Sabastiya

An array of Israelite, Hellenistic, and Roman ruins can be found in the multi-colored hills 1 lkm northwest of Nablus. The strategic peak on which the ruins lie was first settled by Omri, King of Israel, in the 9th century BC as the city of Shomron (Samaria), which served as the capital of the Israelite kingdom until the Assyrians invasion of the 8th century BC. Under Herod, the city was made the showpiece of the Holy Land to win the favor of the Roman Emperor.

The ruins are just above the present-day Arab village of Sabastiya. Unfortunately, most of the ancient splendor is long since gone. All that remains of a Roman theater are a few steps overgrown with weeds; at the top of the hill lie the remnants of Israelite and Hellenistic acropolis walls, a Roman acropolis, and the column bases of the Temple of Augustus. Blue signs label each ruin in Hebrew, Arabic, and English.

The narrow 1.5-km path that encircles the ruins is treacherous watch your step or you may end up taking the quick and painful route into the valley below. The site is currently untended and free. Service taxis to Sabastiya are available from Nablus (NIS2.5); walk uphill and take your first right.

Mount Gerizim, the tree-covered slope southeast of Nablus, features a terrific view of the Shomron Valley. Since the 4th century BC, it has been the holy mountain of the Samaritans, who revere it as the spot where the original Ten Commandments are buried and where Abraham prepared to sacrifice his son Isaac. The Samaritans, an Israelite sect who were excommunicated in biblical times, are distinguished by their literal interpretation of certain scriptures (refer to the Introduction to the Region for more details). The highlight of the Samaritan observance of Passover is the sacrifice of sheep atop Mount Gerizim. Tourist buses from Jerusalem and Tel Aviv bring visitors to witness the bloody rite. The hike up the mountain is arduous, but taxis can be hired for about NISI 5.

Sights After arriving in the center of Nablus, wander south past a pleasant, cheap fresh fruit market (next to Nablus circle) and into the crowded streets and passageways of the market, overflowing with Nablus merchants, Palestinian customers, and tea-sipping onlookers. Try a piece of the famous, extraordinarily rich knajfeh nablusia. Nablus churns out countless tray-fulls of this cheese concoction, which is topped with sweet orange flakes and honey (0.25kg NTS2.5). For the duration of the intifada, the market is open 9am-lpm. Although you’ll feel much more comfortable if you have a guide, stopping to chat and swap stories can often dissipate any awkwardness.

Throughout the market you’ll continue to see the smiling image of Dafer Masri, Nablus’s Palestinian mayor. A wreathed monument next to the municipality building marks the spot where he was slain in the winter of 1986. More than likely, his assassins were Palestinians who resented his alleged chumminess with Israeli leadership; the killing is remembered with great bitterness here.
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Practical Information Nablus lies 63km north of Jerusalem and 46km north of Ramallah-an easy day trip from Jerusalem. Take one of the Tamini Co. buses from Nablus Rd. in Jerusalem (schedule is irregular, duration 1.5-2hrs., NIS6). The last bus to Jerusalem from Nablus leaves at 3pm, but don’t count on it. Service taxis to and from Jerusalem are a safer bet; they cost NIS9 and will drop you in the center of town, after changing cars in Ramallah.

Nablus

The descent into Nablus from the surrounding mountains oflfers the only peaceful view of this turbulent city. Known to many Israelis by its biblical name, Sh’khem, Nablus is the today largest city in the West Bank (not counting East Jerusalem) and home to its second-largest university, An-Najafr, many young Palestinians look upon it as a candidate for the intellectual and administrative capital of their unborn nation. Besides its predominantly Muslim population, Nablus is also home to about 480 Samaritans (about two-thirds the total Samaritan population today).

The current city was founded by Titus near the site of Sh’khem in 72 AD as the “New City” of Flavia Neapolis, in honor of his father Flavias Vespasian. Since then, its streets have witnessed religious strife, the crusades, a devastating earthquake in 1927, the British Mandate, Israeli occupation, and, most recently, the intifada.
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Birzeit

Twelve kilometers northwest of Ramallah is the largest and most important university on the West Bank. Birzeit University’s 2500 students have a history of vocal and sometimes violent opposition to the Israeli occupation; whenever political turmoil forces the Israeli army to tighten security in the West Bank, Birzeit is shut down. In the first years of the intifada, Israeli authorities closed down the university altogether, reopening in April 1992. Specify that you want to visit the university (jama’a) and not the town. The old campus is next to the last bus stop; the palatial new campus lies 2km out of town on the road back to Ramallah. Bus #19 leaves for Birzeit from Radio Blvd. in Ramallah, just off Manara Sq. Taxis leave from the same street.

