Peki’in (Bke’ah)

Peki’in (Bke’ah in Arabic) is known as the spot where Rabbi Shimon Bar-Yohai and his son, Eliezer, fled from a Roman decree prohibiting the study of Torah. For 13 years, the erudite duo hid in a small cave in the hillside, sustained by a nearby spring and fertile carob tree. During this time, some Jews believe they composed the Zohar, the single most important text of Kabbala (Jewish mysticism). The cave is historical and holy, but humble; much of the attraction of the site is the town itself, a colorful village of both Druze and Christian Arabs.

To visit the holy cave, take the winding road leading up from the bus stop to the top of the village. When you reach a marking stone and a blue-and-white sign on your right, take the dirt path down to the stairway. Walk downstairs until a large bush is in front of you, and turn right between two large rocks. The tiny cave is on your right. Continue down the stairway to the bottom. Turn right onto the narrow street and follow it until you reach Kikkar haMa’ayan ("Spring Square"). You’ll see an odd-shaped pool of water fed by the underground spring for which the square is named.

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Yehi’am (judin) Fortress

Built in the 12th century by the Templars, Judin Fortress (tel. 92 48 09) was passed i on to the Teutonic Knights in the 13th. Although destroyed by the Mamluk Sultan Baybars in 1265, visitors can see remains of restoration efforts done 500 years later by Mahad al-Hussein, the local sheikh; in 1738, the fortress was conquered by the Bedouin ruler Dahar al-Omar.

Kibbutz Yehi’am was started in 1946 by a group that settled in the deserted castle; the fortress is still within the kibbutz grounds, and now even bears its name. Impressive views of the Western Galilee highlands are afforded from the well-preserved tower. (Open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-5pm, Fri. and holidays 8am-4pm. Admission NIS5, students NIS3-30) Buses #39 and 42 (NIS4.50) from Nahariya stop right by the fortress.

Montfort

The Crusader castle of Montfort features resplendent ruins and scenery after a challenging hike. Wind-swept and solitary, the fortification juts dramatically over a deep valley of Western Galilee. The main structure was built by the Knights Templar early in the 12th century and partially destroyed by Salali ad-Din in 1187- Enlarged and strengthened by the Hospitaller Knights in 1230, the fortress was named Starken-burg ("strong castle” in German), as well as Montfort ("strong mountain” in French). You can still see the impressive 18m tower and 20m main hall, along with the remains of the fortress complex.

Buses #40, 41, 44, and 45 leave Nahariya for the Christian Arab village of Mi’ilya throughout the day. From the stop turn right onto the steep road towards Mi’ilya, bearing left at every fork. After a 30-minute walk (2.5km) you’ll see a wooden sign for Montfort. The road veers right to the new village of Hila, but continue straight onto the dirt road directly ahead. Follow the red-and-white-striped trail markers along the windy, rocky path another 30 minutes (1.5km; you’ll pass a set of stone steps on your right, an alternate route to the top); the path to the castle abruptly turns to the right, across a small bridge and up the rocks. The site is currently under renovation and officially closed, but visitors can still be seen around.

Akhziv Anax

Akhziv beach (tel. 82 39 88), which begins about 4km north of Nahariya, is popular (and populated), with showers, shade, changing rooms, and kiosk (open 8am-2am; j admission NIS7, students NIS5). Two roads lead to the beach: the paved road along j the coast which ends here, and the unpaired, noncoastal road on which buses stop, j The historical heart of the area is the Akhziv National Park (tel. 82 32 63), with its sprawling lawns and sheltered beach (complete with showers and changing rooms), on the remains of an 8th-century Phoenician port town. (Park open daily i 8am-7pm.

Admission NIS9.50, students NIS7.) Bordering the park on its southern side is a Club Med; on the northern side is Akhzivland, a self-proclaimed independent state founded in 1952 by the wonderfully eccentric Eli Avivi, who leased the land from an unamused Israeli government. An eye-catching figure in his flowing : robes, Avivi is unforgettable-particularly when kvetchy customs officials try to fig- jre out the “Akhzivland” stamp on your passport. Eli’s Museum (tel. 82 32 50), housed in a deteriorated but striking Arab mansion, exhibits the benevolent dictator’s extensive and esoteric collection of implements, statue fragments, and maps, niostly from the Phoenician period. (Open daily 24 hrs.; admission NIS5-) Steeping jflside the dilapidated camping area costs NIS25, in one of Eli’s newly constructed guest rooms, NIS42. Parking and beach admission included.

Rosh haNikra

Although Lebanon, one of the world’s most war-torn nations, hovers too close for] comfort, Rosh haNikra’s spectacular white chalk cliffs and caves remain open to] tourists. When you descend into the serene beauty of the grottos, it’s easy to forget the Israeli border station and patrols overhead. Rosh HaNikra’s cool caves have been sculpted by millennia of lashing waves. These natural grottos were enlarged when a j tunnel, originally designed as a train route between Haifa and Beirut, was dug through the cliffs by the British during World War II.

The nearby kibbutz, seeing the potential for tourism, blasted additional tunnels] through the rock to improve access to the sea caves and topped the cliffs with anj observation point and cafeteria. The highway from Nahariya ends at the observation! point, making the cable car the only way down to the caves. (Tel, 85 71 08; operates] Sun.-Thurs. 8:30am-6pm, Fri. 8:30am-4pm; in July and Aug. 8:30am-l0pm; in winter 8:30am-4pm; admission NISI8, students NI516.) Buses #20 and 22 make the trip! from Nahariya to Rosh haNikra (NIS4.5O) at 9:15am, 11:30am. and 2:30pm. ThJ buses return to Nahariya at 9:40am, 11:55am, and 3pm. (Translation: you either] have too much time or too little.) Other buses run from Nahariya to the junction, but require a 3km walk uphill to the cable cars. A taxi from Nahariya may be willing! to take you sherut to the junction (NIS4), special to the site (NIS10).
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The Nahariya Municipal Museum, in the Municipality Building near the bus terminal, has exhibits on art, the archeology of Western Galilee, malacology (sea-shells), the history of Nahariya, and Central European Jewry. (Open Sun. and Wed. lOam-noon and 4-6pm, Mon.-Tues. and Thurs.-Fri. 8am-noon. Free.) An ornate mosaic floor is all that remains of a 4th-century Byzantine church (tel. 92 21 21), on Bielefeld St. near the Katzenelson School. Inquire at the tourist office to arrange for a visit (open dairy 9-1 lam; free).

