Mafraq & Umm al-Jimal

The swirling sand storms that disturb the tranquil desert form light brown pillars - that reach up to the sky. These shifting columns provide the sole entertainment on , the long, straight road to Mafraq. Unlike most other cities in Jordan, Mafraq (junction in Arabic) is well east of the western mountain range, tucked away in the middle of vast expanses of dry, dusty, unscenic desert. As its Arabic name suggests, the town is an important transportation link between Syria, Iraq, and Saudi Arabia.

This arid capital of Jordan’s largest county is worth a visit because of its proximity to a remarkiible Decapolis city, Umm al-Jimal, a mass of black ruins on the edge of a basalt desert. Known as the ■’Black Oasis", the eerie monuments of ancient civilizations may look like a mass of rubble and walls that might collapse any minute; they stand for what were once basalt houses, churches, barracks, and a fort complex, dating from the Nabatean, Roman, Byzantine, and Umayyad periods. The town was finally destroyed in a 747 AD earthquake and never rebuilt. Umm al-Jimal is not developed for tourism, and while you can appreciate on your own the striking visual difference between this place and other Decapolis cities such as Jerash or Pella, you will need professional guidance for any further nibble probing.
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Near Irbid: Umm Qeis & Al-Hamma

Umm Qeis was the biblical Cadara, where Jesus exorcised a sinner’s demons into a herd of pigs which stampeded down the hill to drown in the Sea of Galilee. This thriving Decapolis city, once a resort for Romans vacationing at Al-Hamma’s therapeutic hot springs, was renowned for its theaters, writers, philosophers, and, among low-brows, for its orgiastic extravagances. The city was probably founded sometime in the 4th century BC and was later ceded by Caesar Augustus to Herod the Great, but it perished in the Jewish Rebellion of 66-70 AD.

Today, much of the Roman amphitheater survives; covered passageways stand in the back, and the six-foot, headless marble goddess that once sat at the front of the stage has moved inside. Nearby, squat, square pillars litter the ruins of the bathhouse; at one time they bolstered the bath floors to allow steam to circulate underneath. In front of the theater stand the columns of a Byzantine Church. A gatekeeper will show you around and explain the sights—a tip will be expected. (Open daily. Knock at the church door.)

Accommodations and Food

Irbid has several hotels and restaurants to suit the budget traveler. The Al-Amin al-Kabir Hotel (tel. 24 23 84) on Midan Malik Abdallah St., one block down from the city center and the Ministry of Antiquities building, has pleasant, breezy rooms and exceptionally courteous management. (Singles JD4. Doubles JD5.500. Bathroom 500fils.) Around the comer on Jamil St. in the same building as the Bank of Jordan is the more communal Abu Bakr Hotel (tel. 24 26 95), where snoozing is the main event. (Singles JD5. Doubles JD6.) The Al-Nasseem Hotel (tel. 27 43 10) on Idoun St., the south side of the Yarmouk cam desperately needs new carpeting but the somewhat unkempt rooms are comfortable.

With the main entrance to Yarmouk University on your left, walk uphill and take the first left. The Al-Nasseem will be on your right before you reach An-Nas-seem Circle. (Singles JD10. Doubles JD14. Cheaper for more than one night.) The three-star Al-Razi Hotel (tel. 27 55 15, fax 27 55 17), across the street from University Mosque, is a bit expensive but its restaurant serves delicious Arabic-style pizzas for less thanJDl. (Singles JD25. Doubles JD33.) The newly renovated Cafe Amon Italian Restaurant, downhill from the Al-Razi Hotel and right on the circle, serves a variety of entrees, mostly under JD2. (Open daily 8am-l lpm.) Downtown, Al-Kat-koot serves supreme Jordanian dishes, or visit the Hungry Bunny to get that wab-bit. The area by Al-Yarmouk University has a more colorful selection of food stands.

Irbid

Much like Amman, Irbid (lhr. north of Jerash) is an industrial center which has overwhelmed the site of its ancient Decapolis city (Arbila). But while expansion in Amman has nonetheless left some areas uninhabited, Irbid’s narrow streets remain stuffed with merchants, kung fu theaters, and restless taxis. Besides the tiny Natural History Museum (open Wed-Mon. 8am-5pm) on the sedate campus of Yarmouk University, there is little to do here but plan your junket to Umm Qeis or Al-Hamma.

Practical Information Irbid’s post office (open Sat.-Thurs. 7:30am-7pm; Fri. and holidays 8am-l :30pm) and telephone office with international phone and telex services (open Sat.-Thurs. 7:30am-10pm; hrs. vary Fri. and holidays) are located just off the central square. AN2 Grindlay’s Bank in Central Square, across from the post office, exchanges cash and traveler’s checks (open Sat.-Thurs. 8am-12:30pm). The telephone code is 02.
Many have an easy time hitching to Irbid via Jerash, but the quickest way to the city from Amman is by the Arabella or Hijazi bus companies (570fils, with A/C 810fils). Minibuses from Amman, Jerash, and Ajlun take somewhat longer and drop you off at Irbid’s South Station, at which point you can take a service taxi to downtown (55fils) and then from downtown to North Station (55fils). You can also catch a taxi to Yarmouk (700fils, JD 1 at night). The last buses depart for Amman at about 8pm, sometimes as early as 5pm in the winter.