Beit-El

Beit-el (Bethel), 5km northeast of Ramallah on the road to Nablus, is thought to be the place where Jacob lay down to sleep and dreamed of a ladder ascending to heaven with angeis going down and up. Upon awakening, Jacob built an altar and named the spot Beit-EI, “House of God” (Genesis 28:12-19).

Today, Beit-El is the headquarters of the Israeli civilian administration that governs the West Bank. Although the administration delegates a modicum of authority to Arab mayors and other Palestinian leaders, power remains in the hands of the Israeli officials. The administration center itself is of no interest to tourists, but a visit to the nearby Jewish settlement of Beit-El may be worthwhile. Surrounded by tall fences and barbed wire and guarded by army patrols, the settlement provides a glimpse of lite in one of the besieged settlements. Most of the working population commutes to Jerusalem, but there are also a few cottage industries, including a workshop that manufactures tefillin (religious articles worn by orthodox male Jews on the head and arm during some prayers).

Beit-El is accessible by Egged bus *70 from Jerusalem or Al-Bireh. From Ramallah you can walk, take a taxi, or take the bus going to Nablus.

Practical Information If the political situation improves, the Pension Miami (tel. 95 28 08) on Jaffa Rd. may reopen. You can find good falafel (NISI.5). shwarma (NIS4), and an excellent variety of Arabic sweets throughout the town. For a real treat, stop by Rukab’s Ice Cream (tel. 95 24 67) on Ein Misbah St. for some freshly made ice cream (NIS3.5) or a glass of cold lemonade (NIS2).

Since the March 1993 closure of the West Bank, Ramallah has become a transportation hub for Arabs unable to get into East Jerusalem. As long as this is still in effect, you can go from here directly to most West Bank towns by service taxis. From Jerusalem, take a service taxi (20min., NIS2) from just outside Damascus Gate. Arab bus ^18 from the station on Nablus Rd. just north of Damascus Gate (40min., NISI.5) stops to pick up every man, woman and child en route. Buses to Jerusalem leave fromjaffa Rd. in Ramallah, just off Manara Sq., the main traffic circle. The last bus leaves around 5pm, the last service taxi at about 6pm.

Ramallah

Just 16km north of Jerusalem, at 900m above sea level, Ramallah is famous for its cool, pleasant mountain air. Before 1967, the prosperous town was known as the “Bride of Palestine,” a summer haven for Arabs from Jordan, Lebanon, and the Gulf region. With vacationers long since gone, Ramallah has assumed in recent years a leading role in intifada politics. While definitely calm compared to Nablus or Hebron, Ramallah is still a town in the West Bank, where tranquility is a relative measure.

Palestinians in Ramallah live up to ideas of Arab generosity. A visibly confused tourist will soon be surrounded by people offering countless solutions; absence of street signs will put you in this position faster than you think. Use the opportunity to strike up a conversation, improve your Arabic, and gain an insight into the Palestinian perspective on the latest events. The town is among the least conservative in the West Bank; women can go in pants and a t-shirt.
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Sights

Abraham chose Hebron, the highest of the four Jewish holy cities (at an altitude of 1030m), as the site of his family cemetery. Beginning with his wife, Sarah (Genesis 23:17-19), all the subsequent matriarchs and patriarchs but one were buried in the Cave of Makhpela. (The exception is Jacob’s second wife, Rachel, who died on the way to Bethlehem.) Makhpela means a double cave, or cave over a cave. Some claim that Abraham chose the cave because he knew it to be the burial place of Adam and Eve. Consequently, many rabbis explain that Kiryat Arba refers not to four giants, but to the four married couples purportedly interred here: Abraham and Sarah, Isaac and Rebecca, Jacob and Leah, and Adam and Eve. The patch of land above the tombs has been fiercely contested throughout history by Crusaders, Muslims, and Jews.

The colossal edifice that now stands over the Cave of Makhpela more resembles a fortress than a house of worship. Both Jewish and Muslim traditions attribute the original stonework of the building to King Solomon’s reign. The king is said to have enlisted the help of demons to cut and paste the large blocks. The oldest surviving sections, forming the base of the 3m-thick walls, date from King Herod’s time. The building fell into disrepair in subsequent centuries, though a small synagogue inside the ruins was continually maintained. In 372 AD the Byzantines built a roof and used the refurbished structure as a church.