Nahariya’s ration d’etre remains, predictably, tanning and swimming. The main beach is the crowded Galei Galil, featuring a lifeguard and a breakwater. Walk down HaGa’aton Blvd. and turn right at the end (open 8am-6pm; Sept.-June 8am-5pm,; admission NIS10). The 10 shekels cover admission to the heated indoor pool (open year-round), the Olympic-size outdoor pool, and the kiddy pools. The pools and beach are clean, the bathrooms not as clean. All facilities are jammed on Saturdays. South of Galei Galil is a free beach without a breakwater. Local kids surf here ^ith the same lunatic exuberance that makes driving in Israel such fun. Thank God surfboards don’t have horns. Farther south is a free municipal beach.
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Sights and Entertainment The remains of a 4000-year-old Canaanite Temple dedicated to Asherah, the goddess of fertility, were accidentally discovered in 1947 on the hill next to the town’s shore. To reach the ruins, walk south along the beach for about 20 minutes. While the site itself is unimpressive, a gentle amble along the shore soothes the soul.

The Mane Katz Art Museum, 89 Yefeh Nof St. (tel. 38 34 82), just behind Panorama Center, displays sculptures and canvases by Mane Katz, a member of the Paris group of Jewish Expressionists that included Modigliani, Chagall, and Cre-megne. (Open Sun.-Thurs. 10am-4pm, Fri. and Sat. lOam-lpm. Free.) Walk north along scenic Yefeh Nof St. to the intersection of HaTzionut, where (opposite 135 HaTzionut) a sculpture garden contains striking bronzes by Ursula Malkin.

Haifa’s two major academic complexes overlook the slopes at the opposite end of the Carmel ridge. To reach Haifa University, boasting the largest percentage of Arab students in all of Israel’s higher education institutions, take bus #24 or 37 from the central bus station, Herzl St., or die Carmel Center and ask to be let off at the next to last stop. The university’s landmark is the elegant 30-story Eshkol Tower, crowning the vast flat main building which is the focus of student activities.
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Accommodations and Food

There are no cheap hostels in Nahariya. During the summer, many rooms and bungalows are available in private homes. “Rooms to Rent” signs are common on Jabotinsky St.; head west on HaGa’aton to the post office and take a right onto Jabotinsky (NIS45 or more, but polite bargaining may help). The MTIO also keeps a list of rooms for rent, but this list doesn’t include prices. The Kalman Hotel (HI), 27 Jabotinsky St. and one block from the beach (tel. 92 03 55. fax 92 96 90), has a 3-star hotel rating and is not cheap; but it’s speckless and spacious, with A/C, TV, and private bathrooms. Owner Miron Teich-ner will give you coupons for the beach and restaurants, and show off the signatures of big-shots who’ve stayed here, including Ezer Weizman, Shimon Peres, and Sophia Loren.

(For Let’s Go holders, singles US$25, doubles US$40, triples US$56. Room #26, sans TV, is available as a single for US$20 or double for US$30. Excellent buffet breakfast included.) Sirtash House, 22 Jabotinsky St. (tel. 92 25 86), has lean, cozy doubles (NIS80) with private bathrooms (some with small kitchens). Motel Arieli, 1 Jabotinsky St. (tel. 92 10 76), offers neat rooms with A/C in bungalows and a main building. Next to HaGa’aton and the beach. (Bungalow, 4-5 beds, NIS40. Doubles NIS90-100.) Beit Gabiazda, 12 Jabotinsky St. (tel. 92 10 49), has A/C, private bathrooms, and kitchen facilities. (Doubles MS80, NIS100 in July and Aug., but try to bargain.)
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Orientation and Practical Information 10km north of Akko and the same distance south of Rash haNikra’s sea caverns, Nahariya is the northernmost town on Israel’s coast. The roads from cities further to the north run to the beaches and parks of Akhziv (3km north, a 40-min. walk). Nahariya itself is minuscule; nearly every service you’ll need is located on HaGa’aton Blvd. To reach the beaches, walk a few blocks west on HaGa’aton and stop when you get wet.

Nahariya’s Municipal Tourist Information Office (MTIO) is on HaGa’aton Blvd. (tel. 92 98 00), on the ground floor of the Municipality Building. From the bus station, walk west on HaGa’aton until you reach the plaza on your left just after Herzl St.; the MTIO is the large wliite building at the end of the plaza. (Open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-lpm and 4-7pm, Fri. 8am-lpm.) Mercantile Discount Bank (tel. 92 46 11), Israel Discount (te!. 92 88 81), and Bank Leumi (tel. 92 56 31) are all on HaGa’aton Blvd. (Most open Sun., Tues., and Thurs. 8:30am-12;30pm and 4-6′pm, Mon. and Wed. 8:30am-12:30pm, Fri. 8:30am-noon.) The post office, at 40 HaGa’aton Blvd. (tel. 92 01 80), has Poste Restante. (Open Sun.-Tues. and Thurs. 8am-l 2:30pm and 3:306pm, Wed. 8am-l:30pm, Fri. 8am-12:3Opm.)
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Nahariya & Western Galilee - Nahariya

Nahariya is the definitive one-street resort town: bus and train station on one end, ocean on the other, and pleasant commercial strip between. In 1934 German Jews first settled the area as a farming village on the Ga’aton River, which now, dwindled by pumps upstream, trickles unimpressively in a concrete channel down the center of the main thoroughfare. Though equipped with a fine beach and some lively bars, popular with UN soldiers stationed in southern Lebanon, the town is more noteworthy as a convenient base for sights to the northern coast antl Western Galilee.

Near Akko - Lohamei HaGeta’ot

Lohamei HaGeta’ot ("Fighters of the Ghettos"), a kibbutz founded by concentration camp and Warsaw Ghetto survivors, lies outside Akko toward Nahariya. The Ghetto Fighters’ House (tel. 82 04 12 or 82 55 42) is dedicated to the memory of World War II resistance fighters and ghetto rebels. The heroic Warsaw Ghetto uprising is examined extensively, as are Nazi atrocities in other countries. Much of the museum displays the rich and vital Jewish cultural life of the Warsaw Ghetto (in particular the poetry of Yitzhak Katzenelson), as well as paintings, drawings, litho graphs, sculptures, and prints by prisoners and survivors. To reach the kibbutz and ; museum, take bus #271 (which runs on Sat. too) toward Nahariya (make sure that j the bus is local (me’asef), not express, or you’ll end up in Nahariya). (Museum open 1 Sun.-Thurs. 9am-4pm. Fri. 9am-lpm, Sat. I0am-5pm. Small donation requested.)