Ajlun

Atop the highest peak overlooking Ajlun is Qal’at ar-Rabadh, a huge Arab castle built between 1184 and 1185 by Azz ad-Din Ausama, a commander under Salah ad-Din. Crusader knights spent decades unsuccessfully trying to capture the castle and nearby village. The name Kafranjah, a town in the area famous for its olive trees, suggests that the crusading Franks (Franjts in Arabic) did some time here—if only as prisoners. The Crusader threat quelled, Mamluks began using the castle to transmit messages by beacon and pigeon; from Baghdad to Cairo, day or night, the relay could be made in 12 hours. (Castle open daily 6:3Oam-6 or 7pm. Free.)

Practical Information Ajlun lies a hilly 24km west of Jerash, an easy hitch or bus ride from that town, from Amman (73km), or from Irbid (88km). Service from Amman takes 75 minutes (690flls); bus is slower but cheaper (5OOfils). From Ajlun’s main traffic circle, which revolves around a sickly henna tree gasping from the fumes, it’s 4km of gently sloping road to the summit. You can catch a taxi at the traffic circle for JD1 round-trip. Ajlun’s post office is located on Amman St., on your right as you enter the town (open Sat.-Thurs. 7:30am-7pm, Fri. and holidays 8am-1:30pm). Exchange money at either the Housing Bank, next door to the post office, or the Bank of Jordan, on Irbid St. uphill from the circle (regular banking hrs. Sat.-Thurs. 8am-12:30pm).
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Near jerash: Dibbin National Park

The Aleppo pines and oaks of the fertile woodland are a remarkable sight in this desert country. Located in the hills 10km southwest of Jerash and 65km north of Amman, Dibbin National Park encompasses some 20km of forest stretching south from the town of the same name.

On the old road to Jerash near Dibbin village is the Dibbin Rest House (tel. (04) 45 24 13, fax 81 32 46, Amman). It offers shaded bungalows with private bathrooms, telephones, fridges, and TVs. (Singles JD13.200. Doubles JD15.400. Extra beds JD5.) The access road leaves the Amman-Jerash Highway about 2km south of Jerash; look for the signs. You’ll have to take a car as neither buses nor service access the park. Another option is the bus from Jerash to the nearby village of Dibbin; the hike from the village to the park is about 2km uphill. The Rest House fills up during holidays, so it’s best to call ahead and make reservations. For nature-lovers, the park offers ideal campgrounds, free of charge and free of facilities.

Sights and Entertainment

Jerash’s dusty claim to fame is its extensive ruins, even though the best parts are probably lying beneath your feet (more than 90% of ancient Jerash is still unexcavated and awaits research). Enter the site by the visitors center or the north gate. The ruins are open daily 7:30am-7:30pm; admission is JD2, free during the festival (see below). We’ll walk you through the ruins from south to north.

The Triumphal (or Hadrianic) Arch, 400m south of the ancient walls, honors the arrival of Emperor Hadrian in the winter of 129 AD. Walking from that monument to the main entrance you’ll pass the extensive remains of the Hippodrome, including stables and spectator seats. From the entrance, the Forum of Ionic Columns opens up into a main street intersected by two perpendicular avenues.

A footpath leads from the forum up to the astounding South Theater. Greek doodles reveal that 4000 of Jerash’s wealthiest citizens could reserve seats here. The two-story backstage, still furnished with curtains and marble statues, once dominated the setting. The ruined Temple of Zeus lies behind the theater’s seats. The Street of Columns runs the distance between the forum and the North Gate.

Accommodations and Food Because Jerash is such an easy daytrip from Amman, there are no accommodations in the town. You might also consider either camping at Dibbin National Park, about 8km away, or taking a room at the Dibbin Rest House. The Jerash Rest House (tel. 45 11 46), to the left as you enter the site from the visitors center, overlooks the ruins and serves traditional Jordanian food as well as burgers. (Kabab JD1.800, hummus 300fiIs, soft drinks 300fils, and excellent banana splits 65Ofils. Open daily 8am-9pm.) At the At Khayyam Restaurant, just past the visitors center on the main road, JD2.5OO buys bread, salad, and grilled meat (open daily 1 lam-lOpm or 1 lpm). Street stands surrounding the bus station in town sell cheap falafel andfuul

Ajlun

Atop the highest peak overlooking Ajlun is Qal’at ar-Rabadh, a huge Arab castle built between 1184 and 1185 by Azz ad-Din Ausama, a commander under Salah ad-Din. Crusader knights spent decades unsuccessfully trying to capture the castle and nearby village. The name Kafranjah, a town in the area famous for its olive trees, suggests that the crusading Franks (Franjis in Arabic) did some time here—if only as Practical Information Jerash is minuscule—barely lkm long from the South Gate down the Street of Columns to the North Gate. The tiny Chrysoras River (Golden River) separates the ancient ruins on the western bank from the new town on the east. The Visitors Information Center (open daily 7:30am-7pm) is on the left of the main road entering the city from the south, about 400m north of the Triumphal Arch, Groups can hire guides for JD4. Booklets which include maps and explanations of the sights allow more leisurely exploration and range in price from JD1 toJD6. The visitors center also has a small post office (open daily 8am-2pm).