Practical Information and Food

Palestinians here carefully distinguish between Israelis and tourists; refer again to the beginning of the West Bank section for safety tips.Visitors should make an effort to be respectful of Muslim traditions. Stay in central areas such as King David St. and the area around the Cave of Makh-pela. If you do get lost, look it-many young Palestinians in Hebron love to practice their English by giving long-winded directions. Leave Hebron well before sunset. Don’t even think about investigating the nightlife. Before you come, check the security situation in the newspapers, at your consulate, the GTIO, and the Office of Visitor Information (212 Jaffa Rd., Jerusalem). You cannot be too careful. If you encounter stone-hurling youths, try your best not to run; running away frantically only justifies to them their original suspicions.

Located 35km south of Jerusalem on the road to Be’er Sheva, Hebron is the only urban center on the West Bank south of Bethlehem. Egged buses #34, 440, and 443 (NIS9) come from the Jerusalem central bus station and stop in the main square in front of the Cave of Makhpela after stopping in the Kiryat Arba settlement. Buses run until dark. Arab bus #23 (NIS3), which runs frequently from Damascus Gate, will drop you in the city center, where King Faisal, King David, and Khalil ar-Rah-man St. converge. From here, a 1-km walk along King David Street brings you to the tombs; follow the signs east to the Cave of Makhpela. Service taxis shuttle between Jerusalem’s Jaffa and Damascus Gates and Hebron’s King David St., near the cave and the old market. Taxis cost three times as much (NIS4.5O) but are faster and run until about 7pm. The last Arab bus for Jerusalem departs at about 5:45pm from King Faisal St., just outside the city center, but think twice about staying that late.
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Hebron

Al-Khalil ar-Rabman (Hebron’s full Arabic name, shortened to Al-Khalil) means “compassionate friend,” and the Hebrew name, Hevron, comes from haver (friend). The friend in question is Abraham (Ibrahim/Avraham), traditionally the common ancestor of both peoples. Friendly, however, is hardly the word to describe the Israeli-Palestinian relationship here. The predominantly Palestinian residents of Hebron harbor fierce resentment over the two decades of Israeli occupation, and the combination of Hebron’s Palestinians’ fearlessness and a large Israeli military presence by the old bus station has been the source of many serious clashes during the intifada. It was in Hebron’s Park Hotel that the first Jewish settlement on the West Bank was established, in April 1968. The proximity of Kiryat Arba, a major Jewish settlement, paired with efforts to reestablish a Jewish quarter within the town (550 Jews amidst 65,000 Palestinians), has only exacerbated tensions here.
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Wadi Qelt

Hiking through Wadi Qelt (Nahal Prat in Hebrew), where the arid Judean desert cracks open and reveals an oasis, is like burrowing through the pantry right after Mother Nature restocks the shelves. Three fresh-water springs nourish lush greener)’ and wildlife, threading 28km between imperious limestone cliffs and undulating ridges of bone-white chalk. Descending 395m below sea level, the wadi is a reasonably safe adventure that offers more drama than the resort oasis at Ein Gedi.

The most interesting and accessible section of the wadi extends from the spring of Ein Qelt, past the 6th-century Monastery of St. George, and down into Jericho, 10km east. The trek rakes about four hours, adventures in dawdledom excluded.

The best place to start is at the turn-off from the Jerusalem-Jericho highway about 9km west of Jericho, marked by the orange sign for “St. George’s Monastery.” Take Egged bus #73 (NIS10.50) to the turn-off from the bus stop across from the central bus station in Jerusalem; buses depart at 6:15am and 2:30pm. For late risers, Arab bus #28 to Jericho (leaving every hour) passes the same turn-off- The trip from Jerusalem takes about an hour. If you’re driving it’s possible to skip the liike and drive most of the way to St. George’s by following signs.

Sights Near Jericho

The road from Jerusalem to Jericho slices through the harsh desert landscape of the Judean wilderness. About 8km before Jericho the Mosque of Nabi Musa stands on a hill in the sea of sand, a short distance from the road. This spot is revered throughout the Muslim world as the grave of the prophet Moses, and many Muslims yearn to be buried by his side after they die. Islamic tradition holds that God carried the bones of the prophet here for the faithful to come and pay their respects. The 13th-century Mamluk mosque containing the prophet’s tomb has been closed to the public since early 1993.

About 10km east of Jericho is Al-Maghtes, the spot on the Jordan River where John the Baptist is believed to have baptized Jesus. A 19th-century Greek Orthodox monastery marks the spot where Christians still come to immerse themselves. The site is under military supervision and is closed to the public except on one day each in October and January, when the Greek Orthodox and the Roman Catholics, respectively, celebrate the Epiphany. The best way to get there is with a private taxi hired in Jericho. Inquire at the GTIO for updates on the status of these sites.