The Roman aqueduct, just outside the museum to the south, is remarkably well preserved, largely because it’s not Roman. AI-Jaz2ar had it built in 1780 to carry water 15km from the Kabri springs to their stronghold in Akko. Good views of the | aqueduct can be had from the bus between Akko and Nahariya.

Two km south of the kibbutz bloom the Baha’i Gardens (tel. 81 27 63), arranges in a riveting combination of Occidental and Oriental styles. The gardens hold the villa and shrine of Baha’if Ilah (Glory of God), the prophet and founder of the Baha’i faith. The gardens were planted from 1952-56 to beautify the site. (Shrine open Mon. and Fri.-Sun. 9am-noon; gardens open daily until 9-4pm. Free.)

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Sights and Entertainment No itinerary can do justice to the aura of history and conflict that emanates from the ruins and fortifications of old Akko. To reach the Old City from the bus station by foot, walk down Ben Ami St. to Weizmann St. and turn left. The entrance to the Old City is just past Eli Cohen Park on the left.

As you pass the Al-Jazzar wall, look for the moat beneath the Burj al-Kommander to the left. The entrance to the Mosque of Al-Jazzar is to your right on Al-Jazzar St. The third largest mosque in Israel and the most important one outside Jerusalem, it dominates this city of monuments with its green dome and sleek minaret. Ahmed al-Jaz-zar ordered its construction in 1781 on what is believed to have been the site of San Croce, the original Christian cathedral of Akko. Inside is an attractive courtyard with Roman columns taken from Caesarea. The western end of the courtyard rests upon the cellar of a Crusader fortress. The surrounding structures are lodgings for students of the Qur’an and the personnel of the mosque. The small building in front of the mosque houses the sarcophagi of Ahmed al-Jazzar and his adopted son, Suleiman Pasha. The tower was destroyed by an earthquake in 1927, but promptly restored; the rest of the complex is in magnificent condition.

In front of the mosque sits an octagonal sabil (fountain) where the faithful perform wudhu, the ritual washing of their heads, hands, and feet before entering the sanctuary. Inside, in the green cage on the balcony to the right, is a shrine containing a hair from the beard of the prophet Muhammad. As in all mosques, prayers are conducted five times per day, and you will be asked to wait or return in 20 minutes if you arrive during a prayer session.

The Lighthouse Restaurant (tel, 91 76 40), under its namesake near the HI hostel- has tables overlooking the water and invites evening idling. Hostel patrons receive a 10% discount (kabab N1S18, hummus NIS7). By the marina is the more expensive Abu Christo restaurant (tel. 91 00 65). Daredevils occasionally take a dive off the three-story store wall into the water near the restaurant.

Around the corner from the hostel, heading away from the lighthouse, is the Pita Bakery, where hot pita bread is peddled for a pittance in the pre-noon period. Galileo Restaurant, in the Pisan Harbor, has the standard Middle Eastern munchies at slightly inflated prices. Have drinks and ice cream at Cafe Tuscans (up the stairs in the Pisan Harbor), for the jaw-dropping view of the sea and Old Akko. You can buy food at the outdoor market next to the central bus station and at the sbuk in the Old City. Farther from the hostel are the food stands and small supermarkets on Yehoshafat St. off Ben Ami St., and a number of falafel stands huddle near the corner of Weizmann and Ben Ami St.

Accommodations and Food The Akko Youth Hostel (HI) (tel. 91 19 82) is across from the old lighthouse within the Old City walls. The airy lounge and several Old City from the bus, making a left onto Napoleon “Blown-apart” Bonaparte St. and another left onto HaHagana St. when you reach the water. Follow HaHagana to the lighthouse; the hostel is 30m to the left. (Curfew 10:30pm. Dorm beds, 8-12 per room, NIS17; nonmembers NIS20. Doubles N1S22, nonmembers NIS25. Breakfast NIS9, lockers NIS4.) Walied’s Gate Hostel, Salah ad-Din St. (tel. 91 04 10 or 91 47 00, fax 91 04 54), next to Land Gate, is a simple family-run establishment. Reception is open 24 hrs., but curfew is midnight.

Kitchen and laundry (NIS15 for wash and dry) facilities available. (Co-ed and single-sex dorms, 4-10 beds per room, NIS15. Doubles NIS50. Breakfast NIS5.) Alternatively, try Paul’s Hostel and Souvenir Shop, (tel. 91 28 57), just opposite the lighthouse at the southern end of HaHagana St., under a white awning with blue metal poles. Ask anyone in the shop for Paul Elias, who will take you to his 12-bed hostel located in his family’s building just behind the shop. Hostel guests live in a large, Crusader-domed room with adjacent bathroom, shower, and kitchen. Each guest gets a key to the hostel rooms. (NIS15. Shop open daily 8am-10pm.) There are additional unofficial and uoregulated hostels or rooms for rent in the Old City, but get the tourist office’s opinion of the place before you make a decision you might regret. The port area can be dangerous at night, especially for women alone. Beach camping is forbidden.

Orientation and Practical Information To reach Akko from Haifa or ^ah, take bus #252 or 272 (express), which departs every 15 minutes ). New and old Akko are connected by Hayim Weizmann Street. From central bus station, Herzl Street runs to Weizmann. HaHagana Street hugs the sea to the west from the new city to the lighthouse. On Al-jazzar Street are the I mosque, Crusader City, and information office. The Old City bus stops are opposite I the parking lot.

The central supermarket, central post office, Wolfson Auditorium, and City Hall are on Ha’Atzma’ut, the major street of the new city. The passages of j the peninsular Old City are poorly marked. The market winds its way through the i middle of the peninsula. The Southern Promenade, at the end of HaHagana St., has been developed as a tourist area, with several restaurants and sitting areas built into) the old Pisan Harbor walls and towers.

Akko’s Municipal Tourist Information Office (tel. 91 17 64 or 91 02 51), at the’ entrance to the Crusader City on Al-Jazzar St. across from the mosque, provides -information about sites and special events in Akko and a great map of the new and old cities (NIS2.5O). Get the map before you attempt the Old City.