Buses and service leave from Jerash’s bus station on the western edge of the new city. Buses to Amman’s Abdali Station cost 37Ofils (slightly more with A/C), to Ajlun 25Ofils, and to Irbid 32Ofils; service cost about 50% more. With the Jerash-Amman highway under construction, the ride to Amman will take you through Zarqa and run about one-and-a-half hours. Public transportation shuts down at about 7pm. Hitchers to Amman, Dibbin, or Ajlun are known to walk south about lkm from the visitors center to the intersection with Highway 20. Turning right (west) leads to Ajlun and the Dibbin National Park. Going straight takes you to Amman; buses pass frequently and are easy to flag. The main road through Jerash continues north to Irbid. Hitchers go to the northern edge of town, just before the branch of road that splits off to the left.

Near Jerash: Dibbin National Park

The Aleppo pines and oaks of the fertile woodland are a remarkable sight in this desert country. Located in the hills 10km southwest of Jerash and 65km north of Amman, Dibbin National Park encompasses some 20km of forest stretching south from the town of the same name.

On the old road to Jerash near Dibbin village is the Dibbin Rest House (tel. (04) 45 24 13, fax 81 32 46y Amman). It offers shaded bungalows with private bathrooms, telephones, fridges, and TVs. (Singles JD13.200. Doubles JD15.400. Extra beds JD5.) The access road leaves the Amman-Jerash Highway about 2km south of Jerash; look for the signs. You’ll have to take a car as neither buses nor service access the park. Another option is the bus from Jerash to the nearby village of Dibbin; the hike from the village to the park is about 2km uphill. The Rest House fills up during holidays, so it’s best to call ahead and make reservations. For nature-lovers, the park offers ideal campgrounds, free of charge and free of facilities.

Sights and Entertainment

Jerash’s dusty claim to fame is its extensive ruins, even though the best parts are probably lying beneath your feet (more than 90% of ancient Jerash is still unexcavated and awaits research). Enter the site by the visitors center or the north gate. The ruins are open daily 7:30am-7:3Opm; admission is JD2, free during the festival (see below). We’ll walk you through the ruins from south to north.

The Triumphal (or Hadrianic) Arch, 400m south of the ancient walls, honors the arrival of Emperor Hadrian in the winter of 129 AD. Walking from that monument to the main entrance you’ll pass the extensive remains of the Hippodrome, including stables and spectator seats. From the entrance, the Forum of Ionic Columns opens up into a main street intersected by two perpendicular avenues.

A footpath leads from the forum up to the astounding South Theater. Greek doodles reveal that 4000 of Jerash’s wealthiest citizens could reserve seats here. The two-story backstage, still furnished with curtains and marble statues, once dominated the setting. The ruined Temple of Zeus lies behind the theater’s seats. The Street of Columns runs the distance between the forum and the North Gate.

Accommodations and Food Because Jerash is such an easy daytrip from Amman, there are no accommodations in the town. You might also consider either camping at Dibbin National Park, about 8km away, or taking a room at the Dibbin Rest House.

The Jerash Rest House (tel. 45 11 46), to the left as you enter the site from the visitors center, overlooks the ruins and serves traditional Jordanian food as well as burgers. (Kabab JD1.800, hummus 300fiIs, soft drinks 300fiJs, and excellent banana splits 65Ofils. Open daily 8am-9pm.) At the Al Khayyam Restaurant, just past the visitors center on the main road, JD2.500 buys bread, salad, and grilled meat (open daily 1 lam-lOpm or 11 pm). Street stands surrounding the bus station in town sell cheap falafel sndfuul.

Practical Information

Jerash is minuscule—barely lkm long from the South Gate down the Street of Columns to the North Gate. The tiny Chrysoras River (Golden River) separates the ancient ruins on the western bank from the new town on the east. The Visitors Information Center (open daily 7:3Oam-7pm) is on the left of the main road entering the city from the south, about 400m north of the Triumphal Arch. Groups can hire guides for JD4. Booklets which include maps and explanations of the sights allow more leisurely exploration and range in price from JD1 toJD6. The visitors center also has a small post office (open daily 8am-2pm).

Buses and service leave from Jerash’s bus station on the western edge of the new city. Buses to Amman’s Abdali Station cost 370fils (slightly more with A/Q, to Ajlun 25Ofils, and to Irbid 320fils; service cost about 50% more. With the Jerash-Amman highway under construction, the ride to Amman will take you through Zarqa and run about one-and-a-half hours. Public transportation shuts down at about 7pm. Hitchers to Amman, Dibbin, or Ajlun are known to walk south about lkm from the visitors center to the intersection with Highway 20. Turning right (west) leads to Ajlun and the Dibbin National Park. Going straight takes you to Amman; buses pass frequently and are easy to flag. The main road through Jerash continues north to Irbid. Hitchers go to the nordiern edge of town, just before the branch of road that splits off to the left.