Ancient Jericho, thought by some to be the oldest city in the world, is now a heap of ruined walls. Called Tel as-Sultan, the mound contains layer upon layer of garbage from ancient (and modem) cities. The oldest fortifications, 12m down, are 7000 years old. Some of the finds date from the early Neolithic period, leading archeologists to suspect that Jericho was inhabited as early as the eighth millennium BC. A limited amount of excavation has exposed many levels of ancient walls, some of them 3.5m thick and 5.5m high. Your imagination will have to substitute for visible splendor at this distinctly unphotogenic site (tel. 92 29 09; open daily, 8am-5pm. Admission NIS7.50, students NIS5).

An imposing Greek Orthodox monastery stands on the edge of a cliff among the mountains west of Jericho; the peak is believed to be the New Testament’s Mount of Temptation. The complex of buildings stands before a grotto, said to be the spot where Jesus fasted for 40 days and 40 nights after his baptism in the Jordan River (Matthew 4:1-11). Six Greek monks now live in the monastery, built in 1895. Ask one to point out the rock where Jesus was tempted by the devil and served by angels. The road to the monastery heads past the shops near ancient Jericho.

The summit of the mountain, named Qarantal after the Latin word for “forty,” also serves as a pedestal for the Maccahean Castle of Dok, beside which lie the remains of a 4th-century Christian chapel. (Monastery open daily 7am-noon. Modest dress required.)

Sights Jericho’s most popular sights, Hisham’s Palace and ancient Jericho, lie on the outskirts of town. Since a cluster of restaurants and a cooling spring near the ancient city provide a pleasant rest stop, visit Hishaffl’s Palace first.

To reach the ruins of Hisham’s Palace (tel. 92 25 22), follow the signs along Qasr Hisham St., which heads north from the eastern side of Jericho’s main square. The palace is 3km north on paved roads. Coming from ancient Jericho, head north on the main road leading through the Ern as-Sultan refugee camp. After 1.5km, turn right on the road back to Jericho town; the turn-off to Hisham’s Palace will be almost immediately to your left.
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Practical Information Forty km east of Jerusalem, Jericho lies on the road to Amman at the junction of the highway to the Galilee. The King Hussein/Allenby Bridge, located 10km east of Jericho, has served as the only route across the Jordan River since the King Abdallah Bridge to the south was destroyed in the 1967 war. See Essentials: Travel in the Region for information on border crossings.

Arab bus ~28 (NIS2.50) from the Damascus Gate station runs to the bus stop on Ein as-Sultan St.. one block north of the central traffic circle. Egged buses #961 and 963 (lhr., NIS10.50, NIS9.5O) and buses to the Galilee leaving from Jerusalem’s central bus station will drop you off on Jerusalem St. near the military administration office, but no longer go into die city itself, so may be less practical. Arab buses stop running at 4:30pm but you can catch Egged buses for Jerusalem until about 7pm. After that you may still be able to catch a service taxi from the taxi stand on the square in front of the municipality building. These shared taxis run frequently between Jericho’s main square and the Damascus Gate taxi stand in Jerusalem (NIS5). You can also take a taxi to Ramallah (NIS7).

Jericho

Descending from Jerusalem on a roller-coaster road, winding through barren mountains into the scorched Jordan River Valley, centuries peel away as you approach the refreshing oasts of Jericho. In marked contrast to the parched surroundings, Jericho’s shimmering water canals and lush fruit trees make it a vision of the Arabian heaven. A closer look reveals occasional graffiti, barbed wire, a refugee camp-dispelling the mirage with reminders of this ancient city’s contemporary troubles. Recent peace negotiations may turn Jericho into the first self-ruled Palestinian town.

Jericho (Ariha in Arabic, Yeriho in Hebrew) is one of the oldest continually inhabited sites in the world. It is best known for the biblical account of its walls, which came crashing down when Joshua sounded his trumpets after seven days of siege. According to the Bible, two spies sent into town by Joshua were sheltered in the house of the harlot, Rahab. In exchange for the deed, her family was to be spared if she marked her house with a scarlet thread. When the tribes of Israel attacked, the entire city was destroyed save the single house with a scarlet cord dangling from its window (Joshua 2-6).