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Akko (Acre)

just across the mouth of Haifa Bay, Akko is centuries apart from its urban neighbor. Akko (Akka in Arabic, historically written “Acre” in English) is not made up of two cities, as many people believe, but rather three. Inside a bastion of crumbling walls, the 200-year-old Arab town is a labyrinth of alleys and stairwells leading up to ancient Turkish fortifications, only to disappear into the chaos of the streets below, just outside Arab Akko, a rapidly encroaching new city is laying siege to the embat tled ancient walls-a familiar struggle throughout Israel. Undisturbed by this contest stands the vast, subterranean Crusader City, still only partially excavated, directly underneath old Akko and predating it by 600 years. The enormous rooms of this basement city and the network of tunnels lacing through them were fortuitously preserved by the Turks, who found the constructions too solid to raze.

The tumultuous history of Akko reflects the ebb and flow of the contending armies that have washed over it, leaving behind their tell-tale architectural jetsam. The Crusaders came to the city in 1140 on their vainglorious campaign to recapture the Holy Land for Christianity. Failing to take Jerusalem initially, they retreated to peaceful Akko, transforming it into the greatest port of their empire and a worldwide showpiece of culture and architecture. The Mamluks ended Crusader rule in 1290, and almost 500 years later a Bedouin sheikh rebuilt the city.
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Usfiya and Daliyat al-Karmel

Usfiya and Daliyat al-Karmel villages are all that remains of 14 Druze villages thai once prospered on the Carmei; an unsuccessful rebellion against the Egyptian pasha in 1830 led to their destruction. In the 1860s, when the Turks were anxious 10 havd the Druze as a buffer against the Bedouin and Christians who were seeking com verts, they welcomed the Druze back to these two Carmei villages. Some 17,00(1 Druze make their homes here. Druze elders are recognizable by their thick musi taches and flowing white kaffiyehs (headdresses), and Druze women are distinctive in their black robes and white shawls. The Druze are known for being extraordinail ily congenial, even while hawking their wares.

Perhaps once picturesque mountain villages, Usfiya and Daliyat al-Karmel are! overgrown today with unattractive concrete houses. The tourist bazaar in Daliyat al-Karmel is busiest on Saturdays, but come on a weekday if you want lower price! and a better opportunity to converse with locals. You can try to bargain, thougq vendors generally are determined to extract large sums from tourists. A few words of Arabic or Hebrew can lower prices considerably. Be aware that most of tha clothes and jewelry are imported from India, while the furniture comes from Gaza] Wheat stalk baskets, embroidery, and tapestry work are mainly local goods.

Megiddo (Armageddon)

The settlements at Tel Megiddo have been destroyed so many times that the town has truly earned its Latin cognate: “Armageddon.” The New Testament forewarns that at the end of the world demons will go out to all the nations, assembling first at Armageddon (Revelations 16:16). Megiddo’s used to being a meeting place-in ancient times the fortress town bordered the crucial route between Egypt and Mesopotamia that became the Roman Via Maris.

The tel at Megiddo was once thought to date only to King Solomon (c. 950 BQ. Excavations in the 1960s, however, uncovered remains dating back to the Neolithic Age (c. 3500 BC) with 20 layers of ruins. The ruins are mostly unreconstructed except for the grain silo and water tunnel. The site is nonetheless impressive simply for its sheer size (about 900 ft. by 650 ft.). The silo was built on the top of the hill during the reign of King Jeroboam II (787-747 BQ to protect its contents from moisture.

Near Haifa - Beit She’arim

Beneath the fertile soil of Carmel, 19km south of Haifa, the remains of the members of the arcane Hebrew judicial council, the Sanhedrin, rested peacefully for nearly 2000 years- Beginning in 1936, excavations at Beit She’arim disturbed their graves wnen’archeologists found an ancient synagogue and astonishing system of catacombs. Beit She’arim was the gathering place of the Sanhedrin, recognized by the Roman Empire in the 2nd century AD as the Supreme Rabbinical Council, the judicial authority over all of world Jewry. Two hundred years later, it had become a sacred (and secret) burial ground for Jews who were barred from Jerusalem.

Arche-ologists have uncovered a labyrinth of some 20 caves whose walls are lined with dozens of intricately adorned sarcophagi, including one of Rabbi Yehuda haNassi, first president of the Sanhedrin and compiler of the Mishnah. According to inscriptions found on the sarcophagi, many of the buried were brought from as far away as Sidon and Tyre, Babylon, and southern Arabia.
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Entertainment

A number of beaches along the north coast past the Dagon Silo provide a welcome escape from the industrial pulse of the city. HaHof haShaket, the most convenient, costs N1S3.5O; take bus #41 from the Hadar district or the central bus station; it’s ^Jso a 10-minute walk from the bus station. (The old building of Rambam Medical enter, in front of the beach gate, is another one of Erich Medelssohn’s Palestinian Nations.) Hof Bat Galim, also near the central bus station, is small and frequently crowded.

On Saturdays, when those beaches are packed, it’s worth traveling to the ?°uth where you can still see the sand between the bathers. Take bus #44 or 45 to wtf haCamiel, a free beach, or Hof Dado further south; between here and Atlit, it’s hasically one long, free, beautiful beach; privacy increases with distance from the’ city- Shehafit Windsurfing Center (tel. 24 11 27), located in a small white building 1 next to the lower cable car station, rents windsurfing boards (NIS25 per hr.) and div- j ing equipment (NIS95 per day).

The Technion, on the slope directly below the university, is Israel’s internationally acclaimed institute of technology. Founded 1913 in Hadar, the last department (architecture) moved out of the old Technion building off Balfour St. in the mid-1980s to the forested, ever-expanding new campus near Neve Sha’anan. At the Coler Visitors Center (tel. 32 06 64/8), displays and a video describe the history and achievements of the institution. (Open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-2pm. Free.) Take bus #17 from downtown, #31 from Carmel Center, or #19 from the central bus station or Herzl St. to Kiryat haTechnion. (Call 32 06 64 for info on guided tours of campus.)

Beneath the slopes of Mt. Carmel in the Hadar district stands the Haifa Museum, at 26 Shabtai Levi St. (tel. 523255). The museums contains three separate exhibits: Isreal Modern art, ancient art, and Jewish music and ethnology. The ancient art Exhibit on the top floor includes mosaic floors from shikmona, where ancient Haifa was probably lovated, and an extensive collection of suclputures and figurines from the Canaanite era (18th century BQ through Greek and Roman times. The ethnolJ ogy exhibit consists of folk costumes, utensils, and musical instruments from Jewish] communities around the world. (Open Sun.-Mon., Wed., Fri. lOam-lpm: Tues.l Thurs. lOam-lpm and 5-8pm; Sat. 10am-3pm and 5-8pm. Admission NIS7, students! NIS5. The ticket is also good for the Prehistory’ and National Maritime Museums.)! Buses #10, 12, 22,and28 travel to the Haifa Museum.