Northern Towns - Jerash

Dubbed Gerasa in ancient times, Jerash is one of the most extensive extant provincial Roman cities. Gerasa, along with Pella, was a member of the Decapolis, a commercial league of ten cities in Rome’s Asian Province (the Antiquities’ answer to the European Economic Community). Because of its isolation in a remote valley among the mountains of Gilead, Jerash survived long after the other nine cities were destroyed.

Unlike the other great cities of the classical period in this area, Jerash is typically Roman in design. The city trampled over earlier settlements, so little evidence of pre-Roman days remains. Inscriptions calling the town Antioch reveal that the Seleu-cid king of that name had a prominent outpost here, but Jerash entered its golden age only after its conquest by the Roman Emperor Pompey in 63 BC. For the next three centuries, Jerash prospered: granite was brought from as far away as Aswan and old temples were razed and rebuilt according to the latest architectural fads. The Emperor Trajan annexed the Nabatean lands in 106 AD and built a highway from Damascus to Aqaba that passed through Jerash. Hadrian visited the town in 129; the Triumphal Arch built for the occasion still stands. The town was converted to Christianity and had a bishop by the mid-4th century.
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Deir Alia and Pella (Tabaqat Fahl)

Deir Alia (the High Temple; all temples here were built at the top of the hill), 50km north of the Dead Sea, is the spot where Jacob supposedly snoozed after wrestling with the angel. On and around the sandy tel overlooking the modern town, archeol-ogists have collected Bronze Age, Iron Age, Roman, and Islamic artifacts documenting over 20 centuries of history. Two temples dating back as far as 1300 BC have been excavated. To the casual observer, however, the tel tells no tales; baked mud walls of ancient temples and shrines blend into the top of the tanned mound, only vaguely suggesting the former structures.

For elucidation, consult the exhibit at the dig headquarters, stationed on the left at the end of the dirt road as you pass by the foot of the tel. A map, an explanation of the excavation, and an extensive array of its spoils are on display here,The best way to reach Deir Alia is to take a minibus from South Shuna (see above). Service (590fils) and buses (37Ofils) also run sporadically from Amman’s Abdali Station to Deir Alia village next to the site. Some foolish travelers try to hitch to Deir Alia from Salt; this is a risky trek, as few cars pass. The route from Salt passes through Zei National Park, about 5km beyond Salt, where lovely pine forests and free camping grounds await.

Dead Sea

Ideologically, very dead; tourism-wise, pretty lively. The only stretch of sand that is open to visitors in the Jordanian side stretches along the Dead Sea’s northeastern shore, 90 minutes from Amman or Deir Alia. During the middle of the day the sun reflects off the sea’s still surface, creating the illusion that the entire body of water is about to spill into the Jordan Valley. The peculiar buoyancy of this briny water, which forces even the densest swimmer into a back float, attracts many Jordanians; there is almost never room for hitchhikers in the cars heading south from the King Hussein/Allenby Bridge or South Shuna. The salt water causes even a paper cut to feel like an amputation without anaesthetic, so pay attention when you shave, or wait until after. See under Israel for more geographical information on the Dead Sea.

The only overnight accommodations available along the Dead Sea are at the very expensive Dead Sea Spa Hotel, a couple of km past the Dead Sea Rest House (tel, (05) 57 29 01). The Rest House offers showers (250ftls) to relieve you of Lot’s wife’s encrusted fate. Unless you swim around the barrier on the north, which closes off the nicest section of beach, you’ll have to pay 500fils to enter the resort enclave.

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Jordan Valley & Dead Sea - Getting Around

The greatest obstacle in reaching Deir Alia, Pella, and the Dead Sea is getting to the highway that follows the contours of the Jordan River along the length of the valley. Once there, hop on one of the many buses or service shuttling up and down the road. Perhaps the simplest method is first to take a bus (400fils) or service (460ftls) west from Amman to South Shuna (Shuneh Nimrin). a busy village on the Jordan Valley Highway.

A bus also runs to South Shuna from the Ras al-Ain area in southern Amman, near the intersection of Ali Bin Abi Taleb and Jerusalem St. near Jabal Nadhif. From South Shuna, buses (85fils) and service (I45ffls) travel north to Deir Alia via Karemah or south to Suweimah and the Dead Sea Rest House. Another method would be to take a bus directly from Amman to either Deir Alia (37Ofils) or the Dead Sea (54OfiJs). The Dead Sea bus stops in Ar-Rameh, where you can catch another bus to South Shuna. Don a fedora and bring plenty of water, and don’t forget your passport—you’ll need it at several military roadblocks along the way.

Qasr Mushatta

Continuing west you’ll move through more expanses of desert, dotted with Bedouin tents. To reach the castle take the highway or any turn-off to Queen Alia International Airport. Hitchhikers often hire a service taxi from the village of Muwaqaar in the north to reach the castle. The castle is on the left as you approach the airport from the north, but the public access road turns off to the right and loops about 4km around the airport. If you’re walking from the airport, don’t take this marked turn-off. Instead, continue to the left of the airport, past the Alia cargo terminal, until Mushatta appears on the left (a Yz-hr. walk).