Mar Saba Monastery

More remarkable and isolated than Herodian is the Mar Saba Monastery. Carved into the walls of a remote canyon, the extensive monastery complex stands precariously above the sewer-esque Kidron River. The monastery was built opposite the cave, marked by a cross, where St. Saba began his ascetic life in 478 AD. The attractive bones of St. Saba are on display in the main church. Women are strictly forbidden to enter and must view the chapels and buildings from a tower near the monastery.

Men must wear long pants and long sleeves to be admitted. To enter the monastery, pull the chain on the large blue door. Once inside, you’ll be given a five-minute tour in English by one of the monks. The monks occasionally ignore the doorbell on Sundays and late in the afternoon; try to arrive early on a weekday. There is no entrance fee, but it is customary to make a contribution. (Open daily 7am-l lam and 1:30pm-5pm.) You need to hire a private taxi from Bethlehem to get here.

Shepherd’s Field

Beyond the Arab village of Beit Sahur on the eastern edge of Bethlehem is the Field of Ruth, believed to be the setting for the biblical Book of Ruth. The name of the village in Hebrew is “House of the Shepherds,” and Christian tradition holds that this is Shepherd’s Field, where those tending their flocks were greeted by the angel who pronounced the birth of Jesus (Luke 2:9-11)- Take bus #47 (NISI) from the stop behind the police station in Manger Sq., get off at Beit Sahur, and walk 20 minutes to the site. Otherwise, you can walk the 4km from Bethlehem; follow the signs. (Open daily 8am-noon and 3-5pm.)

The Greek Patriarchate oversees the site where shepherds were told of Jesus’ birth. Located 1.5km east of Bethlehem off Al-Ruaa St., the site includes a 6th-cen-tury Byzantine basilica (tel. 74 31 35), monastery, the Holy Cave (350 AD) featuring mosaic crosses in the floor, as well as a small cave filled with human bones. (Open dairy 8am-12:3Opm and 2-5pm.) The Franciscans run a competing shepherd’s field 0.5km further down the road. Their site includes a small monastery (400 AD) and a number of ancient cooking pots and coins left by shepherds on the site. (Open daily 8-ll:30amand2-5pm.)

Herodian
Rising from the plains of the Judean desert 10km southeast of Bethlehem near the village of Asakirah are the ruins of Herodian, a winsome fortified palace perched atop a conical peak. King Herod, haunted by fears of assassination, ordered the construction of this hideout in the first century BC. Enclosed within the massive circular double walls and guarded by four watch towers were all the comforts of Rome: palace, garden, and bathhouse.

Fifteen meters below the floor, two giant cisterns were filled with water hauled in by donkeys. Though engineered to protect the Roman-sponsored ruler from discontented Jews, the palace actually became a rebel stronghold during the Jewish revolts of the first and second centuries AD. From the top you can see Jerusalem to the north, Bethlehem to the west, the Dead Sea to the east, and the desolate Judean Desert to the south. (Open daily 8am-5pm. Admission N1S12 for individuals, organized groups NIS9, students NIS6.) To reach Herodian, share a taxi from Bethlehem for NIS3O-4O round-trip or hike past Shepherd’s Field on the road from Beit Sahur; it’s 7km from the marked turn-off. At tense times, hiking may not be safe: ask in the GTIO before you leave.

Sights

A church masquerading as a fortress, the massive Basilica of the Nativity on Manger Sq. is the oldest continuously used church in the world. Under the supervision of his mother Helena, Constantine the Great erected the first basilica in 326 over the site of Jesus’ birth. During the Persian invasion in 614 virtually every Christian shrine in the Holy Land was demolished with the exception of this basilica, reputedly spared because it contained a potent mosaic of the three wise men which had special anti-artillery powers.

The Crusaders extensively renovated the church but it fell into disrepair after their defeat by the Muslims. By the 15th century it had become undeniably decrepit, but the basilica’s importance as a holy shrine never waned. Thus during the ensuing centuries, struggle for its control among Catholic, Greek, and Armenian Christians repeatedly led to bloodshed. Not until the 1840s was the church restored to its former dignity, but squabbles between the various sects over the division of the edifice continue. In recent years an elaborate system of worship schedules has harmonized the competing claims of the different groups, but the confusion and tension resulting from the Greek Orthodox Church’s rejection of summer daylight savings time demonstrates the teetering balance of this arrangement.

Accommodations & Food

Although today the town of Bethlehem offers more than mangers, rates and political tension are much higher than in ancient times. Bethlehem doesn’t really cater to the budget traveler. Unless you are here during Christmas or Easter, stay in Jerusalem and make Bethlehem a daytrip.