The Mane Katz Art Museum, 89 Yefeh Nof St. (tel. 38 34 82), just behind Panorama Center, displays sculptures and canvases by Mane Katz, a member of the Paris group of Jewish Expressionists that included Modigliani, Chagall, and Cre-megne. (Open Sun.-Thurs. 10am-4pm, Fri. and Sat. lOam-lpm. Free.) Walk north along scenic Yefeh Nof St. to the intersection of HaTzionut, where (opposite 135 HaTzionut) a sculpture garden contains striking bronzes by Ursula Malkin.

Haifa’s two major academic complexes overlook the slopes at the opposite end of the Carmel ridge. To reach Haifa University, boasting the largest percentage of Arab students in all of Israel’s higher education institutions, take bus #24 or 37 from the central bus station, Herzl St., or die Carmel Center and ask to be let off at the next to last stop. The university’s landmark is the elegant 30-story Eshkol Tower, crowning the vast flat main building which is the focus of student activities.
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Can ha’Em (Mother’s Park) has a delightful municipal zoo (tel. 37 70 19 or 37 28 ag) It’s not exactly an African game reserve, but even a work-wearied zoologist may he surprised at some of the beasts indigenous to this small country. (Open Sun.-Thiirs- 8am-6pm, Fri. 8am-lpm, Sat. 9am-6pm; Sept.-June Sun.-Thurs. 8am-4pm, Fri. gam-lpm, Sat. 9am-4pm;. Admission NIS17, students NIS 13.) Within the zoo are also three museums that provide another perspective on the flora and fauna of northern Israel: the Natural History Museum, the Biological Museum, and the M. Stekelis Museum of Prehistory, which houses archeological finds and dioramas of the prehistoric life of the area, tracing remains found in caves on the western slopes of Mt. Carmel. (All open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-3pm, Fri. 8am-lpm, Sat. 10am-2pm. Admission to zOo includes museums.)

For a brush with nature in the middle of the city, take the SPNI nature trail that begins in Gan ha’Em to the right of the shell-shaped stage. Follow the blue signs into the brush; the path will lead you around the zoo and through tangled greenery into a wadi. The trail is 2km long (about lhr. walking) and ends in the lower Carmel. (Take bus #3 or 5 to get back uptown). Walk down the beautiful, pine-sliaded, quiet side streets off the Carmel Center (try HaYam Rd. and the area just south of it, behind the Haifa Auditorium) for a glimpse at Haifa’s appeal as a residential town.

Sights

The Haifa Municipal Tourist Office, 106 HaNassi Blvd. (tel. 37 40 10), offers an j excellent free walking tour of Haifa’s major attractions every Saturday from 10am to 12:30pm. The touf leaves from the comer of Yefeh Nof (Panorama) St. and Sha’ar hal^vanon; dress modestly for the stops at Baha’i holy places. A few city buses start running about 9:30am, so you can probably catch one to the starting point if you are not staying in the Carmel.

The most active and scenic area in Haifa is the Carmel Center (Merkaz haCar-mel), a shopping and entertainment hub just off the city’s most spectacular mountain-top observations points. Buses #21, 22, 23, 27, and 37 run to Gan ha’Em, the public park, right by the Carmelit terminus. Behind the bustle of the hotels and Panorama shopping mall on HaNassi Blvd., the new Louis promenade, on Yefeh Nof’ St., offers a breezy respite with stunning views of both Haifa below and, on clear days, Upper Galilee and as far as snowy Mt. Hermon and Lebanon in the distance.

Carmel Center

Casa Ristorante Itafiano, 121 HaNassi Blvd. (tel. 38 13 36). A homey place, run by the same family for 30 years. Spaghetti NLS14.90, homemade minestrone NIS8.90, pizza NIS9.90. A favorite among Knesset members and other celebrities-just ask to see the guest book. Look for the brown chairs outside. Open Sun.-Thurs. and Sat. noon-lOpm.

Pissarro, 99 Yefeh Nof Rd. (tel. 37 55 08), at the corner of Sha’arhaLevanon. Laid-! back care/restaurant with a breathtaking view of the city. Pasta NIS18. Open daily 9:30am-midnight.

Kosher Veta’im, 40 Herzl St. near Hayim St. (tel. 64 59 76). Schnitzel or beef meal with side order NIS12. Soups and salad NIS3 each. Kosher. Comfortable and clean dining area; self-service. Hebrew sign only, but look for the strangely-dressed figure beckoning you from above. Open Sun.-Thurs. 10am-6pm, Fri. 10am-2:30pm.

California, 1 Hayim St. (tel. 67 26 28), off Nordau St.; follow the white footprints painted on the sidewalk. For that long-awaited break from falafel, this restaurant/ pub specializes in hearty salads (NIS16.80), omelettes (NIS11-16), and pizza (NIS10 for individual portions, NIS21-31 for an 8-portion pizza). Open Sun.-Thurs. 9am-lam, Fri. 9am-3pm and 10pm-3am, Sat. 4pm-lam.

Hadar

At Benny’s, 23 HaHalutz St. (tel. 62 47 51), near the intersection with HerzlSt. Sign in Hebrew only. Typical Middle Eastern restaurant. Salads (NIS4) and sbishlik (NIS8). Combination with salad and fries NIS12. Open daily 8am-10pm.

Tzimzhonit Hayim, 30 Herzl St. (tel. 67 46 67). Old-style Jewish vegetarian restaurant, catering to an elderly clientele. In operation for 60 years. Salad from NIS4.5O, fish from NIS5. Open Sun.-Thurs. 9am-8pra, Fri. 9am-noon.

Hamber, 61 Herzl St. (tel. 66 6l 39), at the corner of Arlozorov St. Kosher meat meal with salads NIS12. Try the grilled dishes. Open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-10pm, Fri. 8am-2:30pm.

Food
There’s lots of it, tasty and cheap. In Hadar, both HaNevi’im and HaHalutz St. are lined with falafel and sandwich stands, some open on Saturday. On HaNevi’im St., vendors hawk steamy ears of com (tiros), and restaurants offer an eclectic mix of cuisines, including Moroccan, Italian, and Romanian. The main road of the Merkaz haCarmel district, HaNassi Boulevard, is dotted with cafes. Nearly ail establishments in the Carmel are open on Friday nights, but there is no public transportation.