Soldiers and guards at checkpoints will ask to see your passport. The facade of the 8th-century castle beckons at the entrance with wonderfully carved flora! designs. Most of the carved stones, however, were delivered to Kaiser Wilhelm as a gift from Ottoman Sultan Abd al-Hamid II, and only fragments remain at this site. From Qasr Mushatta and the airport you can catch a taxi or bus to Amman; hitchers find it an easy trip back into town

Qasr Harraneh

This castle, named for the small black stones that blanket the area, remains an enigma. Some experts believe that it was a defensive fort, while others argue that it was a caravansary for passing camel trains. Others believe it was a khan, or inn-one of the first in the Islamic world. The latest interpretation holds that it served as a retreat where Umayyad leaders discussed matters of state.

A painted dedication in a second-story room of the well-preserved castle dates its construction to 92 years after the Prophet’s flight from Mecca to Medina (711 AD). The “defensive” theory of Harraneh is supported by the four corner towers and the solid, square plan of a Roman fortress, but the lack of narrowly slit windows from which guards could fire arrows upon attackers casts doubt. The Greek inscription in the doorjambs implies that the Umayyads built upon an earlier structure.

Qasr Amra

Despite the ill-fitting glass windows, the hunting lodge and bath complex of Qasr Amra impresses onlookers with the elegant simplicity of its design. The interior is also the best preserved of the desert palaces; its vaulted ceilings are splashed with colorful frescos, and mosaics grace some of the floors. Restoration of these ancient works is underway, so don’t be surprised by scaffolding.

As centuries of Bedouin campfire soot are removed, a fascinating portrait of Umayyad refinement is slowly reappearing. An early portrayal of the zodiac covers die domed ceiling of the caldar-iutn (hot room). The frescoes are all the more riveting since they date from the earliest days of Muslim culture, when human and animal depictions were permissible. You can reach Qasr Amra on the road heading southwest of Azraq Junction, about 28km from Qasr Azraq.

Azraq

On the long and grinding road east of Hallabat you’ll hear nothing but the entreaties of your overheating engine. After kilometers of drab desert, you’ll suddenly come upon the 12 square km of lush parklands, pools, and gardens of the Azraq oasis. These wetlands are Jordan’s only permanent body of fresh water. Relax and reassemble your bearings (both mental and mechanical) at Azraq Junction, where the highway to the northeast heads off fear Iraq and the southeastern road leads to the southern castles and on into Saudi Arabia.

About 13km north of Azraq junction on the highway to Iraq squats Qasr Azraq. Most of the castle is in excellent condition thanks to extensive restoration. The Druze gatekeeper will muscle open the three-ton portal of the castle and show you his Lawrence of Arabia photograph collection if you inquire with sugar on top. (Many of the photographs look suspiciously like the gate-keeper himself.)

Qasr al-Hallabat

Approximately 30km east into the desert from Zarqa, Qasr al-Hallabat enters into view. Angle off at the right turn onto the paved road and turn left up the track to the gate. The Bedouin gatekeeper’s tent sits to the left of the crumbling castle; you’re free to roam around whatever is left of the castle. Keep in mind that any gatekeeper who provides you with information will expect a dinar tip in return.

Back on the main highway, note the difference between the sand and limestone desert to the south and the grey volcanic desert to the north. Just off the road to the south is the Hammam Sarah, the ruined bathhouse modeled after Amra (below). The thousands of stones thrown into the well over the last 1000 years haven’t noticeably affected its depth.

Sights

The following description of the castles and Azraq details a road trip that takes the northern route from Amman to Azraq and the southern highway on the return trip. This clockwise tour serves hitchhikers better because there is more traffic; if you have a car, you could as easily go in the counterclockwise direction. The road from Amman to Zarqa passes through Jordan’s most notorious speed trap, where gimlet-eyed cops dispense fines at a honking JD50.

Practical Information

A trip to Azraq oasis and the Desert Castles is a journey fraught with uncertainty, to say nothing of a pain in the ass. A taxi will take you from Zarqa to Qasr Azraq (500fiIs), but it’s up to you to find transportation to die other castles. Excluding Qasr at-Touba, which lies far to the south and is accessible only by four-wheel drive vehicles, the castles lie on a paved highway loop, with the western end at Amman and the eastern end at Azraq. It is possible to reach some of the castles by hitchhiking, but renting a car in Amman with a group is infinitely wiser. Jordan’s modern highway system enables you to visit all of the castles in one day. JETT buses provide full day tours of the desert castles, but only for groups, and such trips have to be arranged through a travel agent, rendering this option too costly for the budget traveler.