Casa Nova, off Manger Sq. (tel. 74 39 80), to the left of the entrance to the Basilica of the Nativity. Marble floor and stained-glass windows in lobby might remind you of the set of the 700 Club. Modem rooms and plenty of hot water. Bed and breakfast US$19- Half board US$21. Full board US$27. US$9 extra to convert your double room into a single. Prices do not include a 5% service charge.

Practical Information

Bethlehem lies 8km south of Jerusalem. Most of what you’ll need in Bethlehem is located on or near Manger Square, across from the Basilica of the Nativity. The area enclosed by Najajreh and Star Streets, both of which begin at Manger Sq., contains most of the town’s shopping district, including the open-air market. This part of town has several pharmacies, which take turns staying open in the afternoon during the strikes.

Government Tourist Information Office (GTIO): Manger Sq. (tel. 74 15 81), directly across the Square from the Basilica. Excellent free map of the town (sometimes available at the Jerusalem tourist office), details about special events during Christmas and Easter, and transportation information- They can provide a list of accommodations. Open daily 8am-4pm.

Currency Exchange: Bank Leumi (tel. 74 33 30 and 74 29 29), Barclay’s Discount Bank (tel. 74 25 95), and Cairo Amman Bank (tel. 74 49 71), next to GTIO, all in Manger Sq. Leumi open Sun.-Thurs. 8am-12:30ptn, Fri. 8am-noon. Barclay’s and Cairo Amman daily 8am-12:30pm.

Bethlehem

Bethlehem (Beit Lahm in Arabic, Beit Lehem in Hebrew) is the biblical setting for Rachel’s death, the love of Ruth and Boaz, and the discovery of the lyrical shepherd David, future king of Israel. But what really put Bethlehem on the pilgrimage map was the pastoral birth of Jesus. Today, biblical charm remains hidden behind fleets of tour buses unloading blue-haired Christian zealots in front of souvenir stands; try to peel off, in your mind’s eye, the layers of commercialism to enjoy the town’s liis-torical aura and the beauty of its surroundings.

Bethlehem has been less than pastoral since the outbreak of the intifada. More than 32 Bethlehem residents have been killed, often by the Israeli army, and the first Israeli casualty of the intifada was stabbed here. Since the city relies heavily upon tourism, Bethlehem has been hardest hit by commercial strikes; the masses who flood Manger Square nowadays are but a fraction of the pre-intifada crowds, which means tourists (and any of their financial benevolence) are more than ever welcome here. Churches still hold Christmas and Easter services, and events sponsored by the Bethlehem municipality, including the annual parade from Jerusalem to Bethlehem, continue to take place.

Sights In The West Bank

Near Jerusalem: Bethany A relatively prosperous Palestinian village, Bethany (Al-Ayzariya) was the home of Lazarus and his sisters Mary and Martha. A Franciscan Church (tel. 27 17 06) built in 1954 marks the spot where Jesus supposedly slept. The church features several impressive mosaics, including one of the resurrection of Lazarus and another of the Last Supper. Three earlier shrines, the earliest built in the 4th century AD, have been excavated nearby. South of the church lie the remains of a vast abbey built in 1143 AD by Queen Melisende. (Open daily March-Oct. 8-11:30am and 2-6pm; Nov.-Feb. 8-11:30am and 2-5pm. Small donations appreciated.)

Bethany is home to the first-century Tomb of Lazarus, which was enshrined in the 4th century. When the Crusaders arrived, they built a church over Lazarus’s tomb, a monastery over Mary and Martha’s house, and a tower over Simon the Leper’s abode (Simon was another resident of Bethany cured by Jesus). In the 16th century the Muslims erected a mosque over the grotto, and in the following century Cliristians dug another entrance to the tomb so they too could worship there.

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Literature

Much of Palestinian literature is concerned with the agony of foreign occupation and exile. Ghassan Kanafani, perhaps the greatest contemporary Palestinian writer, recreates the desperation and aimlessness of the refugee experience in his novel All That Remains: Palestine’s Children. A book of short stories by the same author looks at Palestine through the eyes of her embattled and sometimes embittered children, while Men in the Sun and Other Palestinian Stories portrays the struggle through adult eyes.

The longing for a Palestinian homeland is expressed through the poems of Fouzi al-Asmar, collected in The Wind-Driven Reed and Other Poems. For a broader anthology of resistance poetry, look for The Palestinian Wedding, edited by Abd al-EImessiri. Other well-known Palestinian writers include Mahmoud Dar-
wish, Samih al-Qassem, and Fawaz Turki. Works on the intifada are listed in the Essentials in the Introduction to the Region.