Sinn-Sinn Chinese Restaurant, 28 Yafo Rd. (tel. 64 22 23). Like most Chinese restaurants in Israel, run by a Vietnamese family. Soup, eggroll, salad, main course, and rice NIS16.50. Open Mon.-Thurs. noon-lOpm, Fri. and Sun. noon-3:30pm.

Avraham, King of Falafel, 34 Allenby St. at HaTzionut St. Sign in Hebrew only, hut look for the yellow crowns and giant Pepsi cans flanking the entrance. The locals’ favorite falafel stand (NIS5). Across the street is their main competitor, Ya’akov, King of the King of Falafel. Ya’akov is obviously dreaming-crowds flock to Avraham, and Avraham alone. Open daily lOam-llpm.

Shmulik and Danny, 7 HaBankim St. (tel. 51 44 11), on the second floor. Compact dining hall serves some of the country’s best traditional Ashkenazi Jewish food, including gefilte fish, chopped liver, and tchulent. Appetizers NIS5, entrees NIS12-22, l^-litcr beer NIS6. Open Sun.-Thurs. noon-6pm, Fri. noon-3pm. Kosher.

Nesher Hotel, 53 Herzl St. (tel. 62 06 44), near Bayim St. intersection, above Mercantile Discount Bank. Simple hotel with roof terrace and TV lounge. 24-hr. reception, no lockout, no curfew. Check-out noon. Kitchen facilities. Most rooms have A/C, others have fans. Singles US$27, doubles US$40, triples US$52, quads US$55. Some rooms have private baths (same price). Breakfast included.

Taipiyot, 61 Herzl St. (tel. 67 37 53), where Arlozorov branches off Herzl. Another no-frills hotel on this busy street. TV lounge with balcony. Reception open 24 hrs. Check-out 11am. No lockout, no curfew. Fans in all rooms; some have private bath for the same price. Singles US$26, doubles US$36. Breakfast included.

Ma’ayan haBira, 4 Nathanson St. (tel. 66 00 28). The “Beer Fountain” (as the name reads in Hebrew) serves its namesake by the tap (NIS6 for Y2-iitet), but this unpretentious lunch place’s claim to fame is their excellent home-smoked meats. Spare-ribs (NIS14), hot pastrami (N1S14). Open Sun.-Fri. 8:30am-5:30pm.

Downtown

Nimer, King of Shwarma 136 Yafo St. (tel. 53 87 27), 200m from the central bus station. Made fresh daily from veal and lamb. Probably the best shwarma in town (NIS5.5O). Try the hot, spicy pickles, served with a blistering yellow sauce called amba (which is also terrific and a little daring on shwarma). Cleaner than the stuff hawked on the street. Open Sun.-Thurs. noon-llpm, Fri. lOam-midniglit, Sat. 5pm-midnig

Food
There’s lots of it, tasty and cheap. In Hadar, both HaNevi’im and HaHalutz St. are lined with falafel and sandwich stands, some open on Saturday. On HaNevi’im St., vendors hawk steamy ears of com (tiros), and restaurants offer an eclectic mix of cuisines, including Moroccan, Italian, and Romanian. The main road of the Merkaz haCarmel district, HaNassi Boulevard, is dotted with cafes. Nearly ail establishments in the Carmel are open on Friday nights, but there is no public transportation.

Jacko, 12 HaDekalim St. (tel. 66 41 09), near Kikkar Paris Carmelit station. Owner is a former fisherman who still gets his fresh seafood daily. Excellent calamari, sea bass, and sesame seed shrimp; splurge (entrees NIS33).

Sinn-Sinn Chinese Restaurant, 28 Yafo Rd. (tel. 64 22 23). Like most Chinese restaurants in Israel, run by a Vietnamese family. Soup, eggroll, salad, main course, and rice NIS16.50. Open Mon.-Thurs. noon-lOpm, Fri. and Sun. noon-3:30pm.

Shmulik and Danny, 7 HaBankim St. (tel. 51 44 11), on the second floor. Compact dining hall serves some of the country’s best traditional Ashkenazi Jewish food, including gefilte fish, chopped liver, and tchulent. Appetizers NIS5, entrees NIS12-22, l^-litcr beer NIS6. Open Sun.-Thurs. noon-6pm, Fri. noon-3pm. Kosher.

Avraham, King of Falafel, 34 Allenby St. at HaTzionut St. Sign in Hebrew only, hut look for the yellow crowns and giant Pepsi cans flanking the entrance. The locals’ favorite falafel stand (NIS5). Across the street is their main competitor, Ya’akov, King of the King of Falafel. Ya’akov is obviously dreaming-crowds flock to Avraham, and Avraham alone. Open daily lOam-llpm.

Camping: Kibbutz Neveh Yam (tel. 84 48 27), 18km south of Haifa. Take bus #122 from central bus station (NIS5.50). Buses run from Haifa 5:5Oam-9:35pm. Last bus Fri. 4:25pm.) Just off the beach, near the ruins of the Crusader fortress of Atlit (now a military installation closed to tourists. Excellent amenities, including a small store and restaurant. Cooking facilities available. Camping with tent: NIS53 for 2 people, NIS66 for 3. Bungalows for 4 with toilet, shower, and refrigerator NIS139. Open in summer only.

Saint Charles Hospice, 105 Jaffa Rd. (tel. 55 37 05). Primarily a convent, but opens its doors to tourists. Comfortable rooms and a beautiful garden. Dorm beds (3-4 per room) US$15, singles US$18, doubles US$32. Breakfast included. Call ahead for reservations.

Nesher Hotel, 53 Herzl St. (tel. 62 06 44), near Bayim St. intersection, above Mercantile Discount Bank. Simple hotel with roof terrace and TV lounge. 24-hr. reception, no lockout, no curfew. Check-out noon. Kitchen facilities. Most rooms have A/C, others have fans. Singles US$27, doubles US$40, triples US$52, quads US$55. Some rooms have private baths (same price). Breakfast included.

Taipiyot, 61 Herzl St. (tel. 67 37 53), where Arlozorov branches off Herzl. Another no-frills hotel on this busy street. TV lounge with balcony. Reception open 24 hrs. Check-out 11am. No lockout, no curfew. Fans in all rooms; some have private bath for the same price. Singles US$26, doubles US$36. Breakfast included.