Hitchhikers, before undertaking this risk}’ and potentially dangerous fool’s errand, will need an immense supply of food and water, a taste for adventure, and careful planning. There is some traffic on the Damascus highway from Amman to Zarqa (30km), but there are also other hitchhikers, mostly soldiers and Arab workers. Alternatively, service from Abdali Station in Amman can take you there quickly and cheaply (30Ofils). Be careful about accepting rides from military vehicles since most will take you only as far as some desolate desert depot. The highway to Azraq passes right by Qasr al-Hallabat (30km from Zarqa) before reaching Azraq (87km from Zarqa). From Azraq junction you’ll have to hitch 13km north to reach Qasr Azraq and then return to Azraq. If you take the southern highway back to Amman you wili pass near Qasr Amra (25km from Azraq), then Qasr Harraneh (40km from Azraq) and Qasr Mushatta (about 90km from Azraq and 40km from Amman).

Near Amman: Azraq and the Desert Castles

Adjacent to sultry desert lava fields, Azraq’s dusty green foliage comes as a welcome respite. As T.E. Lawrence (of Arabia) rather obscurely noted, “Numen in est” ("Where’s the latrine?"). The springs at Azraq are the only permanent bodies of water in an expanse of over 2500 square km of barren sand-and-scorpion desert. Thus, the oasis serves as a resting stop for truck drivers from three continents and hundreds of species of’exotic birds moiting their way through Jordan’s desert.

The discovery of an enormous cache of flint hand-axes indicates that either paleolithic settlers or extremely sophisticated camels hunted in the area 500,000 years ago. The most remarkable records of human habitation are the scattered Umayyad castles, a group of structures that originally formed a chain from the north of Damascus to Khirbet al-Mafjar near Jericho. Built in the 7th and 8th centuries by the Umayyads, the castles were mysteriously abandoned a century later. The imposing stonework of Qasr Harraneh and strategic location of Qasr Azraq and Qasr Mus-hatta support speculation that the castles sheltered caravans along the trade route between Syria, Arabia, and the Far East. The baths near Qasr al-Hallabat and the magnificent frescos at Qasr Amra brought creature comforts to the desert.

Salt

During Turkish rule, Salt (pronounced “suit") was the chief administrative center for the surrounding area, and in the 1920s it seemed a likely choice for the capital of the newly independent state of Jordan. But the city was bypassed in favor of the smaller but more centrally located village of Amman. While development obliterated Amman’s rural charm, Salt has retained much of its original flavor. The focal point of Salt is the mosque on Jabal Yushah, which, according to Muslim legend, covers the site of the tomb of the prophet Hosea (Yushah).

A survey of the crowded Ottoman houses and buildings clinging to the steep slopes can be the most rewarding part of a visit to this sleepy town. Venture up into the hills via one of the narrow stairways in the downtown area. Many of the yellow stone buildings date from the late 19th century. The Ottoman barracks, still intact, were built over a 13th-century fortress that was destroyed to prevent its capture at Crusader hands. Salt is also known for its large Christian community: church towers pepper the hillsides. If the adventurous spirit moves you, wander downhill from the bus station into Wadi Sh’eib. Unexplored caves and abandoned stone houses dot the area, and numerous dirt paths lead you further down. Here, pink flowers and fruit trees line the narrow stream that winds through the bottom of the valley. Leave a trail of bread crumbs, or you might not find your way back.
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Near Amman - Wadi Seer

Burgeoning Amman has poked its urban tentacles westward to Wadi Seer, yet this small town stubbornly maintains a rural personality. Wadi Seer, like much of the fertile hill country to the north and west of Amman, was settled by Circassians. These fair-skinned Muslims came from Russia during the Czarist persecutions of the 1870s and account for most blonde and red-headed Jordanians. Amman’s Folklore Museum displays the traditional Circassian costume—a cylindrical fur cap, and black waistcoat with red trim.

At Wadi Seer, the high desert plateau suddenly gives way to the Jordan Valley. The town’s namesake, a muddy little stream, snakes through the countryside on its way to the Dead Sea. The narrow asphalt road that follows this valley out of town seems designed for daytripping motorists and tramping backpackers. Verdant tobacco plants and olive trees, along with a multitude of young children, line the 12km road, running southwest to the ruins at Iraq al-Emir and the nearby grottos. The occasional Bedouin tent or woman herding her goats peeks out from the hills as the road approaches the ruins. The villagers of Wadi Seer believe that the identity of the site’s mysterious builders is encoded in the carvings on the monolithic blocks of brown stone that stand between the town and the caves. The only clue offered by the caves is the Aramaic inscription “Tobiah” near two of the cave windows.

Entertainment

Amman’s nightlife thrives during the months of summer. When the sweltering days give way to the serene, cool evenings, nocturnal enthusiasts will find fulfillment on dance floors or in restaurants. Most of Amman’s major hotels have late-night fests. On the far side of Shmeisani (about twice as far as the Ambassador Hotel, on the same road) is the Middle East Hotel, which hosts an excellent disco ("Talk of the Town") on Monday and Thursday nights. The revolving, mirrored ball suspended over the dance floor evokes memories of Elvis and John Travolta. The crowd of mixed Jordanians and foreigners is mostly in their late twenties and the times range from techno to reggae. Amman’s younger youth (late teens, early twenties) party at the brand-new Scandel, in the basement of the San Rock Hotel (Sixth Circle).