Government & Politics

There are currently several authorities vying for power in the West Bank: the Israeli Military Administration, named the Civil Administration for Judea and Samaria, and the underground Palestinian resistance organizations, including PLO factions and Hamas. The PLO’s mam faction is Yasir Arafat’s Al-Fatah; more radical is the Popular Front for the Liberation of Palestine (PFLP).

The military administration was established after the 1967 war to govern the Palestinian population, who were not granted Israeli citizenship. Israel maintains control through a rigid system of permits-any Palestinian resident of the West Bank who wishes to construct a building, plant a crop, start a business, or dig a well must first painstakingly obtain permission from the military authorities. Israeli settlers in the West Bank have added another dimension to the imbroglio. Viewing the West Bank as part of Eretz Yisrael (the land of Israel), they have had little patience with rock-hurling Palestinians and the Israeli government’s inability to permanently quell the uprising. There have been violent incidents between settlers and Palestinians.
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Life And Times - Political History

When Jordan conquered the territory in 1948, King Abdallah angered most Palestinians by annexing the region instead of creating a separate state as the UN partition resolution stipulated. Occupied by Israel since the 1967 Six-Day War, the West Bank today is neither autonomous nor officially annexed by Israel, but under Israeli military administration.

Israeli civilian law does not apply to non-Israeli citizens, but it does apply to some 110,000 Israeli Jews who have settled in the West Bank since its seizure in 1967- Launched by Labor governments eager to establish Israeli presence in areas of strategic importance such as the Jordan valley, the settlement project became an ideological cornerstone for right-wing Likud governments since 1977; motivated not only by security considerations, but also by a nationalist claim to an area they see as the heart of Eretz Yisrael (the land of Israel), the settlement movement expanded greatly under government ideological and financial auspice to include a wide array of settlements, from large suburban towns near Jerusalem to minuscule mobile-home communities tucked between Arab villages.

Keeping in Touch

The postal service in the West Bank is a part of the Israeli mail system; refer to the Communications section in Israel for more details. All major towns in the West Bank have at least one post office, where Poste Restante is available; letters should be addressed to the main post office in the town nearest you, West Bank, via Israel.

The telephone system in the West Bank is also integrated in the Israeli telephone network, operated by Bezek. All services, including collect and calling card calls, are available from any private or public telephone. Beige public telephones, operated by telecards, are conveniently located in most post offices, where you can also purchase the cards. Relevant area codes are (02) for East Jerusalem, Ramallah, and the South, and (09) for Nablus and the North. You may further identify the location of specific numbers by studying the first two digits (Ramallah: 95, Nablus: 37, East Jerusalem: 89, and Bethlehem: 74).

Direct international calls to Arab countries (except Egypt) from Israel or vice-versa are officially impossible but, like all other technicalities in the Middle East, this can be overcome, specifically through the use of an American or European satellite. These services are not usually advertised, so ask around if an emergency arises. The international phone code for the West Bank is the same as thai of Israel (972). For more information, refer to Communications in the Israel section.

Currency & Exchange

The economy of the West Bank, much to the displeasure of the native Palestinian population, has been dependent on the economy of Israel since the 1967 occupation. The new Israeli shekel (NIS) is the most prevalent and practical currency, although Jordanian dinars (JD) and U.S. dollars (US$) are also in use. Expect to be automatically labeled a tourist, however, and for prices to increase by a significant margin if you offer to pay for your purchase in anything other than shekels. Money changers, whose only wish is to cater to your needs, are scattered everywhere from street comers to jewelry shops.

Taxi Service taxis are the most convenient mode of West Bank transportation. Although slightly more expensive than Arab buses, they are also faster, more reliable, and more frequent. Use your time in a service to get to know some of your fellow passengers, especially on relatively long trips to Nablus or Hebron. If you feel lost or disoriented, consult the drivers; they are usually knowledgeable in matters ranging from the political situation to the location of an off-the-beaten-path ruin.

Private taxis are a more expensive option, but the most practical means of transportation when touring remote areas. A taxi driver can take you to the sight, and (for a few extra shekels) wait for you while you adore yet another Early Christian landmark.

Bus Both Arab and Egged buses service the West Bank. Arab buses leave from two main bus stations in East Jerusalem: the Suleiman St. Station, between Herod’s and Damascus Gates, for routes south, and the Nablus Rd. Station for points north. The most practical spot from which to catch Egged buses is the central bus station on Jaffa Rd. in West Jerusalem, but most buses traveling to the West Bank also stop at the Nablus Road Station. For most tourists, however, Egged buses should be a last resort in the West Bank; they cost more, and often only take you to the outskirts of Palestinian towns. Take them to the Jewish settlements.