Carmel Youth Hostel (HI), 4km south of the city at Hof haCarmel (Carmel beach; tel. 53 19 44, fax 53 25 16). Inconvenient location served by infrequent public transportation. Bus #43 stops in front, but only runs every hr. (7:15an>7:15pm, last bus on Fri. at 3:15pm). Bus #50-alef goes past the hostel; ask the driver to stop. If you take bus #45 or 47, which run more frequently but drop you off at the main road far from the hostel, ask to be dropped off at the Sports and Recreation Center. Cross HaHagana St. toward the gas station on Flieman St. and turn left just past it.

Follow the road as it curves uphill and to the right. The road is unlit and can be dangerous at night. The hostel is large, near a free, uncrowded beach and has a splendid view. Lockout 10am-4:30pm. No curfew. Bungalows (4 beds; currently under repair, but should be open for summer 1994) N1S20. Dorm beds (6 per room) NIS39, nonmembers NIS42. Doubles NIS82, nonmembers N1S88. add NIS2 for bath. Includes breakfast. Lunch and dinner available through a deal with a pizzeria down the street (NIS19-21). Lockers NIS4 per day.

Elvis House, 6-8 Sara St., near the port. In light of serious readers’ complaints, Let’s Go does not recommend staying here.

Accommodations And Camping

Two words: slim pickings. Haifa is short on budget hotels, and its youth hostels and campsites, while close to the sea, are not easily accessible from the city. The Hadar district is your best bet if you want to stay in town, but it’s still not terribly cheap. Although cheaper accommodation may be found in the Port area, it is not advisable to stay in this part of town,

Pharmacies: Shomron, 44 Yafo St. (tel. 52 41 71), downtown. HaHalutz, 12 HaHalutz St. (tel. 66 29 62) in Hadar. Merkaz, 130 HaNassi Blvd. (tel. 38 19 79) in Carmel.
First Aid: 6 Yitzhak Sadeh St. (tel. 101).
Fire: Tel. 102
Police: 28 Yafo Rd. (tel. 100).

Crisis Lines: Rape Crisis Center (tel. 66 01 11), 24 hrs. Emotional First Aid: (tel, 67 22 22), 24 hrs.

Swimming Pools: Maccabee Pool, Bikurim St., in central Carmel (tei. 38 83 41). Outdoor in summer, heated and covered in winter. Admission NIS25. Open Sun.-Thurs. 6am-2pm and 4-10pm, Fri. 6am-6pm. Technion pool NIS9.

English Bookstores: Beverly’s Books, 18 Herzl St. (tel. 66 48 10), Vi block from HaNevi’im St. on the second floor. Buys and exchanges used books “if they’re good.” Open Sun.-Mon., Wed.-Thurs. 9am-lpm and 4-6pm, Tues. and Fri. 9am-lpm. Book Center, 31 HaHalutz St. Look for bookshelves in front. Studio 5, 5 Derekh haYana St., in Merkaz haCarmel district, sells (but doesn’t buy) used English language books. Open Sun.-Mon., Wed.-Thurs. 9am-lpm and 4-7pm, Tues. and Fri. 9am-lpm. Steimatzky, 2 in the central bus station. Also at 82 Ha’Atz-ma’ut St. (tel. 66 53 01) downtown, 16 Herzl St. (tel. 66 50 42) in Hadar, and 130 HaNassi Blvd. (tel. 38 87 65) in Carmel Center.

Ticket Offices: Haifa, 11 Baerwald St. (tel. 66 22 44); Garber, 129 HaNassi Blvd. (tel. 38 47 77); and Nova, 15 Nordau St. (tel. 66 52 72).

Rental Cars: Avis, 7 Sderot Ben-Gurion (tel. 51 30 50); Budget, 186 Yafo Rd. (tel.52 06 66); Eldan, 95 HaNassi Blvd. (tel. 37 53 03); Hertz, 90 Ha’Atzma’ut St. (tel.53 12 34). Reliable, 118 Ha’Atzma’ut St. (tel. 51 65 04). Same exorbitant rates as in the rest of the country.

Sherut Taxis: Aviv (tel. 66 63 33) to Jerusalem (leaves at noon; reservations required), Tel Aviv (every hr.), and Tiberias from 5 Yona St. in Hadar behind the Mashbir dept. store. Aryeh (tel. 66 44 44 or 67 36 66) to Tel Aviv from 9 Baerwald St. in Hadar. Amal (tel. 52 28 28) to Tel Aviv from *6 HaHalutz in Hadar.

Ferries: Terminal at the port, next to the train station. Departures for Cyprus, Crete, and mainland Greece, Sun. and Thurs. 8pm (be there 3-5pm for security check), Fri. 7pm for Cyprus (be there 11am for security check). Buy tickets at Caspi Travel, 76 Ha’Atzma’ut St. (tel. 61 44 44), Multkour, 55 HaNamal St. (tel. 66 35 70), and Mano, 39 HaMeginim St. (tel. 52 26 24).

Carmelit (subway): from Kikkar Paris near the port up to Gan ha’Em in Carmel Center in just 6min. Stops at Solel Boneh, HaNevi’im, Masada, and Golomb. Ticket machines in Hebrew and English. Yellow pavilion entrances. Runs Sun.-Thurs. 6:30am-midnight, Fri. 6:30am-3pm, Sat. from 15min. after sundown. NIS2.40.

Central Bus Station, Yafo St. (information 54 95 55), at beginning of main road to Tel Aviv. Baggage check on lower level behind Bank HaPoalim, open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-12:45pm and l:15-4:3Opm, Fri. 8am-noon. NIS5 per item. Lost and Found operates from here as well. Routes: Buses heading south leave from here; buses to the north and southeast usually stop in Hadar as well.

Last trip on Fri. 3-5pm. To: Akko and Nahariya, #251 and 271 (via Hadar, Daniel St. off HaNevi’im St. Every 15-20min, 5:10am-l 1:30pm, Sat. every 10-25min. 9am-midnight); Tel Aviv central station, #900 and 901 (every 15-2Omin. 5:30am-ll:50pm, Sat. 8:20-llpm; NIS12.5O, students NIS11); Tel Aviv Arlozorov terminal (#980, roughly every 20min. 6am-8:3Opm, NIS9); Jerusalem, #940 (every 30-50min. 6:30am-7:45pm, Sat. after 8:20pm; NIS20, students NIS1H); also to Tzfat, Nazareth, and Eilat.

Train Station: Bat Galim (tel. 542 1414 or 56 45 64), adjacent and connected by tunnels to central bus station at the end of the platform. Trains to Natanya, Akko, Nahariya, and Jerusalem. 20% discount for students with ISIC. GTIO has schedules.