Mirrored walls, black upholstered booths, and purple neon lights made this the hottest spot in summer ‘93- Also out by Sixth Circle, the Amra Hotel has a fairly lively nightclub on Fridays and Saturdays, for an older crowd than is found at the Middle gast or Scandel. Cover charge at these places is usually around JD5 (some include a complimentary soft drink or beer) and drinks cost JD1.500-3.500. The Ef Cesar Restaurant on Jabal al-Weibdeh offers more traditional Jordanian music and dancing- but few affordable comestibles.

For those who enjoy mellow band music and a sedate, outdoor atmosphere, Graffiti, at the Shepherd Hotel (Second Circle, Omar Bin al-Khattab St., opposite the south gate of the Islamic college) is the place to be. The crowd is a mixture of foreigners and natives in their twenties (cover charge JD2). The Celler, in the basement of Al-Qasr Hotel (Shmeisani, between the Ambassador and Nefertiti Hotels), is a more expensive option featuring sax and piano players alternating with the latest music videos. (Cover charge JD5.)
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Sights

Although Amman is usually considered an inhabited way station between Jordan’s major attractions, it has several worthwhile sights. The Roman Theater, downtown on Jabal al-Qala’a, is the most renowned. Built by Antoninus Pius (138-61 AD), the theater could accommodate 6000 spectators. (Open daily 8am-5pm. Free.) Beyond the Odeon, a smaller theater, is a new piazza. The short stroll between AI-Husseini Mosque and the Nymphaeum is crowded with pedestrians and twinkling evening lights.

Two museums are built into the foundations of the theater on either side of the stage area. The Folklore Museum (tel. 65 17 42) has two rooms filled with mannequins impersonating an entertaining cast of Jordanian characters, as well as smaller rooms displaying Palestinian embroidery. (Open Wed.-Mon. 8am-5pm. Admission 250flIs.) The Museum of Popular Traditions (tel. 65 17 60) shows off current attire and Jordanian jewels. Learn about the origins of regional embroidery and why the white shawl is called “the thrilling of the soul.” The gallery to the right of the entrance displays 6th-century mosaics from Madaba and Jerash. (Open daily 8am-5pm. Admission 25Ofils.)

Food

Amman’s edibles combine the city’s Bedouin and Palestinian heritages. The better sit-down restaurants cluster near Third Circle, in Shmeisani, and along Mecca St.; these places usually add a 10% service charge to the bill. If the menu is in Arabic, ask the waiter to translate. Endless varieties of street food are cheap and plentiful; your stomach’s probably safest on the main thoroughfares (we make no guarantees).

Shwarma is always available for about 200fils, but the most succulent stuff comes from the stands on Prince Muhammad St. just downhill from Third Circle, and on the Second Circle near the Lebanese Embassy. Falafel and corn on the cob go for lOOfils and 250fils respectively. Common sides include hummus plates and salads for 25O-35Ofils. Think twice before chowing down on that salad, though—vegetables may not be well washed, and DDT is hardly an ideal garnish.

Bread is, well, a staple. Khoubz (flat-bread) is the most convenient; ka’ik (sesame rings) the most tasty. Both are available at almost any stand for 100-200fils. Ask for za’atar (dried thyme, sesame seeds and salt) to sprinkle on top. For more variety, try cheese or meat sfiehah (Arabic pizzas) or manaish (bread baked with olive oil, za’atar, and other spices).

Accommodations

Many clean and reputable hotels are located near the Abdali Bus Station in Jabal al-Weibdeh. Close to the city center and convenient for transport out of Amman, this is also the safest area for female budget travelers. Just beyond Jabal al-Weibdeh lies the opulent Shmeisani district with a few reasonably priced accommodations.

The city center, on the other hand, is overgrown with small, seedy hotels. Since every block has three or four hell-holes and every alley at least one, look carefully so as not to get burned. Most of these are not too clean, rattle with each passing truck, and may still be full of Iraqis in no hurry to return home. But the hotels are cheap;

singles usually JD5, doubles JDS. (Feel free to bargain.) Women alone should definitely avoid staying in this area. Establishments of similar quality cluster near the Wahadat Bus Station.

Practical Information

Ministry of Tourism: P.O. Box 224 (tel. 64 23 11). From the Third Circle on Jabal Amman, walk down the street to the left of the Ministry of Information. Distributes free maps, hotel price lists, and other info. Open Sat.-Thurs. 8am-2pm.

Ministry of Interior: On the southwest side of Ministry of the Interior Circle near the Marriott Hotel, Jabal Hussein (tel. 66 31 11). Issues free permits to visit the West Bank and Jerusalem. Bring two photos and your passport at least three days before your trip. Open Sat.-Thurs. 8am-2pm.