Arab bus schedules to the West Bank are, well, flexible; the intervals listed here are approximate. Transportation to Nablus is particularly erratic. Buses may also pick up people from the side of the road. Arab buses have light blue stripes on the side (except for the Ramallah bus, which is red), while Egged buses are red and white.

Getting Around

All cities, towns, and villages in the West Bank are linked through a relatively reliable and cheap network of buses and shared taxis {service, pronounced ser-VEES). Although private taxis are readily available and are usually air-conditioned, they are also substantially more expensive.

A system of colored license plates serves to differentiate cars and their users. Vehicles registered in Israel, East Jerusalem, and the Jewish settlements in the occupied territories sport yellow plates. Blue plates signify Arab cars from the territories, whereas green plates belong to Arab public transportation vehicles (taxis and buses). Other possibilities include white (UN or diplomatic), red (police), or black (army). If you must use a vehicle with yellow license plates, make sure “UN” or the name of a Christian service agency is plastered all over the car.

While normally East Jerusalem is the unequivocal transportation hub of the West Bank, the present closure (which does not apply to East Jerusalem) has made it impossible for some local Palestinians to use Jerusalem as a transit terminal; as a result, some lines have been re-routed to Ramallah, and service from Jerusalem to remote places such as Nablus may be less than frequent.

Entry

Transit between Jordan and the West Bank involves crossing of the King Hussein/ Allenby Bridge, the only available link, with its inescapable seven circles of bureaucratic hell. (Information on crossing the bridge in Essentials: Travel in the Region). You can get into the West Bank from virtually any point in Israel, but the sanest way to tour the region is by taking daytrips from Jerusalem. Before you leave Jerusalem, consult all available sources, including your consulate, the GTIO (see Jerusalem Practical Information), the Office of Visitor Information of the Civil Administration (212 Jaffa Rd., Jerusalem), friends and neighbors and neighbors’ friends. Read a newspaper to stay abreast of current happenings in the towns and be flexible: Don’t visit the West Bank if you hear that a general strike has been declared-the transportation system will be shut down, the area paralyzed, and violence a real danger.

Since the closure of the occupied territories in March 1993, check points have been erected on all roads and highways entering Israel from the West Bank. Be prepared to present your passport or permit when asked by the posted Israeli official. Unannounced curfews and roadblocks can materialize anytime, and apply to tourists as well, Unless you plan to stay with close friends, be out of the West Bank by nightfall. The only accommodations presently available in the area are in Bethlehem, a short bus ride from Jerusalem; stay in Jerusalem.

West Bank

Travel in the Israeli-occupied West Bank can be dangerous during times of heightened Israeli-Palestinian tension. The U.S. and U.K. governments officially advise against traveling here. Inform your consulate of your plans if you decide to visit anyway. Changes in the political status of parts of the West Bank may alter some of the information given here. For important additional information on all aspects of travel in general and some specifics on the West Bank, see Essentials.

The small, rugged towns of the West Bank provide a physical immediacy to the events and characters of the Bible and the Qur’an. Since 1987, the West Bank has made international headlines as the site of the Palestinian uprising, the intifada. The closing off of the West Bank and the Gaza Strip by the Israeli authorities in March 1993, currently (summer 1993) still in effect, has only added to the general unrest. Travelers should inquire on current security conditions before leaving for any sight in the West Bank. Still, some areas in the West Bank, most notably those of touristic interest, are often safe enough to make a visit possible. Note that advancement in the Palestinian-Israeli peace talks may have unpredictable implications on travel in the West Bank.

The precarious political situation makes caution and wise planning an absolute. Use common sense in order to avoid offending or arousing the suspicions of the Palestinians, who categorically do not take kindly to Israelis, or ‘amil (suspected Israeli collaborators): do not speak Hebrew, and if you consult with Israeli soldiers, make it obvious that you are doing so because you are lost. Do everything you can to stress your tourist status: carry a backpack and maps, travel in groups, even wear Hard Rock Cafe T-shirts. Refer to your surroundings as Palestine (Filastiri). Refer to Jerusalem by the Arabic Al-Quds (the Holy), or better yet, say nothing at all. You might also want to pick up a copy of Berfitz’s linguistically useless Arabic for Travellers and display it prominently. Among Arabs in the market, service taxi, or bus, it is useful to demonstrate any knowledge of Arabic.
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