International Telephones: At HaPalyam, HaNevi’im, Shikmona, Yafo, Sha’ar Palmer, and Wedgewood post office branches, or get a phone card at any post office and call direct from pay phones. Telephone code: 04.

Post Office: At Shabtai Levi and HaNevi’im St. (tel. 64 09 17), in Hadar. Take bus #41 from station. Also at central bus station, 152 Yafo St., Sha’ar Palmer St.; at 19 HaPalyam Blvd., in port area; at 63 Herzl St., Hadar; and at 7 Wedgewood Blvd. in Carmel. Poste Restante services at HaPalyam branch only. HaPalyam office open Sun.-Thurs. 7am-4pm, Fri. 7am-2pm. Hadar office open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-7pm, Fri. 8am-lpm; winter Sun.-Thurs. 8am-8pm, Fri. 8am-2pm.

American Express: Meditrad Ltd., 2 Khayat Sq., P.O. Box 1266 (tel. 64 22 66 or 64 58 35). Entrance in alleyway next to Steimatzky off Ha’Atzma’ut St., opposite Sha’ar Palmer St. Client Letter Service available. Sells Travelers Cheques but won’t cash them. For lost Cheques, call toll free 177 440 8694. Open Sun.-Thurs. 8:30am-4pm, Fri. 8:30am-lpm.

Currency Exchange: Barclays Discount, 65 Ha’Atzma’ut St. (tel. 52 22 91); HaPoalim, 5 HaPalyam Blvd. (tel. 68 15 74); Israel Discount, 47 Ha’Atzma’ut St. (tel. 54 61 11); Leumi, in the new HaMeginim Tower at 21 Yafo St. (tel. 54 71 11). Branches located throughout city. General hours Sun.-Thurs. 8:30am-12:30pm and 4-6pm, Fri. S:30am-noon. All banks closed on Mon. and Wed. afternoons. A Bank HaPoalim is open in the central bus station and in the Passenger Hall for ships. Be wary of random people offering to exchange money.

U.S. Consulate: 12 Yerushalayim St. (tel. 67 06 15), in Hadar. Passport, notarial, educational, and commercial services. Call Sun.-Thurs. 9am-5pm (consular services by appointment only).

Budget Travel (ISSTA): 2 Balfour St. (tel. 66 91 39 or 67 02 22). Cheap fares and tours. Open Sun.-Thurs. 8:30am-lpm and 4-7pm, Fri. 8:30am-lpm. Another location at Technion (tel. 32 67 39, fax 32 67 41), in the Student Building. Open Sun.-Thurs. 9am-3pm, Fri. (summer only) 9-1 lam.

Tours: Society for the Protection of Nature in Israel (SPNI): 8 Menahcm St. (tel. 66 41 35/6 or 67 58 04), near Nordau St. Informed staff eager to advise rookie travelers. This is the place to ask about hiking trips into the Carmel Mountains. Open Sun. and Thurs. 9am-5:3Opm, Mon.-Wed. 9am-3:45pm, Fri. 9am-12:30pm.

Municipal Tourist Information Office (MTIO): Egged Central Bus Station (tel. 51 22 08), conveniently located on lowest level of station. Maps, schedules, and lists of clubs, pubs, and museums; check our list of accommodations before theirs. Open Sun.-Thurs. 9:30am-5pm, Fri. 9:30am-2pm. Other offices at City Hall (tel. 35 62 00) in Hadar, 14 Hassan Shuki St. (open Sun.-Fri. 8am-lpm), and at 106 HaNassi Blvd. (tel. 37 40 10) in Carmel (open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-7pm, Fri. 8am-lpm; winter Sun.-Thurs. 8am-6pm, Fri. 8am-lpm).

Practical Information

Government Tourist Information Office (GTIO): 18 Herd St. (tel. 66 65 21/2 or 64 36 16) in Hadar. Take bus #10 or 12 from the port area or #21 or 28 from the central bus station. Useful maps, train schedules, and information on current events. Open Sun.-Thurs. 8:3Oam-5pm, Fri 8:30am-2pm. Second office in Passenger Hall of the Port; open when ships arrive (Sun. and Thurs. 6:30-9:30am).

Orientation

Haifa, Israel’s principal port and the departure and destination point of all passenger ferries, is situated on the Mediterranean coast about 100km south of the Lebanese border and due west of the Sea of Galilee. Don’t be fooled by flat maps: there is a 300m elevation drop between the Carmel Center and the port, most successfully negotiated by the Carmelit, Haifa’s one-line subway. The bustling downtown around the port has small stores and outdoor stands. To the west of the port on the same level is the central bus station, and behind it, connected by a tunnel, the train station.

Higher up the mountain is the Hadar district, home to many businesses, cafes, bakeries, and moderately priced hotels; once the city’s showcase, it has declined in recent years in favor of shopping malls and the more elegant Carmel Center, on top of the mountain, characterized by posh homes, five-star hotels, observation points, restaurants, and discos. Outside this main axis, served by the Carmelit, Haifa is a vast sprawl of residential areas crisscrossed by dramatic valleys. The Haifa central bus station can be confusing. like the city, the station has three tiers. Arriving out-of-town buses generally drop off passengers on the third level. Local buses depart from the side facing the mountain, with Egged Information located in the center. Out-of-town buses depart from the lowest level, where the restrooms, luggage storage, and municipal information booth are located.

Haifa

A prosperous city built on the forested Mt. Carmel, sliding steeply into the sea, Haifa boasts the country’s biggest port, ever-expanding urban conveniences, two universities, and dramatic vistas that will make squinting eyes open wide. Despite these features, Haifa has often been overshadowed by Israel’s other two big cities. Lacking Jerusalem’s allure and political importance and Tel Aviv’s vivacity, Israel’s capital of the north has all but given up vying for equal status. Haifa has little to offer to the casual tourist: accommodations are sparse, the seafront distant, the museums less than spectacular. The real gems of what is probably Israel’s most beautiful and pleasant city-elegant, thickly forested neighborhoods, striking views, great beaches- remain accessible to its own dwellers, and highly elusive to anyone else.

Haifa has had a tradition of harboring political and religious minorities since the Hebrew prophet Elijah first fled there from the wrath of King Ahab. Crusaders built the first of several monasteries above Elijah’s cave; these temporarily housed many sects before finally giving shelter to the wandering Carmelite Order. Among the other religious minorities who have found refuge in Haifa are German Templars, who founded a colony here, and Baha’is, for whom Haifa is the world center.

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