Embassies: U.S., in Abdoun (tel. 82 01 01, fax 81 37 59). From the Fifth Circle take the third right on the street that goes towards the Orthodox club. The fortress-like complex is 500m down that road and can only be missed by the blind. Consular division open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-4pm. Observes all Jordanian and most American holidays. Canada, in Shmeisani near the Petra Bank (tel. 66 61 24). Open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-4pm. U.K.: Abd ad-Damascus St. (tel. 82 31 00), near the Orthodox Club in Abdoun. Consular division open Sun.-Thurs. 8:30am-noon. Australia, Fourth Circle on Jabal Amman (tel. 67 32 46). Helpful with foreign visas. Open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-2:30pm. Open for inquiries Mon. and Wed. 9am-noon. Egypt, Jabal Amman (tel. 60 51 75). Consulate is between the Fourth and Fifth Circles; take a right by the Japanese embassy. The Egyptian embassy is 100m down the road to the left. Same day visas: bring a photo and JD12 before noon. Open Sat.-

Intercity

Buses to the north central and northwestern parts of the country, including the Jordan Valley, leave from Abdali Bus Station on King Hussein St. on Jabal al-Weibdeh. Destinations include Jerash, Ajlun, Irbid, Salt, and the King Iiussein/Allenby Bridge. Hashemi Street Station, near the Roman amphitheater, launches traffic to the northeast, including Zarqa, Mafraq, and points east of Irbid. Traffic to and from the south is based at Wahadat Station, several kilometers from downtown Amman between the Abu Darwish Mosque and the Wahadat Refugee Camp. Buses head south to Madaba, Karak, Ma"an, Wadi Musa, and Aqaba. The Jett bus station, with service to major towns in Jordan, is on King Hussein St., up the road from Abdali Bus Station (see Practical Information below for more details).

Service taxis leave from the same stations as buses, to the same regions. Fares tend do be 40-50% more expensive than comparable bus fares. All prices, bus and service alike, are government regulated.

Transportation - Within Amman

To reach locations within the city or to find the departure point for buses and service, ask a downtown shopkeeper—at a minimum, you’ll be pointed in the right direction, and quite possibly you’ll be escorted there. You can flag buses and service anywhere along their routes, but expect to wait quite a while before a vehicle with space for another biped creature stops. Public transportation stops about 8-9pm, and a couple of hours earlier than that on Fridays; after that, walking is the only alternative to the expensive regular taxis. These yellow, metered cabs prowl the streets in search of fares until I lpm, sometimes later.

Cabs charge 150fils plus about lOOflls per kilometer. The approximate cost to travel from downtown to Third Circle, or from Third to Sixth Circle, is 500fils. The trip from downtown to Abdali costs around 35Ofils. A taxi between the two bus/service stations (Abdul and Warhead, see intercity transportation below) should cost 800fils. Also, the trip along Jabal Amman, from the First to the Eighth Circles, should not cost more than 800fils. (See Transportation in Jordan Once There.)

Orientation

The downtown district of Amman, called Al-Balad in Arabic, lies in a valley neatly framed by the seven jabals. Streets from the city’s large western districts pour off the jabals into King Faisal Street, the perpetually crowded heart of the downtown commercial communities. Faisal St. runs into the Al-Husseini Mosque, the center of modern Amman. Several blocks southwest is the market; to the northeast lie the graceful Roman Amphitheater and the new piazza.

Though distances between jabals appear short on a map, traversing these slopes is a hack hiker’s nightmare. Jabal Amman, along whose summit you can see the neon signatures of budget-breaking luxury hotels, is the governmental and diplomatic core of the city. Amman’s eight numbered traffic circles follow a line leading westward out of town; traffic circles beyond Third Circle have been replaced by busy intersections. Although the city is earnestly attempting to rename these intersections “squares,” they are still fondly called “circles.” From Seventh Circle, traffic heads south to Queen Alia International Airport and the Desert Highway (Aqaba 335km), to the Kings’ Highway via Madaba (35km; Karak 125km; Petra 260km), and via Na’ur to the Dead Sea and to Jerusalem (90km). From the Eighth Circle, you can continue west to Wad) Seer, or head north to Jerash (50km). From the Ninth Circle, there are no mirrors, there is no exit.

Northern Jordan - Amman

“Allah Akbar, Allaaah Akbar. La Ilah Ila Allah…” The call to prayer summons the slumbering as the sun slowly illuminates the seven hills (jabals) on which the capital of Jordan resides. The Ammonite capital in biblical times and later the Greco-Roman city of Philadelphia, modem Amman was merely a village in the decades preceding 1948. However, the insignificant village rapidly expanded into a metropolis when waves of Palestinian refugees flocked to the city in search of shelter and opportunity following the Arab-Israeli wars of 1948 and 1967. Egyptian and Southeast Asian workers, originally attracted by the dinar’s strength and employment opportunities in Amman, form an important segment of the city’s population.

Finally, the city’s nearly bursting seams were further expanded by the arrival of a wave of immigrants from Iraq and Kuwait following the 1991 Gulf War. The pre-1948 population of 6000 has exploded to well over one million inhabitants today, roughly one-third of Jordan’s total population. Despite the serious decline in the Jordanian economy in 1989, Amman’s streets pulsate with a relentless commotion. Honking horns, wailing mosques, grimy children selling gum on street comers, and cars maneuvering through traffic at breakneck speeds are but a few of the city’s compelling charms.
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