 23 19 15). Developing NIS8, each picture NISO.55. Open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-lpm and 4-7pm, Fri. 8am-2pm.

Swimming Pools : Practical Infrormation

Swimming Pools: Beit Taylor, Zangwill St. (tel. 41 43 62), in Kiryat Yovel, open daily 9am-2pm, women only 2;30-7pm (bus #18 or 24; N1S15). Jerusalem Swimming Pool, Emek Refa’im St. (tel. 63 20 92) open daily 7:30am-6pm (buses #4 or] 18; NIS23). Buy tickets for Sbabbat in advance. Beit Zayit (tel. 24 62 17). Take bus #151 (10 per day) from the central station to Beit Zayit, the last stop. Tell driver you want the pool. Open Sun.-Fri. 8am-5:3Opm, Sat. 9am-5:30pm. N1S18, (children NIS12), Fri. and Sat. NIS23 (children NIS18); see Accommodations and Camping for more information on Beit Zayit.

Laundry : Practical Infrormation

Laundry: Baka Washmatic, 35 Emek Refa’im St. (tel. 63 18 78). Take bus #4, 14, 18, or 24 from the city center, get off at the Emek Refa’im post office, and cross the street and continue for Vi block. Open Sun.-Thurs. 7am-7pm, Fri. 7am-2pm. Wash, dry, and fold with large machine NIS38: with small machine NIS30. Manager Jason White offers 20% discount to Let’s Go users. HaMerkaz Laundry, 11 KakalSt. (tel. 66 42 46), just off of UssishkinSt. Open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-lpm and 3-7pm, Fri. 8am-lpm. Up to 5kg wash and dry NIS25. Superclean Laundromat, 16 Palmah St. (tel. 66 03 67), bus #15. Open Sun.-Thurs. 7am-7pm, Fri. 7am-2pm. Wash, dry, and fold N1S22.

Ticket Agencies : Practical Infrormation

Ticket Agencies: Ben Nairn, 38 Jaffa Rd. (tel. 25 40 08); Bimot, 8 Shammai St. (tel. 23 40 61); and Kla’im, 12 Shammai St. (tel. 25 68 69). All 3 open Sun.-Thurs. 9am-lpm and 4-7pm, Fri. 9am-7pm.

Jewish Student Information Center : Practical Infrormation

Jewish Student Information Center: 5 Beit El. Jewish Quarter (tel. 28 83 38

Jewish National Fund: Plant a Tree with Your Own Hands program in the Jerusalem Forest. Take bus #19 or 27 to the last stop; go into main entrance of Hadassah Ein Kerem hospital and ask for Tannenbaum Center where JNF representative is present (Sun.-Thurs. 8:3Oam-3pm, Fri. 8:30am-noon). 1 tree NIS24. Or! contact the JNF at 1 Keren Kayemet St., tel. 63 96 50 or 61 12 85/6.